Uniquefire UF-1405 - A worthy zoomy?

man i cant wait to get mine, thx djozz for sharing this with us and i may cut mine just like you did but i will machine it , well any soon beam shots ?

Actually I'm waiting for a batch of springs, I am having them made and if they are good I will try them out in this mod. Should be within a week.

One question please, for maximum throw what would be better, an xp-e2 at 2.5A or an xp-g2 at 4.75A?

Thanks.

Obviously you have a good idea about it, at these currents the two leds have a very similar and maximum surface brightness, so throw would also be very similar. That said, for my UF-T20 I have a dedomedxpg2-pill(3A) and a dedomed xpe2-pill(2.4A), and the throw of the xpe2 is just a bit more, but the xpe2 led was cool white and the xpg2 led was neutral.

I remember a while ago I did a post about this, wait....found it:

Thank you very much Djozz.
So I’m going to try the xp-g2 for this flashlight (anyway, I don’t have an xp-e2).
Just another question from that emitters photo, did you test the dedomed xr-e?
I also have one from a long term stand-by mod and haven’t use it yet.

Don't bother with xre (even if ez 900)... Although it is far easiest emitter for de dome (pry off with pliers). XP emitters kills that old sucker in performance.

Djozz is legend. Looking forward for results.

Yes, I know what do you mean, but xr-e die is so small that at 2A maybe it could outperform the xp-e2.
That would be great for small cell lights.

The die size of the xre and xpe2 is the same: 1x1mm (the xre ez900 is .9x.9 but that difference is not big enough to compensate for the brightness improvement of the xpe2)

But the emitting angle is 90º for the xr-e and 110º for the xp-e2 if I remember correctly.
Does this difference disapear when you dedome?

Yes, unfortunately that advantage is gone :-(

I think the light emitting angle has nothing to do with maximum throw ability. What really matters is the surface brightness (luminance).

90º of light emitting angle means more light is hitting the lens and there are lesser lumens loss compare to 110º light emitting angle, but that only means the projected ‘die shape’ is bigger for the 90º angle (XR-E) since there is more light collected by the lens, doesn’t mean it is more intense and able to throw further though.

Bibihang, not sure but I think that if the die size is the same (1x1mm), the projected image will be also the same size.
If the 90º is hitting more light, would’nt be brighter so throwing further?

Man forget about XRE emitters. We all tried that in various configurations with dome or without so why spend so much words on explaining. Try and you'll see that it is junk compering to new line of XP emitters.

Xp-l emitters are just the same as xm-l (die size), so I think that are no competitor throw wise. Maybe correct for xr-e but not for xp-e2.

:) I meant about XP-G2 and XP-E2 but even XP-L will out throw XRE when properly driven.

I have never compared the 90º emitter with the 110º emitter side by side, but based on my understanding the 90º emitter won’t throw any further given everything else the same.

Imagine this, if you put a pre-collimator lens in your aspherical flashlight the pre-collimator lens will help to gather more light emitted from your LED hitting the main aspherical lens, right? What you see as the result is the projected die image is bigger with pre-collimator lens, however the measured candela is actually still the same compare to removing the pre-collimator lens. I think this concept works the same on different LED emitting angle but I hope Dr. Jones or djozz can chime in and explain further on this.

I received mine in yesterday. I ordered it in Alibaba and apparently the seller is Uniquefire OEM. $38 shipped with UPS and arrived here in one week, quite good.

Now look at some photos of it.


Surprisingly it comes with XM-L2. :slight_smile: I thought it is first generation XM-L as we see in FT, BG and GB.


It has one o-ring at the tail, but with the additional groove maybe adding another o-ring in there is possible.


The switch is secured with retaining ring.


Tailcap disassembled.


I have seen other members posted their switch, but mine looks different. It is more like a “standard” switch with 20mm PCB board.


From the two photos above I think I can swap it with the Omten switch sold in IOS, or maybe I will even consider to buy the forward clicky switch .

One problem with the light though. Sometimes the light would turn off by itself especially when moving around. I suspect that there is poor contact somewhere, or maybe the tailcap spring is not long enough to give enough pressure, not sure about this. Other members said the switch is nothing but crap, however my switch is seemingly different so I am not sure what exactly is the rootcause, have to play around with it more to find out.

Other notes with my OEM unit:

  1. The seller gives me the option whether I want to have the “Uniquefire” wording on it, and I chose no.
  2. The bezel of my unit doesn’t have through-holes around as you can see in the photo above.
  3. The seller also offers me the LED options: Cool white, red or green; And the driver mode options: 1 mode, 3 modes or 5 modes. Mine comes with CW and 5 modes, gotta swap the driver into LD-40 later anyway.
  4. The stock lens is made of glass and pretty good. The diameter and focal point is exactly the same with my DX 66mm aspherical lens. I put my DX lens inside and the projected die shape and the “ring” around are exactly the same.

That’s all for my impressions. It is not perfect but fairly good for the price. I have not fully disassembled it yet and my multimeter is not with me at the moment so no current reading was taken. The seller is very responsive and they even have Skype account.

With a narrower emission angle, more of the light will hit the aspheric lens and the image of the die, and thus the throw, should be higher. I don’t think the die image changes in width.

To increase the width of the die image, use a shorter focal length lens (thicker lens).

wow that emitter is off center!
looks like an 18650 tube.is it that big headed?

I assume you are talking about my light?

Actually the LED is perfectly centered with the screw-in centering piece, which is a really good approach (JAX Z1 has this too). T20 doesn’t have the centering piece to ensure the LED is centered and holding the emitter down.

Nope, it is 26650 tube, but 18650 spacer is provided.

The lens is 66mm in diameter including the lip. This is seriously a budget big aspherical lens flashlight I have never seen before.