22mm 16x 7135 driver for F13 flashlights - [released]

Welcome back wight.

Glad you like it, PM sent.

Thanks Cereal_killer. I’m still really not “in the saddle” at the moment. I’m really just treading water waiting to get motivated ;). I was losing steam and right as I got my new scope and a box of supplies from Mouser I just stalled completely. :( Hopefully something will click in my head pretty soon and I’ll sit down and get a 20mm buck driver knocked out, verify that it works as expected w/ the Attiny installed, release that, and then refocus on the 17mm stuff. EDIT: having spares on hand is a key part of my motivation process, and I’ve got that in spades. I think I bought 10x worth of parts from Mouser plus a few alternative parts. And I think I’ve got 20 of those QX5241 chips on hand, so I’m ready to fry some stuff as soon as I can get that switch flipped in my brain.

Does 22AWG fit?

Sorry Gj, I don’t have any 22AWG. Where are you buying 22AWG?

http://www.fasttech.com/products/1012/10007059/1575300

http://www.fasttech.com/product/1575301-22awg-soft-silicone-wire-1m

http://intl-outdoor.com/22-awg-highly-flexible-silicone-copper-wire-p-688.html

I got the IOS wire.

I’m amazed at what several of the guys on this forum are doing with designing and building all these custom drivers! I’m going to need a driver for one of the projects I’m working on, but I don’t know what size or even shape it will be. But, anyway, this one looks awesome! Great job, wight!

wight - this is awesome btw... A 20 mm AtTiny based buck would be pretty awsome too!

I hear that Alex, unfourtinately I don’t have the option to take a break with how my business has evolved…

Btw I have a new 2-4 cell buck driver based on the MAX16824 chip. Output is selectable to around 8A (for 3-9v emitters/strings) via sense resistor. PIC controlled but it could be easily adapted to AVR (with the addition of a vdivide circuit for batt monitoring and a few cap changes). Very stable operation with the inducer I selected, much easier on 3v emitters than the HX-1175b’s at high currents and with pic Very low component count so cheap to produce. I’m working on a larger one initially, hopefully I can get it to a 20mm single board (not sure tho) or a 17mm double stack <12mm tall.

When you do…tell me how you did it!

I think I might get testosterone shots or something…so dang demotivated…

I need someone to put on a DI hat and yell at me to get my butt moving as of late…sux, so tired, so moody, so sluggish and unmovtivated…ARRRRGH

I also am eagerly awaiting the 20mm buck driver, I have one of those 3x “C” Defiant flashlights, could definitely use a good driver and stack some 26650’s w/ spacer in the badboy :slight_smile:

Will do ;-).

DI hat?

IIRC 26650’s wont fit in a DST, and boring it removes the tail threads. I think the normal solution is to permanently attach the tail after that and load the batteries from the front of the tube?

DI = drill instructor.

Wight I’m searching for your post on calculating voltage divide resistors for multi-cell Zener drivers….

Edit:’4wheelr found it - link below.

Here you go. Wight just linked me to it yesterday.

So it’s taken me a while to post this, but another member pointed out a mistake. A careful examination shows that the 7135-A markings are clearly wrong in v016. At least one 7135 in both the “A” and “B” groups is required for the driver to function, I had the markings for A mixed up for two components. I have updated a few other things as well.

Changes:

  • Updated 7135-A silkscreen to reflect actual “A” positions.
  • Updated silkscreen with boring name: “A22-7135”. Added silkscreen for “ZENER” and “OTC”. Added polarity markings for D1.
  • Moved my marking from top to bottom.
  • Changed Zener to correct (more narrow) SOD-123 footprint rather than an incorrect wide (SMA?) footprint.
  • Revised several traces and vias to correct design rule violations!
  • Voltage divider now feeds directly from Vbat, please switch to 22k resistor or adjust your LVP values in firmware.
  • Added an emergency escape route for those swapping over a Nanjg-105c. There is a scrapable solder jumper to allow the use of a Nanjg-105c diode and 19.1k resistor.
  • Fixed all the mistakes I made while doing the above stuff. :wink:

https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/FQYMvlPm

Very nice i just ordered a few boards to try out my new hot air re-flow station

And now I see for some reason I never marked that the 7135 next to R2 must be populated for LVP to work? Ugh! Well now we know. :~

Thanks nitro!

Wouldn’t you be able to squeeze the off time cap in to the left under LED+ with a little redesign? Flashing might be difficult with the off time cap in the way?

I measured in Eagle, the off time cap should not block the clip. I have >8mm of vertical clearance overall for the clip. The top left 7135 and the Zener are both a little closer than I would like, but I’m pretty sure a stock Pomona clip will fit. A shaved Pomona clip should fit for sure (stock they are very wide compared to the actual chip, 1.4mm wider IIRC).

> moody, so sluggish and unmovtivated…
Winter blues?
I’ve found cet.org has a good self-evaluation for timing bright lights; and a $25 dawn simulator is a great help in our household

But back on this board, is CK or anyone else building them?
I melted the dome off a Nichia-on-Noctigon (my first mod of an F13) after less than 20 minutes’ total use, and I’ve been wondering whether it was just cooked and a driver swap would help before I replace that.

I’ve been thinking of doing a few to sell.

I dont have the newest version (wight’s pretty quick at constantly pumping out new revisions of all his stuff, always tinkering) but I have some older one’s. If you have an immediate need it may be faster to get some from him (if he’s got the boards on hand) but you’ve always been a good customer of mine sir, if you need one I can order the new boards today (I think it’s always best to use the newest version’s available so I’d rather do that than sell you an older one) just let me know if you want to go that route and I’ll get them ordered now.