What blade did you EDC today?

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strayz
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Hey Dale,

Have ya played with one of these just yet?

http://www.hogueknives.com/pages/ex-04-specifications.php

I am rather intrigued with it. might end up on my buy list before getting a strider knife.

edited to ad a better link to the knife. Smile

8steve88
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isti242 wrote:
The ball bearing pivot system makes it addictive Smile

Flipper already machined for tritium vials I see. Smile
Another very hard to resist knife.

Freman
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The MG DAMM is a nice looking knife. In size and configuration it seems to be on par with the ZT 0560, although I don’t know if N690 is comparable with Elmax. I’ve read it’s close to VG-10, and that’s a good steel so assuming they have a good heat treatment that would be excellent value for money at the $60-$90 you’d pay for it.

isti242
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8steve88 wrote:
Flipper already machined for tritium vials I see. Smile Another very hard to resist knife.

I’m looking for a cheap source for tritium vials. It’s not easy to find them in such a small size.

isti242
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Freman wrote:
The MG DAMM is a nice looking knife. In size and configuration it seems to be on par with the ZT 0560, although I don’t know if N690 is comparable with Elmax. I’ve read it’s close to VG-10, and that’s a good steel so assuming they have a good heat treatment that would be excellent value for money at the $60-$90 you’d pay for it.

Based on two months of use the N690 blade seems very similar to my other VG-10 blades (Spyderco Endura) regarding edge retention and sharpening.

Dale
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strayz wrote:
Hey Dale,

Have ya played with one of these just yet?

http://www.hogueknives.com/pages/ex-04-specifications.php

I am rather intrigued with it. might end up on my buy list before getting a strider knife.

edited to ad a better link to the knife. Smile

Not yet, I had the EX-03.. Hogue is putting out some great knives.

retiro675
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isti242 wrote:
8steve88 wrote:
Flipper already machined for tritium vials I see. Smile Another very hard to resist knife.

I’m looking for a cheap source for tritium vials. It’s not easy to find them in such a small size.

check this http://www.banggood.com/Betalight-Kit-Marker-S-M-L-Tritium-Selfluminous-...

any of them can be adjusted to the hole?

8steve88
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There’s a few different sizes and shapes on AliExpress
I seem to remember someone on here (or the other place) had some for sale at reasonable prices.
Strangely enough some counties will not allow the import of tritium, they treat it like it’s wildly radioactive, it is a bit but not wildly. Wink

isti242
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retiro675 wrote:
isti242 wrote:
8steve88 wrote:
Flipper already machined for tritium vials I see. Smile Another very hard to resist knife.

I’m looking for a cheap source for tritium vials. It’s not easy to find them in such a small size.

check this http://www.banggood.com/Betalight-Kit-Marker-S-M-L-Tritium-Selfluminous-...

any of them can be adjusted to the hole?

Thanks for the link, but I need the vial only (without the protecting case).

AlexGT
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nisse
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SanRenMu 763, but the belt clip is hurting my finger so need to figure out how to remove it, no luck yet, no suitable tools in the box

isti242
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nisse wrote:
SanRenMu 763, but the belt clip is hurting my finger so need to figure out how to remove it, no luck yet, no suitable tools in the box

Size 1/16 hex bit fits the screws perfectly.
You can also try the 1.5mm metric hex bit but that’s a smaller size.

isti242
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Steve and AlexGT thanks for the links I’ll check them out.

nisse
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Thx! will go shopping tomorrow for 1/16 hex

retiro675
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oh sorry, I had not noticed they were all encapsulated

see if these are worth to you:

1.5×6mm: http://www.banggood.com/1_5×6mm-Trit-Vials-For-DQG-SPY-DQG-Fairy-LED-Flashlight-p-921950.html
all sices avaliable in banggood: http://www.banggood.com/buy/trit-vials.html

isti242
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retiro675 wrote:
oh sorry, I had not noticed they were all encapsulated

see if these are worth to you:

1.5×6mm: http://www.banggood.com/1_5×6mm-Trit-Vials-For-DQG-SPY-DQG-Fairy-LED-Flashlight-p-921950.html
all sices avaliable in banggood: http://www.banggood.com/buy/trit-vials.html

That’s the size I need. Thanks!

