So, I'm thinking a copper replacement for the metal pill, with a MT-G2 on it and replacing the driver in the switch. Who's going to do it first? I know someone here or on CPF, (machinist), will come up with it. Would be a great mod that could be done fairly easily, with a lathe.
With cells in series 1.5 amps is 1.5 amps, it's just at a higher voltage. With fresh alkalines I guess voltage under load would be, what, 1.4v per cell? 1.4 volts x number of cells x amperage = input power in watts. The 3 cell light using those numbers would be only 6.3 watts, and that's input power, so the output side will be something like 85-90% of that.With only ~6 watts input there's no way anything even close to 4.5 amps is going to get to the LED.
The 2 cell version would have to use a boost driver so the input current would be higher to make up for the lower voltage (and also boost drivers are usually less efficient). The 3 cell very well could be a buck-boost driver, since 3 nearly flat alkalines will be below the voltage needed to run the LED at ~5 watts.
Compare the tailcap current with fresh cells to the current with nearly flat cells, that will clear up a lot about what the driver is doing. If current goes up as voltage falls, it's switching over to boost mode. If current continues to fall with voltage it's buck-only.
This one stumped me for a while, until I figured out what it’s actually for. And it isn’t flood to throw. It’s a focus.
It allows you to optimise the beam for any distance. Something a fixed focus torch can’t do.
For example, some of my C8’s and my small sun, if I shine them at a wall fairly close up you get a donut hole in the beam, this is because they are more optimised to throw. But it makes them less useful on low when you want to use them close up. Most fixed focus lights compromise and don’t quite optimise focus for throw, to then avoid the donut hole.
With the Mag you can refocus it for any distance and always avoid the donut hole. The off shots from this mean you really can the best throw the led and reflector size offer. It also allows you to make it more floody, although I don’t believe that is the prime purpose.
I edited the post. I don’t understand it, but I edited it. I think I need to stop taking amp draws, since I don’t understand it. Thanks for pointing it out.
I think it's more to focus the light with any bulb. The old bulbs with a flange had significant variation from sample to sample. I spend many hours bending flanges on PR series bulbs with long-nosed pliers to adjust the focus for each particular light. Didn't have to do that for Mags. Didn't help with off-center filaments, though.
Current goes up even for the 3 cell? That's interesting. Should mean it's able to fully drain a set of alkalines while maintaining maximum possible output all the way to the end.
I wonder if the 2 cell & 3 cell drivers are actually the same? Can you try 2 cells in the 3 cell light, and 3 in the 2 cell light?
As for why you don't understand how it works, I think that's normal as long as you try to work it out without converting your tailcap (input) numbers into watts. Do that and it makes it easy to make a meaningful comparison between two lights, no matter what they're powered by. Volts x amps = watts. 4 volts at 3 amps is exactly the same as 3 volts at 4 amps, even though the number/type of cells used to get there could be totally unrelated. By converting to watts it clears away a bunch of stuff that just adds confusion.
Oh snap! Maglite stepping up to the plate…BIG TIME!
Running XM-L/L2 correct? (Can’t watch the video’s yet)
Wonder if a descent buck driver could be build in the space of the “stock” driver but with modes like that…not on the ATtiny13 or even 25, maybe the 85 or on the PIC
Wicked cool OL…thanks!
I would think some conformal coating (nail polish or clear spraypaint) overt the components (not on the contact pads for the switch) would definitely help “weather proof” it even though maglites are pretty darn waterproof to begin with
I just got the 3 cell apart. The driver is totally different. I will take photos when I can, but it’s the same size, with totally different components and circuits.
Thanks OL for the teardown. I’m disappointed with the heatsink design: Knurling on both heatsink and tube, :Sp I’m pretty sure no knurling would have been cheaper.
The knurling may allow for slightly larger tolerances in the base tube keeping things to a reasonable cost but at the same time doing enough to get rid of whatever heat is generated.
Yeah, Im sure that added at least $15-20 to the total cost for the millisecond long CNC operation.
Thanks for the great tear-down on both lights OL. Lets hope these appear in the Lowes mega-discount annual maglite sale. Im sure Costco will probably be another contender around Christmas. Its great to finally see mag step up and deliver a decent stock light.
I’m curios, can you check if the heatsink is ferrous or non-ferrous?
The forum is so lucky to have members of this caliber, they get a brand new flashlight and the first thing they is rip it apart, and take the time to make a video, so everybody here can see what makes it tick.
