the SSR is just that, an SST with a star stuck to it.
its just ANOTHER heat sinking issue. every time you change mediums for heatsinking you lose some of that ability.
why put a star inbetween the led and your main heat sink? it makes no sense from an engineering stand point. stars are designed for newbie modders to easily play with. Thats why britelite doesnt engineer the heat sink to take a star.
by creating a heat sink to go DIRECTLY onto the led itself, you gain better thermal heat sinking properties. just that simple.
so as you said, in your question, the transfer from the emitter to the star to the block is inferior to the transfer from the emitter to the block
its better to have the custom milled aluminum designed specific for the LED. thats why their p7 version also is JUST for the emitter.
its a MUCH better design than a block that takes a star.
HOWEVER, it is difficult on some LEDs to solder the leads (seems its easier on the SST smd) so that is why cree leds (q5, p4, r5 etc) MUST have some sort of star. SMD leds are just not easy for the average modder.
while the sst-90 and sst-50 are SMD, their leads are apparently (have yet to get one) easier to solder wires to.
we shall see :-)
a 9amp LED flashlight is in order. once i finish my HID retro flashlight :-D
why put a star inbetween the led and your main heat sink? it makes no sense from an engineering stand point. stars are designed for newbie modders to easily play with.
Stars are designed for people without need for specialized form factor or don't have surface mount equipment, because all the emitters themselves are surface mount. In comparison, you're going to be gluing two small squares with at max 30w going through it to each other, right next to a couple wires you need to align and solder perfectly with 10A going.
In this instance, the bottom of the sst is not going to be finished for mating with the top of the HS post, and I can assure you that Arctic Silver in the best case is worse than solder. AMD tried this for a bit by not bonding a conducting plate to the top of their semi's epoxied and polished top and people still messed up processors even with a decent mechanical mounting solution and support pads on top of that. On the positive side, these emitters go up to 150degC and only lose 25% of output, and you don't have to have to worry much about lifetime before failure for a flashlight. I can pretty much guarentee many of those homemade lights with this slug are >100deg junction temp.
For heatsinking requirements, I suggest you take a look at ~30w TDP cpus and approximate size needed for good heat control. Make note that those include an active fan, which is about an order of magnitude more effective than without. Luminus's own dev kits include a CPU HS/Fan like solution for testing out their devices.
Of course, YMMV, you could bequite good at handicraft.
Here are couple links I just googled to what Luminus themselves sell to people testing out their devices (the cheapest kit is ~150, and they're typically $300+):
Given that these homegrown bits we make are similar to prototypes, it's probably best to start with something closer to those than whatever the cpf clowns come up with :) But anyway, it's just a hobby, not serious bidness.
the problem with those is that I think even after you fit them in you have to soldier them to the switch. LT sell the 2x 18650 trustfire bodies for them for cheap, so that may be the better route to take.
Please introduce yourself first before trying to sell products
If you are a seller, please say "I am a seller." Pretending that you are a pleased customer when you are actually a seller is deceptive and belittling.
Please don't hijack other threads to sell your product.
I'll leave your post to the other BLF users' discretion. I won't promise that they won't get your post deleted or your account blocked.
Well, I was thinking about the same. I have even bought those thread-locking 1$ eBay lights and I feel even those are worth the $.
If this works as I expect: runs low current, does 10h on fresh cells, gives 80+lumens, has somekind of beam (got some diffuser coming anyway to clean it up), has threads to open close, aluminum thick enough not to crumble when I grab it - I´m happy. :)
I can also smell, this could be modded easily but let´s see....