Nice mod and wonderful to see such a writeup. Thank you very much :-)
Very nice mod FmC!
I thought I am the only one getting this āmoonlight modeā when it is off, so is it really normal? I did the same thing like you by bridging the sense resistor and I couldnāt get rid of this annoying āmoonlight modeā when it is supposed to be completely off! I reflowed the LED a few times (wasted a few drops of my AS5 as well ) and even have changed it into a new XM-L2 just hoping to solve this issue but I still failed. It could be my soldering skill is poor but I have inspected every connection as carefully as I could but I didnāt notice anything strange though.
I see it as an issueā¦ I even have created a thread here looking for opinions. Does anyone else have this issue? I couldnāt find other people experiencing this yet.
Best mod I can think of for the Corui, and very smooth work on the tail switch, well thought out! And you would think that the 32mm Noctigon should be wide enough to provide clearance for any reflector, but no.., LOL
bibihang, if I remember correctly there was some talk about some drivers not liking the sense resistor completely bridged in that it messed with the PWM to the extent that it wouldnāt completely shut off, not recognizing the off level through the e-switch. There needs to be some resistance for the driver to recognize off.
Great mod!
Back when I did my light my approach to the lack of lockout was very similar to what I did in the "retard light". I made twisty "switch".
Copper plates soldered to the battery circuit board and fujick under (added some extra JBweld when I did the tailcap).
I also added lots of grease to the threads after it was done.
Difference between good contact and complete lockout is half a turn. :)
Nice job FmC!
Threads like this annoy me though I ordered my Courui 10 days ago and its not fair that everyone else is playing with their lights and I dont have oneā¦
Iām going off to stamp my foot and sulk now.
Hopback, Iāve had both of mine for several months or longer.
Nice work on the reflector too. That looks solid
Nice mod.
Nice pics .
Nice explanation .
Thanks for sharing .
Is there not enough āmeatā in that bit of the reflector just to file off enough to clear the solder pads?
I had to do this to a DX 73mm reflector and I was surprised how thick the alu was on that bottom edge.
Thanks again all.
I canāt take any credit for the switch idea - Ouchyfoot used one in that location for his series mod. Itās as if it was āmeant to beā thereā¦
@ Hopback; Yes, there is enough meat at the corner of the reflector to file it for clerance. I done that as well, but did not have a picture of it.
@ bibihang; Iām sure I read of otherās having the same issue (besides you) with the LED staying on, so I was expecting it to happen.
@ DBCstm; Where did you get the lens from? Iām also planning an XML version when my other Courui arrives, but Iāll be sticking a BLF DD in there
I have BLF17DDās piggybacked into both of mine. The MT-G2 one is using 6 Efest Purple 18350ās, that one has the switch pcb raised to allow room for the double cells in each bay, so it wonāt take a switch.
Iāve got the reversing UI on both of em such that Turbo can be reached from off as easy as Moon. Being able to turn it off from the tail on my XM-L2 version is very nice, really have no clue why I didnāt think of thatā¦
I used an UCLp from flashlightlens.com, the best AR lens in the business. Their UCL glass lens is hands down the highest transmission lens out there, but not available in the size for the Courui D01. Crazy as it sounds, thereās a massive jump in throw for the money spent. From 341.5Kcd to 369.25Kcd by swapping the lens.
97 yds to the red oil drum. Taken with my standard settings from the Canon G1Xā¦ISO1600, f/5.6, 1/2 second exp., manual mode, manual focus, 2 second timer.
same settings, except f/5.8 and 610 yards to the white barnā¦ if you click on the picture and look at it full size, the trees behind the barn are 744 yds away. Not sure if the white metal building at 968 yds shows through the trees in this shot. (slightly right of the barn and of course behind the trees, only slightly visible as some white above the barn and just left of the flag pole. This is more visible in the winter when thereās no leaves on the trees.)
Great job FmC! Still trying to decide what I want to do with mine.
-Garry
Excellent work and information FmC. Think you may eventually take this baby up to 5+ amps? You certainly have everything in place (32mm copper DTP mcpcb, etc).
Very nice!
FmC, I must be missing something then, thank you for pointing out.
DBCstm, thanks for your explanation. I did read that by bridging the sense resistor just like that could affect the modes and the on/off operation, but I thought that is just for buck driver. I donāt think Courui in this case is having buck/boost driver since it is three batteries in parallel powering a single XM-L2, though the big torroid on it still makes me wonder what is it for actually.
Thanks Dale, I might have to check out those lenses for a few of my lightsā¦
@ ImA4Wheelr, Itās gotta be close to 5a to the LED as it is, which is pretty much in the sweet spot for XP-G2 according to djozzās testing work. & I like the basic UI in a light of this type, with the stock driver.
I got some XP-Lās in the mail today, so I think one of those will end up in my other Courui when it arrives, along with a BLF DD driver for a Big Brother version
Your mods look perfect for someone looking to make a true budget thrower.
Does anyone know if replacing the R200 with an R10 would provide enough resistance so no āmoonlight problemā
but still give close to maximum output with the stock driver?
It is probably going to be trial & error to find the lowest resistor value that maintains an āoffā mode. Maybe someone will find out what that value is & post.
Iāve got a theory about the āmoonlightā glow, but donāt have the parts to test my theoryā¦.
Could someone solder a 10k resistor from the gate of the mosfet to the ground? This might act as a pull-down resistor and turn the mosfet off fully.