YEZL Y3 CNQUALITYGOODS Group buy. 3 Versions. See post 274 for delivery details.

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Werner
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DBCstm wrote:
Werner, maybe not as much as you would think. I have an M8 with BLF17DD pushing 12+A from 2 18650’s powering the MT-G2.

Just yesterday I put an MT-G2 in an Eagle Eye X6 using 2 Efest Purple 18350’s that draws 7.17A at the tail and makes 3485 lumens OTF.

I’ve got 10 lights with MT-G2 emitters, passing 8A is too easy, limiting it so switches don’t fry is the bigger problem (or making the switches capable of handling 100%)

Your builds are always crazy and hard to reach.
12A on two IMR might work( for a short time) but a you have to consider that a normal 26650 breaks in a lot more on startup, especially when it’s protected and run at 7A. Check out HKJs graph for the keepower 26650 at 7A multiply the voltage by two and compare it to the forward voltage djozz has provided and you will see that it should be in a safe region. Especially if you consider that you can easy loose half a volt an the I between resistance…

Tom E
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aoeu wrote:
So previously it was mentioned the stock driver would be putting out 3a to the emitter. What would be fed to the emitter on a stock driver if I put an MTG2 in there? Is it still going to be 3a? And also, what do you guys think would be the right resistor addition to give a nice balance of heat management + runtime? I don't want any hand grenades but a nice balance of brightness and manageable heat.

I can't help you with this... I did a resistor mod before upgrading to a MT-G2 but am suspecting you'd get the 3A in the stock configuration, and the balance heat/runtime issue is all a matter of personnal preference, operating usage, etc. - impossible for me to answer that for any flashlight. 90F outdoor temps is very different from 20F outdoor temps for example, also holding it vs. standing it idle.

aoeu
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Ill start with stock and see how that fairs then cheers Smile

gadabout
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I'll be interested to see what you get aoeu.

I think I read earlier that this was a 10 Watt driver.  If you get 3A at the emitter that would make it at least 18W with a 6V MT-G2.  Maybe even a little more depending on Vf.

Are you planning on using 2 cells or 3?

Werner
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I would go directly for a resistor mod, a mtg driven at <3A isn’t so impressive at all. I have one with 3-4A and I wish I had powered it up more because it just gives 2000lm which is what you will get also from a srk style light easyly…

DB Custom
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I don’t do anything any differently than what’s available to everyone else here. I buy the pcb’s from OSHPark, populate them with components from DigiKey and use commonly available cells and wires. Richard matches my lights and goes beyond them, as does Tom E and RaceR86 and CerealKiller and ComfyChair and and and…

Some of those guys figure out how to tweak stuff and make it better. I just assemble parts. I know squat about electronics. Ask Richard, I’m begging his and Comfy’s help all the time from simple things I’ve screwed up.

I just don’t have sense enough to not put a big lights components in a small light. <—- straight from the horses mouth.

fellfromtree
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I just really like the color of the MTG2.. It gives a natural coloring to everything you shine it on. The throw is good too at .042 (R090 in parallel with the R180 and R150)

There was one guy remember reading. He said he liked it stock but I dunno what that looks like. Put the resistor in with the emitter too

edit Opps I put R90 instead of R090- fixed

aoeu
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What’s the rough calculation for current to the LED if given the source voltage (8.4) and total resistance 0.42?

fellfromtree
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Have to ask wight or someone else. I know with the u2 it should be ~6a.. I have it on a noctigon and that’s sitting on a custom pure copper shim. Using alumina to set the shim on the pill and some thermalright for the emitter. It hasn’t blown up so far, and think it’s getting as good a path without potting or modding.

Used copper braid to the emitter so I could get the reflector down into the emitter as deep as possible. That helped quite a bit too with the reflector getting contact to the emitter to absorb some of that heat. On the driver I used copper braid on the fet and ran it to the outside of the driver to transfer some of that heat to the pill. This was all mainly from wights suggestions early on when messing around. Not sure if it needs it or not. I was going to put low esr capacitors on the output too, but it seems fine without xd Also have cheap tim on the threads connecting the head to the pill.

I like both the thrower and mtg2.. They have different jobs but at .042, the mtg2 I can tell you honestly, it will heat up even and quickly and fast. The u2 heats over time and seems fine at .045. The mtg2 just can’t wait to dump it’s heat off into your hand on high. The driver and led seems to be able to handle it though- I let it run awhile.. well until I was just being a showoff Smile

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I was thinking about switching out the reverse clicky for a forward clicky, but I’m not able to get the retaining ring off since it’s so tight. Anyone else have this issue?

BLF

fellfromtree
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Get some good needlenose pliers down at sears or something. The cheap harbor freight stuff just never seem to work- for anything. Smile Snap ring pliers found don’t work too good either unless you can find them in ss.

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Mine came today after only 32 days…

 RIP  SPC Joey Riley, KIA 11/24/14. Now I am become death, the destroyer of worlds.

aoeu
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With the MTG2 swap, I ordered a 20mm MCPCB but realised there’s room for a 26mm. With the 20 it seems the terminals would interfere with the reflector. The 26 terminals would sit quite clear of the reflector and in theory provide more heat conduction.

You guys reckon just go with the 20? 26 would need a reflow and have to find a source.

