Somehow I lost track of it in the process, just stumbled over it through the oshpark thread.
This is like a one-that-fits-all driver, including the BLF add-ons off-time memory and zener mod.
Thanks for that one.
Errr… would you mind sharing the brd-file if you happen to have one?
I need that driver slightly larger (24mm) and would adapt it. But I have no software to alter the gerber files, just Eagle here.
Tbh, I’m thinkin’ of some other minor tweak 0:) (12x 7135 suits me well, that might give room for a larger spring base to fit IOS type A, B and D)
Thanks Cereal_killer. I’m still really not “in the saddle” at the moment. I’m really just treading water waiting to get motivated ;). I was losing steam and right as I got my new scope and a box of supplies from Mouser I just stalled completely. :( Hopefully something will click in my head pretty soon and I’ll sit down and get a 20mm buck driver knocked out, verify that it works as expected w/ the Attiny installed, release that, and then refocus on the 17mm stuff. EDIT: having spares on hand is a key part of my motivation process, and I’ve got that in spades. I think I bought 10x worth of parts from Mouser plus a few alternative parts. And I think I’ve got 20 of those QX5241 chips on hand, so I’m ready to fry some stuff as soon as I can get that switch flipped in my brain.
I’m amazed at what several of the guys on this forum are doing with designing and building all these custom drivers! I’m going to need a driver for one of the projects I’m working on, but I don’t know what size or even shape it will be. But, anyway, this one looks awesome! Great job, wight!
I hear that Alex, unfourtinately I don’t have the option to take a break with how my business has evolved…
Btw I have a new 2-4 cell buck driver based on the MAX16824 chip. Output is selectable to around 8A (for 3-9v emitters/strings) via sense resistor. PIC controlled but it could be easily adapted to AVR (with the addition of a vdivide circuit for batt monitoring and a few cap changes). Very stable operation with the inducer I selected, much easier on 3v emitters than the HX-1175b’s at high currents and with pic Very low component count so cheap to produce. I’m working on a larger one initially, hopefully I can get it to a 20mm single board (not sure tho) or a 17mm double stack <12mm tall.
I think I might get testosterone shots or something…so dang demotivated…
I need someone to put on a DI hat and yell at me to get my butt moving as of late…sux, so tired, so moody, so sluggish and unmovtivated…ARRRRGH
I also am eagerly awaiting the 20mm buck driver, I have one of those 3x “C” Defiant flashlights, could definitely use a good driver and stack some 26650’s w/ spacer in the badboy
IIRC 26650’s wont fit in a DST, and boring it removes the tail threads. I think the normal solution is to permanently attach the tail after that and load the batteries from the front of the tube?
So it’s taken me a while to post this, but another member pointed out a mistake. A careful examination shows that the 7135-A markings are clearly wrong in v016. At least one 7135 in both the “A” and “B” groups is required for the driver to function, I had the markings for A mixed up for two components. I have updated a few other things as well.
Changes:
Updated 7135-A silkscreen to reflect actual “A” positions.
Updated silkscreen with boring name: “A22-7135”. Added silkscreen for “ZENER” and “OTC”. Added polarity markings for D1.
Moved my marking from top to bottom.
Changed Zener to correct (more narrow) SOD-123 footprint rather than an incorrect wide (SMA?) footprint.
Revised several traces and vias to correct design rule violations!
Voltage divider now feeds directly from Vbat, please switch to 22k resistor or adjust your LVP values in firmware.
Added an emergency escape route for those swapping over a Nanjg-105c. There is a scrapable solder jumper to allow the use of a Nanjg-105c diode and 19.1k resistor.
Fixed all the mistakes I made while doing the above stuff.
Wouldn’t you be able to squeeze the off time cap in to the left under LED+ with a little redesign? Flashing might be difficult with the off time cap in the way?
I measured in Eagle, the off time cap should not block the clip. I have >8mm of vertical clearance overall for the clip. The top left 7135 and the Zener are both a little closer than I would like, but I’m pretty sure a stock Pomona clip will fit. A shaved Pomona clip should fit for sure (stock they are very wide compared to the actual chip, 1.4mm wider IIRC).
> moody, so sluggish and unmovtivated…
Winter blues?
I’ve found cet.org has a good self-evaluation for timing bright lights; and a $25 dawn simulator is a great help in our household
But back on this board, is CK or anyone else building them?
I melted the dome off a Nichia-on-Noctigon (my first mod of an F13) after less than 20 minutes’ total use, and I’ve been wondering whether it was just cooked and a driver swap would help before I replace that.
