Ultrafire LZZ-06 AAA light with pocket clip 0.9-4.2v

Mine didn't come with a case. Maybe because I bought a set of 3.

Even centered, there are some slight artifacts in the beam you can see on a flat wall. Replacing the XP-E with a Nichia 119 made the beam real nice and smooth. I think XP-G would be perfect for this host. Need to find a good AA driver. The 5 mode one at FT is out of stock.

I have put a piece of iPhone matte screen protector on the lens and the beam now perfectly smooth (with the protector - on the left, compared to original beam - on the right)

BTW the color isn’t that blue, it’s just cold white.

Edit: Added the picture of the case:

Cool mod and cases Pregulla. I hope I get cases on my second order as these will be gift lights.

So what was the result ? :slight_smile:
Were you able to make it single mode by removing BLK capacitor?

Haven't had a chance to return to this driver. Thanks for checking. I will report back when I do.

So far, since Post 53 above, the one that I put the Nichia 119H emitter in is cycling between High and Moonlight mode very reliably. I like the modes so much, I will not be modding the light any further. I've been EDC'ing it since I put it together and I'm really digging it. I would like to know why it's has a Moonlight (instead of a Medium and Strobe) and why it is reliably changing modes now, but I know better than to look a gift horse in the mouth.

Hopefully, experimenting with my other Jexree Mini drivers will answer some questions.

I have just received my two Jexree Mini. Both of them suffer mode switching issue. Most of the time mode is H, sometimes M, very rarely STROBE.

I have observed that mode switching works well when head is tight, tail cap is removed and negative battery terminal is shorted manually to the body.

That leads me to conclusion that most likely the problem is in bad electrical contact between head and body (fluctuating/unstable Vin while switching ON and/or OFF) causing PAM2805 start-up problems (and fallback to default mode H, because eg. Cblk is being discharged before PAM start-ups).

Any thoughts on that ?

Best wishes!

I initially wondered if that was the issue too when I talked about a potential driver seating problem early on. I thought I got comfortable that it wasn't that in my case, but I can't recall exactly how I determined that. I think it's a good idea to double check as it seems like a possibility given the design. I don't recall if I pulled the driver and soldered it to wires isolate out the host issues. I guess I should do that to make sure. I will try to do that this weekend and report back.

I didn't notice that mode switching was much better when I had the extra resistance of a DMM between the cells and the driver.

Great to hear you got one of these guys. You seem to have a strong electronics knowledge base. I just received my second order a couple days ago. Please let me know if you want me to try anything on one of mine. I sure would be nice to somehow make these drivers single or multi mode reliable.

EDIT: When I wrote the above I was rushing to head out the door and my mind was in too many places. I'm pretty sure its not just an intermittent electrical contact issue. I did most of my work with the driver out of the light and wires soldered directly to the cell contact pads. I suppose I could have been having s similar issue when touching the wires the cell I was using to test with. Seems unlikely as I work on most drivers this way and haven't had this type of issue before. Still haven't had a chance to work on one this weekend. Hopefully I will get a chance today.

I still believe that it is about the head - body contact, and maybe changing Cin will solve the problem. Could you please try to replace Cin with eg. twice or event ten times the capacity to see does it makes the difference ?

Could you also please try to reproduce what I have observed (working modes) but using something else then DMM leads ?

Is Cin the cap in bay "C1"?

I only have 1uF and 10uF caps. Should I stack a 10uF on C1?

Any suggestions on how I can do what your asking in the last request?

I am unable to tell looking at the picture, and have no opened mine yet (lack of time… btw. how to remove the driver, is it glued ?).
Cin is the one between pin 6 (battery +) and pin 2 (battery -, GND).

Stacking 10uF should do (it would double the Cin capacity).

Unscrew tailcap, tight head, use solid metal piece to short battery “-” with body, (fork will do ;))

Best wishes

OK. thanks. I'll try those things and report back. May be a couple days.

Yes, the driver is secured with some type of substance. It doesn't have a strong bond to the aluminum though. Becareful for the lip around the driver. It is very thin and bends easily.

I just received 3 of these in cases. 1 has a working strobe but none of them change mode reliably. Has anyone found a fix for this?

They’re not much good for gifts if they’re dodgy.

The Jexree Mini work only with AAA, right? No Lion like Ultrafire LZZ-06?

I had to look that one up, looks like exactly the same light, just put a 10440 in and see what happens. I give you 95% that it just works fine because all these boost drivers in all these small lights work the same, they go direct drive on a li-ion without failing. If you do blow the driver you lost 5 dollars.

Ok, try at your risk, eh. :bigsmile:
Thank you

Yep, but I will do a little prayer for you in advance :-)

Thank you very much :bigsmile:
So, what’s happen? Are you ok? :slight_smile:

It was a little Hail Mary (I'm a catholic by birth) and I believe it worked, go ahead, I have faith now

Jexree mini’s runs on both aaa and the 10440 Lithium batteries…

Prayer answered! Jee, she's fast!