LED lights up in last stored mode,so just like there is no e-switch at all, they work independently,when you change modes with e-switch,modes aren't stored in EEPROM.
Theoretically you can (by stacking resistors)-see expander boards example.
Turbo is removed because current was just little a bit higher than 5A with xm-l2,too little difference to notice.
Is there any efficiency differences between resistor modded and software current limiting?
No.
Thanks.
Ok, thx.
hope they sell in quantities I need 
I’ll take a look.
No need to adjust, I’m perfectly happy with the mode spacing.
5000-1000-100-10 makes a good powerful light and 3000-600-60-6 makes a perfect allrounder. Especially when low-low can be tweaked down a bit. So I just take it as it is and try to get some R016 or R018 sense resistor.
One of disadvantage of software scaling is,that moonlight can't go lower than ~10mA.Another disadvantage of software change is that resolution remains the same (~5mA),for example in ramping UI minimum step equals resolution.
But if you change sense resistor,both moonlight and resolution are scaled down properly;that's why I recommend sense resistor adjust.
The extensive amount of work you've done on this is greatly appreciated. Just ordered 4 and will more than likely set up each one differently. The tips and tricks section is also a great idea, knowing we will be utilizing these in so many various ways. ;)
Very eagerly anticipating putting these to work. :) Now for the right light selection...
Wish it were 10mm for my Texas Poker, lol Oh well, can't have everything All the time. :bigsmile:
One question though, can it be left in stock form to run a quad? I have a quad XP-L recently built on a modified qlite running 3.77A that makes 1600 lumens and it's a nice range for many uses. So I'm considering this driver for it's lower output efficiencies and perhaps even at less than 5A output. Would this cause issues?
Thanks again, really excited to put these in action.
Hi Dale, in the OP it says that the voltage in a quad is so low that without cooling the driver has to burn too much power.
Come to think of it, this driver, a quad xpl and a LiFepo-battery might make for a very efficient light with moderate output.
I'll probably stick to the recommended single emitter, at least to begin with. I have an L2m shorty with a copper P-60 module from mattaus that has an XP-G2 in it. This driver will give it the absolute maximum efficiency and make it a fantastic little pocket light. The 18350 isn't, of course, ideal for run times when using a 5A max setting but a light like this seldom really needs the top end anyway. Lower modes (1 and 2) would be utilized and the increased run times would be very beneficial.
Also thinking about utilizing this driver with an MT-G2 and additional heat sinking applied but left in 5A form for one of Sinner's Ti lights that uses an 18650. These have copper pills already so that's a plus right off the top. Would have to look at this application deeper and probably wait for some feedback from the electrically minded folks here before attempting that one. Need to do some research on just how to best apply heat sinking for max gains while maintaining electrical separation.
Remembered the 2 cell series necessity, never mind.
Send a couple to Gene and let him play around with them and experiment. 
I’d love to see some of these in the new Malkoff 3 mode lights! I hate PWM noise.
I know using triple XM-L with resistor stacking for 5A+ would generate too much heat, but what about running stock 5A for 1 minute at a time or enabling 90s timer? I want to build a triple xpl tri-edc cypreus for a friend and want to try something other than BLFDD this time.
What a nice looking neat red driver unfortunately 15 bucks is more than I can justify paying for a driver but I still want one 
don’t know where would I use ti ( maybe HD2010! or Xintd). Maybe I’ll wait for a giveaway 
I’m hoping some USA buyers will be willing to resell. I can use 1 but 3 is a budget gouge.
Or maybe Mtn Electronics can stock these?
Definitely keeping an eye on developments with this really different offering.
Hello, Led4power.
If I only have mechanical switch, can’t I use 3 UIs?
Until today, I knew your UI can accept mechanical switch.
Please tell me about it. it is very important things to buy them.
And could you adjust special mode for mechanical switch if I want it?
How much will it cost?
thanks
Kim.
I have ordered 4 but might not need them all. To minimize postage delays it might be best to contact someone local to your area to share. I’m in Ca.
That's correct, 3UIs are for e-switch only.For now I don't offer custom settings,maybe later.
Oops. I misunderstood.
Please offer custom settings for later.
Thanks
Kim.
Opposite question from shrike3612,do the 3 ui's work with just one electronic switch(Fandyfire aka Solarstorm K2)or would I have to twist the head/body junction to lockout.Threads are anodised.Thanks
Not trying to answer it, but wish to express my take on this so I can be corrected in order to better understand the driver... the driver will work in a normal fashion when used with a clicky switch, ie: the normal tail switch. It will also work the same with an e-switch engaged and the e-switch will have a choice of the way it functions, accessed via the 10 second press. This will not affect the tail switch, if present. The way I see it, when using an e-switch there will be a parasitic drain but I don't know to what extent, so a lockout would be necessary to completely shut off the driver. The tail switch will, as usual, completely render the driver off when used.
Again, only attempting to show my understanding of the driver so that I as well as others may be enlightened if this is correct or incorrect.
Anticipating confirmation or correction. :)