Think gonna drop the sense to .04 on the MT-G2. and a bit lower on the U2. I can test on a spare until it blows, dial it back. Be nice to know the limits, one of the inductors is smaller than the other, so I was thinking that will have a little more leeway.
I've got 26mm on order. They did email me that they were out of stock so I'm not sure if they are in yet or not.
Where did you get yours from MRs? I can only see Banggood/MTN selling Maxtoch MTG2 26mm. For the aussies the Banggoods will be cheaper but slower. Some have mentioned they need a shim as well?
Banggood. I'm never in a hurry to get anything from China. I never get disappointed that way with slow delivery times.
They are like my wife whom I'm always telling to hurry up and take your time.
I’ve got my XP and XM Maxtoch 26’s coming from Mtn, already got the driver built, can’t wait for 300k!
Got my maxrouch on the way from mtn
Messing with the driver on both lights today. I found the breaking point for 3s. Sense at 0.037895 will break the emitter or driver with 3 cells on the xml.
It was running fine with 2 at that sense resistance but then I thought I’d throw in 3 for the heck of it. The light was blazin almost blue light that was kind of ridiculous for about 3 seconds and it went out. I’m not sure why but I’m going to have to get another emitter to find out what went.
The mt-g2 is pulling 4a through the tail @ 3s and heats up about right at 0.036364. I guess that light can take the ripple a bit better? It’s kind of confusing really cause the lower I went, seems 2s seemed to cap out and then have to go to 3 to see better results. 1s seems capped the whole time.
I’m happy to find the limit on this lights driver though. Anyways hope it helps if your trying to max it.
What do you guys think of this. Have to reasons for doing it like this 1. Emitter further into reflector for more flood 2. Looks cool I plan to grind out the base of the reflector and shim up somehow, possibly use 2 copper MCPCBs soldered together and then the Noctigon on top. Just an idea for now.
I think that will give you a doughnut hole beam pattern aoeu. Hope I'm wrong though.
Ah cool idea aoeu 
Yeah I got it down to the emitter like this. Just braid soldered and filed down. The reflector sits directly on the emitter without any shorting or tape, ect…
Pic taken before the clean up but you can see it’s filed down. Flux everywhere
I’m interested to see what that cutout does. I’m not too excited with the flood from this reflector either- really a thrower
What causes the doughnut beam?
Oh man doh… I checked the mtg2 because I knew it should be getting more than 4a. I took out one of the R120 and replaced it. I seem to remember it bending a bit after the solder. Well now I can’t even measure the amps at the tail lol It’s throwing some good light out
@0.036364 runs at 2 and 3 cells…
I’ve taken it apart so many times though there’s kind of some dirt around the reflector thats making it look ghetto (from screwing the reflector in and out). Oh well happy with the tint. I cant see dedoming it and making it look like pee yellow. Think done with this one. Waiting for a new emitter on the other one.
aeou, if you pull the emitter back from the reflector is creates a hole in the middle of the beam close up. Like the old maglites, they had throw but there was always the classic hole in the middle of the light.
I wouldn’t even try to dedome an mt-g2, too much risk in damaging it.
Yeah no good throw either huh. The thing costs to much for experimenting around too :bigsmile:
I heard everytime someone mods their own light in the world. Vinhs ears start burning
aoeu wrote:
What causes the doughnut beam?
Not sure. My guess is that when you go beyond the focal point of the reflector (Bottom of the parabola) the diameter of the dark area where no light hits the reflector spreads out. All I can say is that I have done what you are talking about several time and I get a doughnut hole. It probably disappears at some distance from the light, but I never checked for that.
Sorry I don't have any more info for you about it.
Regarding dedoming MT-G2. The emitter is just too damn big for me with the dome. I have dedomed every single one of mine so far. I have to admit though, they all look ugly up close with the light off. Like fellfromtree alluded to, it does create a yellow corona around the hotspot. I doesn't bother me, but some folks remove the phosphor that is surrounding the die to get rid of it and to make the hot spot cleaner and smaller.
Hm, the switch on my light doesn’t seem to work, the tail works fine but the side switch is intermediate at best.
Have you contacted Ric? Occasionally i have had the same problem with different lights and most of the time it appears to be the contacts in the switch not contacting which is usually fixed with a squirt of 5.56.
Good thing you linked that, reading it I was sure you were meaning I shoud shoot it with my AR lol.
I haven’t contacted him yet, it got here 30 minutes before I went out of town last week and I just got home today, I was probably just going to make a whole new driver board for it anyway (instead of piggybacking mine on) and use a more common switch, this one looks normal but had a 1.45mm pin spacing.
Edit: mine also has a pretty large flaw under the electroplating on the reflector, looks like a grain of sand or something but its under the plate so if I tried anything it’d just flake off. That’s what I get for buying the very last one.
am i the only one who have not received yet the y3 ?