Maybe explanation for not-so-great current output on some EAST-092 drivers?

About 2 years ago I got my first HD2010, it was a Fandyfire from LightsCastle.
I did a review of it then and it measured 3.8 amps on a 26650, however I had not hardwired my VOM at that time or braided the driver spring.
After doing both of those things, the light pulls just over 5 amps on a good battery. Still does it to this day.

Now 2 years later, I have 1 Ultrafire HD2010 and 2 Tangsfire HD2010’s and none of them pull the amps of the Fandy.
All the newer East-092 drivers seem to have less balls than the old ones.

The only exception to this is the Tangsfire C8 XM-L2 from Tmart from the beginning of this year which will pull over 5 amps With the XM-L2 which is said to be harder to drive than an old XM-L T6.

So that begs the question, where did they source that driver and can it be sourced for individual sale?
Later,
Keith

Hi,

I just tried that & there was no change in output/emitter current, measured by clamp meter.

Jim

I think that it may be time for me to give in/up, and order one of the BLF17DDs, and see how that works. Maybe there is some special combination.

Also, FYI, the EAST-092s I have came with the 70N03s on them, i.e., I didn’t swap those FETs in.

Thanks,
Jim

I makes me wonder why the EAST-092s from Gearbest are different. A properly spec’ed batch or a batch of old stock?

When I got mine, I had to try several times to get an HD2010 from Tmart with a “good” EAST-092. I was fortunate that a couple of folks from Tmart used to post here at the time, and I sent the HD2010 back to them at least once, and maybe twice, before I got one that was good.

If I recall, a similar sort of thing happened when FT start selling the “new” EAST-092s (there’s a thread somewhere) where some people got good ones, and some got not so good ones.

I was told that the EAST-092s that I got (the ones I’ve been testing in this thread) were all the “original” “good” ones, and I guess that 3.6+ amps could be considered “good”, but the ones I tried out of the batch I have just don’t seem to go “true” DD on high mode… so I’ve gone ahead and ordered a BLF17DD and some of the FETs from RMM, and will see how that does.
I just went ahead and ord

There is no single cell driver that will match the 17DD/SUD70N02-03P combo.

The 'good' east-092s use a DTU06N03 FET, but still have the weird MCU & firmware issues that limit max output.

Hi,

I finally was able to get one of the drivers to get to the modes, and took some pics of the gate signal on my scope (sorry the scope is so filthy. I had to dig it out of my basement to do these, and haven’t had a chance to clean it up :():

Time scale (20 usecs/div):

Voltage scale (2 volts/div):

Low mode:

Medium mode:

High mode:

I mis-read the high mode earlier. I think that it’s actually more like 2.2V?

If jumping B+ to the gate doesn't increase the output, then the gate voltage isn't important. At least, not with that FET on that driver.

Understood.

Measure the cell voltage while on high. I bet it is being dragged down by the load. You need a cell with better dilithium crystals in it.

I’m not so sure about that… I haven’t done any experiments to prove it, but all the datasheets make it very clear that gate voltage is really critical.

:smiley:

texaspyro makes a good point. What’s the cell voltage under load? If this is a freshly charged 20R I’d expect it to be >2.5v under only a 3A load. Since you’ve got 100% duty cycle you can also just use your DMM to measure the gate voltage in case your scope is crazy…

With 20R battery:

- Vbat voltage under load: ~4.02V

  • Gate voltage using meter: ~3V

This is with the Vishay 70N03? I’ve just glanced at the datasheet and sure enough 3v+ looks like it should be fine.

What kind of current do you see when you bypass the driver (eg true DD)?

Hi,

I can’t remember if it’s a Vishay, but it was the one some of us bought from Ebay during one of the older threads about when FT brought back “an” EAST-092/-092B:

Re. your last question, good timing :). I was just curious, about that, and had measured it a few minutes ago, and got 6.68 amps (triple XP-G2 on Noctigon). This was with only limited optimizing of the cables (it’s a mess, sorry).

Edit: That was with a –20R battery.

Hmm, that’s a lot of thread to fish through. Instead I glanced at the current pics on FT: they show the ON Semi logo. Maybe this FET? I’m not really confident, just a guess.

Anyway doing a ton of additional work here may be a moot point: once you have some AOD510 or Vishay 70N02 or IRFR3711ZTR (or whatever RMM is sending) in hand it’ll be easy to see whether the FET is the hangup. (Which it certainly is :wink: :-p)

LOL :slight_smile: you don’t speed read?

Yes, we shall see…

Ahh. Hopefully the link’ll still work, but I found the item in my Ebay watch list:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/251144695278?\_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

5 PCS NTD70N03 TO-252 T70N03 70N03 ON N-Channel Enhancement Mode MOSFE

Yes, I can see the page. The FET does look similar to what FT shows in their current pic. It’s definitely ON Semi. (It’s still quite possible that I’ve linked to the wrong datasheet though.)

I think that this is the part of that older thread where that Ebay item was referenced (by moderator007):

My glance at the datasheet didn’t make them look that bad, but as comfychair pointed out we aren’t exactly using them in their intended role either. (EDIT: ohaya is referencing post #108 in that thread)