Thx! will go shopping tomorrow for 1/16 hex
oh sorry, I had not noticed they were all encapsulated
see if these are worth to you:
1.5x6mm: http://www.banggood.com/1_5x6mm-Trit-Vials-For-DQG-SPY-DQG-Fairy-LED-Flashlight-p-921950.html
all sices avaliable in banggood: trit vials - Buy trit vials with free shipping | Banggood Shopping
That’s the size I need. Thanks!
I decided to do a little tune up of my work Delica today. I'd never diassembled a lockback before, and figured that I'd give it a go. I remember "Nutinfancy" mentioning that he took his Endura apart, and spent a whole afternoon trying to put it back together.
It came apart easily, the mechanism is simple as hell. I cleaned all the parts, and highly polished the washers, blade tang, liners, and lock bar parts with a dremel and jewelers rouge. Everything was nicely lubed with fluorinated grease. Now to reassemble the knife.
Nightmare!
No matter what I did, the heavy wire that acts as a spring for the lockback kept popping out before I could clamp the liner over it. I tried for hours. Finally I assembled the body, without the blade in it so there was no tension on the spring. Holding the lock down, I inserted the blade into the handle, but what about the washers? I had to pry the handle a bit, and try to slide them in between the blade and the liners by poking with a tweezers. Everything kept shifting around, and if my hand slipped off the lock, everything fell apart.
I finally got things aligned, I think, and inserted the pivot. OK! I was setting the screw in place with a tweezers when it went flying into the air. Damn! I crawled around under the table with a flashlight to find the screw when I came accross a highly polished bronze washer which I was sure I had put into the knife. I did find the screw also.
Now I have to pull the pivot again and try to slide the washer into place. This time I used a zip tie to hold the lockbar down. That made it easier. More time spent trying to align the washers and blade...I got the pivot in and screwed down.
OK. Let's see if all that pollishing of parts and fluorinated grease will make any difference on a lockback knife.
I depressed the lock and the newly sharpened blade dropped free fall, like an axis lock, and sliced right accross my finger producing a torrent of blood.
I think I have smoothest lockback knife around, but my suggestion is, "don't ever take apart your Delica or Endura". Now I know why they used rivets on my Caly3.
Been there, sounds remarkably similar to some of my exploits with a SanRenMu 7078 and it’s backspacer. The backspacer seemed to straighten out a bit as soon as it was free of the restraining forces of the screws holding it in place, I ended up overheating the spacer trying to get it to bend, I’ll make one to fit sometime but I’ve bought another 7078 and it’s staying in one piece for now.
These are remarkably useful for nudging washers into their place, or a bit of card can come in handy. Something like a centre punch can help locate the washers while the pivot is sliding through the scales and washers.
I only have very few back locks in my knives, it’s just a style I’m not that keen on.
I don’t know what it is, i just have a hard time getting into spyderco knives. they just look gawd awfully ugly to me.
I knew there had to be a simpler way. I just couldn’t figure it out.
Same for me ! They look absolutely awful. I don’t understand all this rave about them but I recognise they have an special design. Many benchmade models also look terrible. 
If you start to use them you will appreciate the design.
The thing about Spyderco is that it either just clicks with someone or it doesn’t. There’s not a lot of folks in the middle. As a fanboy, I look at a knife like the Delica and all I see is EDC perfection. It’s extremely light but very robust. It’s compact but has more blade edge surface than you would think by looking at it. The deep carry clip is close to perfect. Smooth deployment and lockup even after thousands of cycles. Good steel with predictable sharpening and nice, grippy texturing on the FRN handle. Great ergonomics. Great usability. The more knives I buy, the more I appreciate the Spydies.
But if Spyderco isn’t your thing, luckily there’s about a million other knives out there 
I have the “bug” series plus the Clipitool with the Spyderedge and plain blades, those and the FRN handled Spyderco’s including the UKPK left me distinctly underwhelmed.
Recently I’ve bought three clones - two Militarys and a Paramilitary 2, they just feel so right in the hand with G-10 scales, and the full flat grind blades cut very well, having tried the fakes I am wanting genuine article.
If you want to try out the knives without paying full price then try one of the clones, mine were $17 to $23 and they make me think that one day I will own genuine ones.
One thing to be said for buying the genuine ones full price is that you will always be able to sell them on to recoup some of your outlay whereas the clones would be (or should be) a total loss.
Without the chance to try these clones then I would have said that the genuine ones were not worth bothering with now I’m sure they are.
If you can’t get past the idea of buying fakes then try a Chinese made Spyderco, the budget line, Ambitious, Persistence, Tenacious and Resilience and the Byrd line will all give you a chance to try the ergonomics and cutting ability, you might change your mind.
Thanks steve, I may try that.
I would say avoid the fakes. One of the reasons these knives sell for so cheep is the steel in them. Not to start a war about all Chinese knives have crap steel, but lets be honest they have to cut costs somewhere, and generally workmanship and quality of steel that goes in to them are better than some of the Pakistani stainless steels but not buy much in many cases, some cases not as good.
If you really have the need to feel one in hand go to the local knife shop and see what it is like. Hell here on the edge of the planet Anchorage Alaska we have 3-4 places to buy higher end knives. There is no real reason to buy fakes.
That might be true in the good ’ol U.S.of A. but not, unfortunately in the U.K. the nearest knife shop to me is around 200 miles away, Hiennie Haynes , much cheaper to buy a clone to see if it “fits” than travel the distance to try the real thing. I could order one and send it back if I don’t like it but that means having the money to spare in the first place.
I realize that the steel might not be up to the standards of the genuine knife but again I have plenty of hard use Chinese knives, Enlan EL-01s to name one, EL-04MCT another. The clones that I have might well make me decide to buy a Military or Paramilitary 2, before I had the clones I just didn’t get the Spyderco “thing”, now I do. I still think that they are about twice the price that they should be but I could be tempted.
The knife laws are very different in the U.K. than what you are probably used to and these knives are perfectly legal to own but not to carry without good reason so they are strictly around the house light users, the steel becomes less important. 8Cr13MoV or even lower quality is fine, Spyderco use 8Cr13MoV for their budget series and 3Cr in the bug range. I’ve even bought a couple with 5Cr15Mo steel listed in the specs and that’s fine for the use they are getting. You might begin to see that a clone for $17 delivered makes sense in my situation. I bought these knowing them to be less than genuine and I have not been ripped off in any way. I feel that they are a good quality knife for the $17 - $22, equal to any Chinese knife of the same price.
The other thing is that I’m careful to buy impossible combinations of steel/G-10 colour, sprint run Military with brown G-10 scales, the blade etched CPM S30V - not CTS XHP. Paramilitary 2 with blue G-10 scales, again marked CPM S30V not M390.
They scream FAKE to anyone who knows anything about what they are buying. They will never be sold by me, I’d rather put an angle grinder across them rather than to sell them.
I just got my new stones from Amazon.
DMT DiaSharp diamond stones - course-fine-xtra fine, and a Spyderco ultra-fine ceramic stone.