Dale
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Ouchyfoot
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I decided to do a little tune up of my work Delica today. I'd never diassembled a lockback before, and figured that I'd give it a go. I remember "Nutinfancy" mentioning that he took his Endura apart, and spent a whole afternoon trying to put it back together.

It came apart easily, the mechanism is simple as hell. I cleaned all the parts, and highly polished the washers, blade tang, liners, and lock bar parts with a dremel and jewelers rouge. Everything was nicely lubed with fluorinated grease. Now to reassemble the knife.

Nightmare! 

No matter what I did, the heavy wire that acts as a spring for the lockback kept popping out before I could clamp the liner over it. I tried for hours. Finally I assembled the body, without the blade in it so there was no tension on the spring. Holding the lock down, I inserted the blade into the handle, but what about the washers? I had to pry the handle a bit, and try to slide them in between the blade and the liners by poking with a tweezers. Everything kept shifting around, and if my hand slipped off the lock, everything fell apart.

I finally got things aligned, I think, and inserted the pivot. OK! I was setting the screw in place with a tweezers when it went flying into the air. Damn! I crawled around under the table with a flashlight to find the screw when I came accross a highly polished bronze washer which I was sure I had put into the knife. I did find the screw also.

Now I have to pull the pivot again and try to slide the washer into place. This time I used a zip tie to hold the lockbar down. That made it easier. More time spent trying to align the washers and blade...I got the pivot in and screwed down.

OK. Let's see if all that pollishing of parts and fluorinated grease will make any difference on a lockback knife.

I depressed the lock and the newly sharpened blade dropped free fall, like an axis lock, and sliced right accross my finger producing a torrent of blood.

I think I have smoothest lockback knife around, but my suggestion is, "don't ever take apart your Delica or Endura". Now I know why they used rivets on my Caly3.

 

8steve88
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Ouchyfoot wrote:

I decided to do a little tune up of my work Delica today. I’d never diassembled a lockback before, and figured that I’d give it a go. I remember “Nutinfancy” mentioning that he took his Endura apart, and spent a whole afternoon trying to put it back together.

It came apart easily, the mechanism is simple as hell. I cleaned all the parts, and highly polished the washers, blade tang, liners, and lock bar parts with a dremel and jewelers rouge. Everything was nicely lubed with fluorinated grease. Now to reassemble the knife.

Nightmare! 

No matter what I did, the heavy wire that acts as a spring for the lockback kept popping out before I could clamp the liner over it. I tried for hours. Finally I assembled the body, without the blade in it so there was no tension on the spring. Holding the lock down, I inserted the blade into the handle, but what about the washers? I had to pry the handle a bit, and try to slide them in between the blade and the liners by poking with a tweezers. Everything kept shifting around, and if my hand slipped off the lock, everything fell apart.

I finally got things aligned, I think, and inserted the pivot. OK! I was setting the screw in place with a tweezers when it went flying into the air. Damn! I crawled around under the table with a flashlight to find the screw when I came accross a highly polished bronze washer which I was sure I had put into the knife. I did find the screw also.

Now I have to pull the pivot again and try to slide the washer into place. This time I used a zip tie to hold the lockbar down. That made it easier. More time spent trying to align the washers and blade…I got the pivot in and screwed down.

OK. Let’s see if all that pollishing of parts and fluorinated grease will make any difference on a lockback knife.

I depressed the lock and the newly sharpened blade dropped free fall, like an axis lock, and sliced right accross my finger producing a torrent of blood.

I think I have smoothest lockback knife around, but my suggestion is, “don’t ever take apart your Delica or Endura”. Now I know why they used rivets on my Caly3.

 

Been there, sounds remarkably similar to some of my exploits with a SanRenMu 7078 and it’s backspacer. The backspacer seemed to straighten out a bit as soon as it was free of the restraining forces of the screws holding it in place, I ended up overheating the spacer trying to get it to bend, I’ll make one to fit sometime but I’ve bought another 7078 and it’s staying in one piece for now.
These are remarkably useful for nudging washers into their place, or a bit of card can come in handy. Something like a centre punch can help locate the washers while the pivot is sliding through the scales and washers.
I only have very few back locks in my knives, it’s just a style I’m not that keen on.

Freman
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downlinx
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I don’t know what it is, i just have a hard time getting into spyderco knives. they just look gawd awfully ugly to me.

