I have a Vinh K40Mvn and it is a Supbeam. The driver is slightly different than the one in our Acebeam K40M and looks like the driver from the Supbeam K50 group buy that I received. The resistor that Vinh added looks like a white zero ohm resistor.
Here’s a link to the Vinh K40M:
“K40Mvn (Must Have) | Candle Power Flashlight Forum
Note that Vinh says ”Mode 6 max brightness is intended to run on short burst only. Will get hot in about 3-4 minutes.” I can vouch that this is a true statement!
I will mod my Acebeam K40M and then probably sell the Supbeam Vinh K40Mvn…. it’s a very popular light but I don’t need two of them. :bigsmile:
Also would like to add that De-domeing the MT-G2 LED is great in this light. Really adds to throw which is super nice to have with the big refector in this K40M. And as you know the MT-G2 LED already is a great flood LED so dedoming gives the best of both worlds in this K40M.
Both of mine are dedomed and now I wish I had taken before and after beam shots.
Hi M4D M4X!
I have SupBeam K40M, and would like to make it more powerful as you described! But, my driver is a little bit different! Here is a photo:
What to do to increase the power as you have described? In my driver does not have those resistors (R082) as you have in the driver where they are you, my empty …
And the second question after removing the driver, lost 5 mode (1900lumen), it is necessary to watch the fifth (in a circle), a three-legged resistor, right?
Thank you! Sorry for my english (google translate)
Hi Asian. I think the voltage sense resistors are on the other side (bottom) of your driver. I'm guessing you driver will be similar to the drivers in the TN31's. Need a picture to know. Or you could search for "TN31 mod".
Never got around to post how I did my mod, but here are some old pictures.
The driver was a PITA to get out, otherwise this mod would have gone quick and smooth. I don't have problems with sealed screws, but on my light they must have combined sealed screws with something that looks like blue loctite (I drilled out the screw head). I got my light properly assembled again after some work, and replacing a screw.
2xR100 was added.
Stock current on all modes:
0,00
0,05
0,52
1,38
2,58
4,75A stepdown to 4,18
After mod (2xR100 added)
2xR100
0,00
0,05
2,18
4,01
7,4 (Faling quickly and stepdown to 6,15A)
K40M stock emitter amp
4,86 startup
4,77 10 sec
4,71 30 sec
4,66 1 min
4,18 1 min 10 sec ( after stepdown)
4,16 2 min
4,14 2 min 30 sec
4,12 3 min 30 sec
4,11 4 min 30 sec
4,10 5 min
Modded:
7,1 10 sec
6,94 30 sec
6,81 1 min
6,15 1 sec 15 ( after stepdown)
6,14 1min 30 sec
6,09 2 min
6,06 2 min 30 sec
6,02 3 min
5,99 3 min 30
5,97 4 min - (59degree C, stopped test. Very similar behavior to stock, just hotter.)
Sorry if a messed up a number or two, these were just from my quick notes.
The light now got stupid hot around the control ring if its used on the highest setting. Heat transfer to the head is not that great (not unusual with this type of design). Not sure If ill recommend to push it that far since its well driven as a stock light. In all honestly, this light is so well driven stock, that modding may not be worth it.
I have added output numbers in the bonus section of my comparison thread (easy to compare with stock and other lights). Might end up adding more beamshots in the future. Might include impressions after more long term use in comparison to the other lights in that thread as well.. Time will tell.. :p