Tom E
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I'm lov'n the idea of using the 26 on this light - it's made for it. It's a big flat reflector bottom, similar to the HD2010.

fellfromtree
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Think gonna drop the sense to .04 on the MT-G2. and a bit lower on the U2. I can test on a spare until it blows, dial it back. Be nice to know the limits, one of the inductors is smaller than the other, so I was thinking that will have a little more leeway.

MRsDNF
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I've got 26mm on order. They did email me that they were out of stock so I'm not sure if they are in yet or not.

 

djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

                      "My man mousehole needs one too"

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

aoeu
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Where did you get yours from MRs? I can only see Banggood/MTN selling Maxtoch MTG2 26mm. For the aussies the Banggoods will be cheaper but slower. Some have mentioned they need a shim as well?

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aoeu wrote:
Where did you get yours from MRs? I can only see Banggood/MTN selling Maxtoch MTG2 26mm. For the aussies the Banggoods will be cheaper but slower. Some have mentioned they need a shim as well?

Banggood. I'm never in a hurry to get anything from China. I never get disappointed that way with slow delivery times.Smile

They are like my wife whom I'm always telling to hurry up and take your time.

 

djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

                      "My man mousehole needs one too"

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

Cereal_killer
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I’ve got my XP and XM Maxtoch 26’s coming from Mtn, already got the driver built, can’t wait for 300k!

 RIP  SPC Joey Riley, KIA 11/24/14. Now I am become death, the destroyer of worlds.

downlinx
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Got my maxrouch on the way from mtn

BLF Community Battery Pull Thread http://budgetlightforum.com/node/32720

fellfromtree
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Messing with the driver on both lights today. I found the breaking point for 3s. Sense at 0.037895 will break the emitter or driver with 3 cells on the xml.

It was running fine with 2 at that sense resistance but then I thought I’d throw in 3 for the heck of it. The light was blazin almost blue light that was kind of ridiculous for about 3 seconds and it went out. I’m not sure why but I’m going to have to get another emitter to find out what went.

The mt-g2 is pulling 4a through the tail @ 3s and heats up about right at 0.036364. I guess that light can take the ripple a bit better? It’s kind of confusing really cause the lower I went, seems 2s seemed to cap out and then have to go to 3 to see better results. 1s seems capped the whole time.

I’m happy to find the limit on this lights driver though. Anyways hope it helps if your trying to max it.

aoeu
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What do you guys think of this. Have to reasons for doing it like this 1. Emitter further into reflector for more flood 2. Looks cool I plan to grind out the base of the reflector and shim up somehow, possibly use 2 copper MCPCBs soldered together and then the Noctigon on top. Just an idea for now.

 

http://i.imgur.com/CAzDCBXl.jpg?1

MRsDNF
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Cool

 

djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

                      "My man mousehole needs one too"

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

ImA4Wheelr
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I think that will give you a doughnut hole beam pattern aoeu.  Hope I'm wrong though.

fellfromtree
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Ah cool idea aoeu Smile Yeah I got it down to the emitter like this. Just braid soldered and filed down. The reflector sits directly on the emitter without any shorting or tape, ect..

Pic taken before the clean up but you can see it’s filed down. Flux everywhere

I’m interested to see what that cutout does. I’m not too excited with the flood from this reflector either- really a thrower

aoeu
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ImA4Wheelr wrote:

I think that will give you a doughnut hole beam pattern aoeu.  Hope I’m wrong though.

What causes the doughnut beam?

fellfromtree
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Oh man doh.. I checked the mtg2 because I knew it should be getting more than 4a. I took out one of the R120 and replaced it. I seem to remember it bending a bit after the solder. Well now I can’t even measure the amps at the tail lol It’s throwing some good light out Smile

@0.036364 runs at 2 and 3 cells..

I’ve taken it apart so many times though there’s kind of some dirt around the reflector thats making it look ghetto (from screwing the reflector in and out). Oh well happy with the tint. I cant see dedoming it and making it look like pee yellow. Think done with this one. Waiting for a new emitter on the other one.

aeou, if you pull the emitter back from the reflector is creates a hole in the middle of the beam close up. Like the old maglites, they had throw but there was always the classic hole in the middle of the light.

downlinx
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I wouldn’t even try to dedome an mt-g2, too much risk in damaging it.

BLF Community Battery Pull Thread http://budgetlightforum.com/node/32720

fellfromtree
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Yeah no good throw either huh. The thing costs to much for experimenting around too :bigsmile:

I heard everytime someone mods their own light in the world. Vinhs ears start burning

ImA4Wheelr
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aoeu wrote:

What causes the doughnut beam?

Not sure.  My guess is that when you go beyond the focal point of the reflector (Bottom of the parabola) the diameter of the dark area where no light hits the reflector spreads out.  All I can say is that I have done what you are talking about several time and I get a doughnut hole.  It probably disappears at some distance from the light, but I never checked for that.

Sorry I don't have any more info for you about it.

Regarding dedoming MT-G2.  The emitter is just too damn big for me with the dome.  I have dedomed every single one of mine so far.  I have to admit though, they all look ugly up close with the light off.  Like fellfromtree alluded to, it does create a yellow corona around the hotspot.  I doesn't bother me, but some folks remove the phosphor that is surrounding the die to get rid of it and to make the hot spot cleaner and smaller.

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