Hhmm - I know the OSHPark thread points to this discussion thread for the Zener version but I have no experience with them, none on order either. "-Z" I'm guessing means Zener mod? No idea what version you got there - is the current one, Rev 2? There's a ton of resistors on that board you got there. It looks like an older design though - the R4 and R5 should not be there anymore, and the cap should be between Batt + and ground now - that board has the cap in the old position.
If I had this board, I'd trace all components to see how it's wired, and then the resistors will make sense -- I think??
Sorry - hope someone else can chime in. Probably buried somewhere in the big OSHPark thread, but would take me hours to find something - wish there was a search capability in a thread...
E-switch goes to MCU pin 3, directly to the pin not to the pad. Just like in CK’s pic you linked.
And yes, you have to use the “stars” on the MCU side. Which means you have to pull the driver if you want to change something. 4 is for High to Low mode order. 2 is to pin 5 for moon mode. 3 is for the e-switch, which of course must be on the pin itself. Not sure what the pad for star 3 is supposed to be for.
Switch goes to MCU pin 2 unless it's been changed in the firmware. Momentary version of STAR has no options to set via grounding pins & doesn't use the off-time capacitor so that's irrelevant. Only the clicky versions ground the pins to set options*.
* ToyKeeper's SRK version uses pin 3 to reverse the mode order, I don't recall seeing any other momentary versions that use them to set options.
And every e-switch light I’ve put a BLF17DD in works with it on pin 3. My TK-61 has both e-switches hooked to pin 3 with the BLF board master to an HX1175b1. My Couri’s, both of em, pin 3. My little magnetic base light, pin 3 as well as it’s 3 siblings. And every other light I have with e-switches. Was frustrating figuring that out, when the C file showed what you posted above.
If it works on pin 3, someone has changed it. All mine that are flashed with code as shown above work only with the switch on pin 2.
The Roche F6DD driver uses the same pin for the switch and works with the same firmware builds. That one has indicator LEDs attached to pins 3 & 5. Switch goes to pin 2 unless someone has deliberately changed it in the firmware.
Works like that with the original untouched 'SRK_no_ramp_1.0.c'
If it has the switch pin defined as PB3, the switch goes to pin 2. It's not possible for it to work attached to pin 3 unless that line has been changed to read PB4.
I think maybe you're mixing two things here. If you're using the momentary switch firmware, the 'stars' are not used, there are no options for them to change (they are defined, but nothing is assigned to them). Only the clicky firmware in a light with a clicky switch has anything assigned for the pins to do. The momentary firmware won't work in a clicky light and the clicky firmware won't work in a momentary light. Forget about stars/grounding pins since you've got the momentary version there.
Ah- well wired up the eswitch to pin 3 and nothing changed with the modes on click. It works with the tail switch using on/off though. I was going to try pin 2 but thought check back here. I’ll mess with it some more. So you guys probably flash in your own firmware I take it for the eswitch to work or it should work with pin 2? I’ll give it a shot or maybe I’ll get some sleep.
Pardon my ignorance, but I don’t see a specification for this driver, just list of changes in the first post, but not the total spec, features, etc… is it out there somewhere?
The firmware is totally different between the two switch types, they are not interchangeable. To work with a momentary switch it must have been flashed by somebody with the momentary switch firmware.
It's a homebrew deal. Combination of the best parts of the Nanjg 105C (easy to reflash, lots of firmware versions available, parts very easy to get) and the best parts of the East-092 (direct drive with a super-low-resistance FET).
I'm with you vex! I'd love to make these drivers but I'm afraid to dive into the many pages of history to find out which resistor goes where and why and which resisors have become obsolete, so which pads are to be ignored in which board versions, etc. And I was even around following the whole story! TomE started this thread to solve this (thanks Tom), but still it has not become really straightforward for us 'electronically challenged' folks.
About your questions:
-it is a direct driver so the current in your flashlight has nothing to do with the driver, the current is a result of battery, led and various resistances in the flashlight. The only thing the driver does is switching on and off, to introduce pwm to get lower modes and when using an electronic switch to switch the flashlight on and off.
-I am curious about the current best FET as well, since the great Vishay FET has gone out of production.
-the zener diode is used in a 2xli-ion (8.4V) set-up to reduce the voltage for the MCU that can not handle more than 5.5V, e.g. a MT-G2 on a copper board performs great direct drive on two cells.
so which FET should be used then if the vishay is out production?
yep, there are fantastic projects on this forum, really fantastic open projects but they lack just 1% more effort, to keep all features and instructions on one place, i.e. in the first post, such as
features
specifications
known issues
bill of material
assembly instructions
known issues/bugs
changes list / release notes
credits
3rd party sw/hw used
I work in a corporation so we are drilled from day one to pay attention to keeping documentation in shape. I’m very motivated to do stuff but the info is scattered around, and it’s quite inefficient having to go through all the posts in a thread to gather all necessary info.
Yes, the problem is of course that this is all hobby, we're doing it for fun, and however useful it is, maintaining documentation is a pretty boring thing to do...
Absolutely, the info is free and it’s all for fun so there’s little incentive to maintain the first post with needed info, i’m just saying: for newbies on this forum it can be frustrating the amount of info/posts you need to chew through to get the info you need about a project. Of course when you’re a veteran you already know everything there is to know and you probably don’t even notice the missing info.
