I will finish OP and open separate selling thread,probably today.
They are manual assembled,but solder paste is applied with stainless steel stencil,which makes huge difference,solder joints look perfect to me,even 0402 aren't problem.
One small note on pcbs:manufacturer did a little error on bottom solder mask layer(red stuff),half of solder "moon" is covered,but it's easy fix,just scrap that part with scalpel or knife until you see copper,so you can bridge it with solder(only necessary if you want disable moonlight and/or enable timer on high).
I want to thank RaceR86(and Grumpy Cat) and TomE for ramping UI suggestions,now it's based on those suggestions and feels much much better,and also RaceR86,TomE,djozz and HKJ for extensive giveaway-prototype testing and suggestions.
Can you recommend a European / German shop to buy sense resistors? I’d like to resistor mod one of the drivers to ~3A for a smaller light and will need the resistor. Somehow these larger, higher wattage sense resistors play hard-to-get.
Big distributors like Mouser,Digikey,Farnell and their local distributors usually have them. Good thing you reminded me,i will have range of those resistors in next batch,but I can do that for you in software for now,just tell me exact current on max. and do you also want other modes to be scaled down.
LED lights up in last stored mode,so just like there is no e-switch at all, they work independently,when you change modes with e-switch,modes aren't stored in EEPROM.
Ok, thx.
hope they sell in quantities I need
I’ll take a look.
No need to adjust, I’m perfectly happy with the mode spacing.
5000-1000-100-10 makes a good powerful light and 3000-600-60-6 makes a perfect allrounder. Especially when low-low can be tweaked down a bit. So I just take it as it is and try to get some R016 or R018 sense resistor.
One of disadvantage of software scaling is,that moonlight can't go lower than ~10mA.Another disadvantage of software change is that resolution remains the same (~5mA),for example in ramping UI minimum step equals resolution.
But if you change sense resistor,both moonlight and resolution are scaled down properly;that's why I recommend sense resistor adjust.
The extensive amount of work you've done on this is greatly appreciated. Just ordered 4 and will more than likely set up each one differently. The tips and tricks section is also a great idea, knowing we will be utilizing these in so many various ways. ;)
Very eagerly anticipating putting these to work. :) Now for the right light selection...
Wish it were 10mm for my Texas Poker, lol Oh well, can't have everything All the time. :bigsmile:
One question though, can it be left in stock form to run a quad? I have a quad XP-L recently built on a modified qlite running 3.77A that makes 1600 lumens and it's a nice range for many uses. So I'm considering this driver for it's lower output efficiencies and perhaps even at less than 5A output. Would this cause issues?
Thanks again, really excited to put these in action.
I'll probably stick to the recommended single emitter, at least to begin with. I have an L2m shorty with a copper P-60 module from mattaus that has an XP-G2 in it. This driver will give it the absolute maximum efficiency and make it a fantastic little pocket light. The 18350 isn't, of course, ideal for run times when using a 5A max setting but a light like this seldom really needs the top end anyway. Lower modes (1 and 2) would be utilized and the increased run times would be very beneficial.
Also thinking about utilizing this driver with an MT-G2 and additional heat sinking applied but left in 5A form for one of Sinner's Ti lights that uses an 18650. These have copper pills already so that's a plus right off the top. Would have to look at this application deeper and probably wait for some feedback from the electrically minded folks here before attempting that one. Need to do some research on just how to best apply heat sinking for max gains while maintaining electrical separation.
Remembered the 2 cell series necessity, never mind.
Send a couple to Gene and let him play around with them and experiment. I’d love to see some of these in the new Malkoff 3 mode lights! I hate PWM noise.
I know using triple XM-L with resistor stacking for 5A+ would generate too much heat, but what about running stock 5A for 1 minute at a time or enabling 90s timer? I want to build a triple xpl tri-edc cypreus for a friend and want to try something other than BLFDD this time.