Thanks fellfromtree, I see it now. I’m ready to be corrected, but I think that was simply Tom E misunderstanding the exact function of that resistor.
What RGB stuff are you working on? Tho I wont be releasing my code open source I do have a much more simple open source RGB project I’m working on (does not allow ramping of the individual colors, that will be staying proprietary, I am selling my driver’s however, I’ve just created a sales thread for them the other day) It will simply be a few white modes, then a fixed brightness level for the individual colors (can be changed in the code, but not changed from the working light) then a RGB (fixed brightness) mode (and maybe a strobe, if I feel like it)
Probably best to PM me, already a lot going on in this thread (also note, the open source RGB stuff is very low on my priority list, probably be a few months)
Oops, updated the OP with: reduce a voltage spike flatten the peak. Think that makes betters sense? It's what I meant 
, at least that what the o-scope graphs look like.
Tom E, which specific scope images are you thinking of? As I insinuated it’s possible that I’m missing something here.
On the v1.0 boards, is there any other place other than the labelled pads that can be used for emitter +?
Edit: I mean on the emitter side of the driver…
On the “BLF17DD V1.0” board there is a copper pour with 4 vias which connects directly to BAT. The middle half of that pour is exposed, but the entire pour can be used if you scrape off the purple resist. Besides this small copper pour there is no other area which may be used for LED.
If you’ve torn off the copper I suppose you could drill a hole clear through the board. You’d then scrape an area on the bottom side and solder your wire there. 
I have done what wight suggests before, drilled a hole through the board and ran a wire from the top of the spring and directly to the emitter.
Yeah cereal lemme try my ham fist methods first. I’d hate to take up your time with my issues. I was actually thinking like 2 dd boards stacked and each works with each other through programming the tiny13a to get the different modes which will be red and uv. The pill in the Y3 will be big enough to do this. Thanks for looking out though I really appreciate it. If I have questions, trust me I’ll be in here asking! 
Thanks for all your help Dan… appreciate it
EDIT Hey I was thinking today… What if you just stacked one of these on top of the yezl y3 buck driver for modes? You could cut the switch pin to the mcu on the buck, bypass the fet so it’s always high while still having the voltage regulation intact. Then run the LED + on the buck to the emitter. Run B+ and GND to both boards. Run the LED - on the BLFDD to the emitter. Programmable! 2 cells… I know the buck can run 3 but not sure if the zener mod can handle that.
Also let’s say I wanted to run multi emitters. Can I hook a fet up to PB0 OCR0A and connect a free floating FET there for a second pwm out. I noticed it’s not doing anything on the board itself. So I could in theory run a multi colored emitter as a programmable buck up to 6a
Thanks, DBCstm. I’ll keep that in mind next time.
Jim
Hey Cereal_killer, I just had a chance to check my 22mm 7135 driver and I noticed that both your boards and mine use 1.1mm vias. According to me (post #38) I was unable to get 20AWG to fit through my 1.1mm vias, much less 18AWG. What gives? Do I just suck or do you have a secret technique?
I was trying to upload a pic but apparently photobucket mobile doesnt work with IOS 8.1 (yet another reason I wish I wouldnt have updated).
Anyway I’m able to get 18AWG in threw 1.1’s, the way I do it is- strip it so its nice and clean, take the stripped end in my fingers and twist it as tightly as possible, flux it, touch it to a hot iron so just the smallest bit of solder goes into it to hold the strands in place (do not let even the smallest blob build up). Then I get the board, press it straight down on the via, re-apply the iron (from the top of the board) and it takes about a second to heat up and slide into the via, I usually have a handful of straggler strands that dont make it (usually under a dozen if you kept it nice and tight when you fluxed) and I simply cut those of with an exacto knife.
Edit:
Ok so here it is inserted threw the via but before the loose strands are trimmed off, you can see on this one I only had a couple. After I trim them I touch the iron back to it to make it perfect. Note that “20” you see on the wire is where its marked “200*”, this is 18AWG silicone 120 strand.
Interesting stuff, thanks C_k! I’ll definitely give the big wire another try.
Love the new design…the copper pour using the polygon is VERY nice!
Revisions just kept getting better and better!
Great job CK!!!
Mine were just shipped today… I like the design too CK- seems to make a lot better use of the copper
Oh yeah, polygon pour is much more elegant
I was wondering can we just buy like 100 of these… Adapt them. http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/Zener-diode-1W-4-7V-1N4732-In-line-diode/330416_1982585508.html
Looks like it should work. It will be a pain though, and in QTY 100 I think you lose money vs purchasing the standard SOD-123 part.
It just never ever ceases to AMAZE me at how brilliant this forum group is. This group is literally advancing the entire industry.
I have glossed over seeing this driver before, and until now it never occurred to me what I was really seeing. I'd just like to say once again to all who contributed to this project.
THANK YOU! And keep up the good work :)
Out of curiosity I'd like to know how everyone would feel about a production run of this board? I just ordered a pair from Mtn electronics to try out so my own interest will be based on testing of those.
However assuming that works I was thinking perhaps we could look into having some fully assembled boards made in china.
Has anyone here ever done this that would like to chime in?
I've had some quotes from a place or two on the fully assembled drivers, but in low quantity (100 pc)the price was still like $12 each I think.
The board(s) this thread was suppose to cover I'd consider sort of obsolete now. wight's boards are the "latest", but there's lots of spin-offs. C_K has gone 100% into the PIC based designs (think he is not continuing with the 13A designs), while wight is staying with the Atmel 13A designs, so far. The latest R&D efforts are on a port to the ATTiny25, which doubles program space for one thing, and I think also includes temp monitoring. The PIC and 25 based board are the immenent future, but wight has a ton of form factors/options available all based on the latest upgrades (zener, OTC, dual FET/7135, etc....), and with a good known source for a FET. The Vishar based FET designs have an issue (I guess) for getting a source for a wuality FET right now.
The 13A just can't do everything we want it to do - the 1K space is a roadblock now.
Sorry, but this PC board stuff is so hot and changing almost day by day, it's a tough call to say when a good snap-shot can be taken. Richard has been doing his own spin-off designs, I believe, plus lots of R&D, working with JohnnyC for the firmware, etc. wight is the guy to follow now, I believe. He either doesn't have a regular job, or doesn't sleep -- I have no clue how he's had time to do so much for this forum! I find his board designs cutting edge: exc. layout, exc. efficient paths, etc., plus his research efforts to finding hot performing FET's, and other parts has been a huge contribution. Plus he's very actively supporting, tweeking, etc.