BLF Community Battery Pull Thread http://budgetlightforum.com/node/32720

Ouchyfoot
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Freman wrote:

I knew there had to be a simpler way. I just couldn’t figure it out.
isti242
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downlinx wrote:
I don’t know what it is, i just have a hard time getting into spyderco knives. they just look gawd awfully ugly to me.

Same for me ! They look absolutely awful. I don’t understand all this rave about them but I recognise they have an special design. Many benchmade models also look terrible. Sad

isti242
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Omega_17 wrote:
downlinx wrote:
I don’t know what it is, i just have a hard time getting into spyderco knives. they just look gawd awfully ugly to me.

Same for me ! They look absolutely awful. I don’t understand all this rave about them but I recognise they have an special design. Many benchmade models also look terrible. Sad

If you start to use them you will appreciate the design.

Racer
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The thing about Spyderco is that it either just clicks with someone or it doesn’t. There’s not a lot of folks in the middle. As a fanboy, I look at a knife like the Delica and all I see is EDC perfection. It’s extremely light but very robust. It’s compact but has more blade edge surface than you would think by looking at it. The deep carry clip is close to perfect. Smooth deployment and lockup even after thousands of cycles. Good steel with predictable sharpening and nice, grippy texturing on the FRN handle. Great ergonomics. Great usability. The more knives I buy, the more I appreciate the Spydies.

But if Spyderco isn’t your thing, luckily there’s about a million other knives out there Smile

8steve88
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isti242 wrote:
Omega_17 wrote:
downlinx wrote:
I don’t know what it is, i just have a hard time getting into spyderco knives. they just look gawd awfully ugly to me.

Same for me ! They look absolutely awful. I don’t understand all this rave about them but I recognise they have an special design. Many benchmade models also look terrible. Sad

If you start to use them you will appreciate the design.

I have the “bug” series plus the Clipitool with the Spyderedge and plain blades, those and the FRN handled Spyderco’s including the UKPK left me distinctly underwhelmed.

Recently I’ve bought three clones – two Militarys and a Paramilitary 2, they just feel so right in the hand with G-10 scales, and the full flat grind blades cut very well, having tried the fakes I am wanting genuine article.

If you want to try out the knives without paying full price then try one of the clones, mine were $17 to $23 and they make me think that one day I will own genuine ones.
One thing to be said for buying the genuine ones full price is that you will always be able to sell them on to recoup some of your outlay whereas the clones would be (or should be) a total loss.
Without the chance to try these clones then I would have said that the genuine ones were not worth bothering with now I’m sure they are.
If you can’t get past the idea of buying fakes then try a Chinese made Spyderco, the budget line, Ambitious, Persistence, Tenacious and Resilience and the Byrd line will all give you a chance to try the ergonomics and cutting ability, you might change your mind.

downlinx
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Thanks steve, I may try that.

BLF Community Battery Pull Thread http://budgetlightforum.com/node/32720

strayz
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8steve88 wrote:

Recently I’ve bought three clones – two Militarys and a Paramilitary 2, they just feel so right in the hand with G-10 scales, and the full flat grind blades cut very well, having tried the fakes I am wanting genuine article.

If you want to try out the knives without paying full price then try one of the clones, mine were $17 to $23 and they make me think that one day I will own genuine ones.
One thing to be said for buying the genuine ones full price is that you will always be able to sell them on to recoup some of your outlay whereas the clones would be (or should be) a total loss.
Without the chance to try these clones then I would have said that the genuine ones were not worth bothering with now I’m sure they are.
If you can’t get past the idea of buying fakes then try a Chinese made Spyderco, the budget line, Ambitious, Persistence, Tenacious and Resilience and the Byrd line will all give you a chance to try the ergonomics and cutting ability, you might change your mind.

I would say avoid the fakes. One of the reasons these knives sell for so cheep is the steel in them. Not to start a war about all Chinese knives have crap steel, but lets be honest they have to cut costs somewhere, and generally workmanship and quality of steel that goes in to them are better than some of the Pakistani stainless steels but not buy much in many cases, some cases not as good.

If you really have the need to feel one in hand go to the local knife shop and see what it is like. Hell here on the edge of the planet Anchorage Alaska we have 3-4 places to buy higher end knives. There is no real reason to buy fakes.

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