The traces on the BLF drivers are pretty beefy, so unlikely to pop like a fuse like you would get with the skinny little traces on a 105C. The positive wire is the only issue, and only when the switch is on (if it's a clicky switch light - e-switch drivers have a complete circuit to the driver at all times).
WD, if the positive lead came off then yes of course the light would go out, but the switch is still on and the power is still in that lead….if it touches ground then you’ve got a direct short that will at the very least tend to fry the driver if not causing much worse reactions. Bad things like that take precious little time to escalate.
You can illustrate the difference easily just by swapping the hot 20R for a plain ol' low-drain ICR. Just that one change will give around 5.5-6A instead of... whatever the hell these things otherwise run at which I have no way to even measure accurately.
A lot of times I put a lesser cell in one of my hot rodded lights to favor the switch and take a load off the emitter. If/when I want full blown it’s easy enough to stick one of the top cells back in. Likewise, if you’re going to loan out a light you can put a protected cell in it and limit it’s output while making it safer for a “noob” to use.
.Likewise, if you’re going to loan out a light you can put a protected cell in it and limit it’s output while making it safer for a “noob” to use.
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Loaners are the failed,practice and el cheapo lights
Stack the TIR onto the 3XP board and measure it. Compare that number to the height of the stock reflector + MCPCB + insulator, and the difference is the spacer thickness.
edit: You'll also have to account for the thickness of the stock glass lens or lack thereof, depending on if you're using one or not.
well cumchair just wondering did everyone have to cut down their spacers to fit because mine wont even fit diameter wise but thanks I was just hoping someone had a measurement so I could just get to it time is of the essence
I actually used a S6 pill with a Mtn Elec spacer put it in an S2 thought it was fine till I tried to put the S2 pill in the S6 slightly bigger wouldn’t thread in—the spacers are kind of snug through the threads but usually go through—have you tried just the spacer without the pill—I do know an S3 is much smaller and shorter—hope this helps
I charged the cells for each light and took em both out a few minutes ago. The Sinner Cypreus Triple XP-L is the base image, at 2960 lumens. Mouse over for the Eagle Eye X6 MT-G2 at 3485 lumens. Took the pics back to back with the same settings. Canon G1X ISO1600, f/5.6, 1/2 sec shutter in Manual with manual focus and 2 second timer.
The Cypreus Triple XP-L is pulling over 9A from a single Efest Purple 18350. The X6 MT-G2 is pulling 7.3A from a pair of the same cells.
What Bort? Lol you didn’t say anything but the quote…
What’s the run time on that cell?! Mah? I managed to kill 1/4 of my 2000mah just showing friends today… Maybe 1.5 minutes runtime. Sucker kills a battery… I cannot imagine an 18350!
Edit: 700mah! OMG dude you must only get 2 minutes runtime!
Time is of the essence? Every host is slightly different. I’ve either cut spacers I bought from RMM to fit the hosts I had or made my own from random copper plumbing parts (or most recently, from copper bar stock). If you’re capable of building one of these on your own, you ought to be able to shave off some aluminum to make it fit properly. Using a hacksaw and a file is an awful lot less complicated than putting a light together.