On the v1.0 boards, is there any other place other than the labelled pads that can be used for emitter +?
Edit: I mean on the emitter side of the driverā¦
On the v1.0 boards, is there any other place other than the labelled pads that can be used for emitter +?
Edit: I mean on the emitter side of the driverā¦
On the āBLF17DD V1.0ā board there is a copper pour with 4 vias which connects directly to BAT. The middle half of that pour is exposed, but the entire pour can be used if you scrape off the purple resist. Besides this small copper pour there is no other area which may be used for LED.
If youāve torn off the copper I suppose you could drill a hole clear through the board. Youād then scrape an area on the bottom side and solder your wire there.
I have done what wight suggests before, drilled a hole through the board and ran a wire from the top of the spring and directly to the emitter.
Yeah cereal lemme try my ham fist methods first. Iād hate to take up your time with my issues. I was actually thinking like 2 dd boards stacked and each works with each other through programming the tiny13a to get the different modes which will be red and uv. The pill in the Y3 will be big enough to do this. Thanks for looking out though I really appreciate it. If I have questions, trust me Iāll be in here asking!
Thanks for all your help Danā¦ appreciate it
EDIT Hey I was thinking todayā¦ What if you just stacked one of these on top of the yezl y3 buck driver for modes? You could cut the switch pin to the mcu on the buck, bypass the fet so itās always high while still having the voltage regulation intact. Then run the LED + on the buck to the emitter. Run B+ and GND to both boards. Run the LED - on the BLFDD to the emitter. Programmable! 2 cellsā¦ I know the buck can run 3 but not sure if the zener mod can handle that.
Also letās say I wanted to run multi emitters. Can I hook a fet up to PB0 OCR0A and connect a free floating FET there for a second pwm out. I noticed itās not doing anything on the board itself. So I could in theory run a multi colored emitter as a programmable buck up to 6a
I have done what wight suggests before, drilled a hole through the board and ran a wire from the top of the spring and directly to the emitter.
Thanks, DBCstm. Iāll keep that in mind next time.
Jim
New version of the 17dd_v3.1 released. A quick overview of the changes-
- A real GND plane (on both sides) this means no more pulling off the thin gnd rings, it also means you can scrape a little mask and have a GND point almost anywhere on the board.
- GND plane has āthermalāsā on the lower power components (for easier soldering) but is solid for the FETās source leg and the batt nagative input via to supply the necessary higher current (this was not easy to make)
- A dedicated zener pad, no more stacking (simply leave unpopulated for 4.2v builds)
- C1 is in the proper position to eliminate āboost circuitā issue so no more gate resistors
- āStarāsā are easier to short with just solder
- Dedicated batt- input via (used for piggybacking)
- Has a set of 1.1mm LED lead viaās (sized for 20AWG wire, even 18 will fit), this makes multi-emitter builds less of a pain.
- Dedicated SW+ input via on pin3 for MOM FWās
- Batt+ spring pad is 8mm but only 5mm exposed (the size of standard 105C springs and those brass buttons), scrape to expose the full 8mm
Note this is not a mod of the V2, this was a total redesign
https://644db4de3505c40a0444-327723bce298e3ff5813fb42baeefbaa.ssl.cf1.rackcdn.com/uploads/project/top_image/eD4kRUiO/i.png https://644db4de3505c40a0444-327723bce298e3ff5813fb42baeefbaa.ssl.cf1.rackcdn.com/uploads/project/bottom_image/eD4kRUiO/i.png
Hey Cereal_killer, I just had a chance to check my 22mm 7135 driver and I noticed that both your boards and mine use 1.1mm vias. According to me (post #38) I was unable to get 20AWG to fit through my 1.1mm vias, much less 18AWG. What gives? Do I just suck or do you have a secret technique?
Hey Cereal_killer, I just had a chance to check my 22mm 7135 driver and I noticed that both your boards and mine use 1.1mm vias. According to me (post #38) I was unable to get 20AWG to fit through my 1.1mm vias, much less 18AWG. What gives? Do I just suck or do you have a secret technique?
I was trying to upload a pic but apparently photobucket mobile doesnt work with IOS 8.1 (yet another reason I wish I wouldnt have updated).
Anyway Iām able to get 18AWG in threw 1.1ās, the way I do it is- strip it so its nice and clean, take the stripped end in my fingers and twist it as tightly as possible, flux it, touch it to a hot iron so just the smallest bit of solder goes into it to hold the strands in place (do not let even the smallest blob build up). Then I get the board, press it straight down on the via, re-apply the iron (from the top of the board) and it takes about a second to heat up and slide into the via, I usually have a handful of straggler strands that dont make it (usually under a dozen if you kept it nice and tight when you fluxed) and I simply cut those of with an exacto knife.
Edit:
Ok so here it is inserted threw the via but before the loose strands are trimmed off, you can see on this one I only had a couple. After I trim them I touch the iron back to it to make it perfect. Note that ā20ā you see on the wire is where its marked ā200*ā, this is 18AWG silicone 120 strand.
Interesting stuff, thanks C_k! Iāll definitely give the big wire another try.
Love the new designā¦the copper pour using the polygon is VERY nice!
Revisions just kept getting better and better!
Great job CK!!!
Mine were just shipped todayā¦ I like the design too CK- seems to make a lot better use of the copper
Mine were just shipped todayā¦ I like the design too CK- seems to make a lot better use of the copper
Oh yeah, polygon pour is much more elegant
I was wondering can we just buy like 100 of theseā¦ Adapt them. http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/Zener-diode-1W-4-7V-1N4732-In-line-diode/330416_1982585508.html
I was wondering can we just buy like 100 of theseā¦ Adapt them. Page Not Found - Aliexpress.com
Looks like it should work. It will be a pain though, and in QTY 100 I think you lose money vs purchasing the standard SOD-123 part.
It just never ever ceases to AMAZE me at how brilliant this forum group is. This group is literally advancing the entire industry.
I have glossed over seeing this driver before, and until now it never occurred to me what I was really seeing. I'd just like to say once again to all who contributed to this project.
THANK YOU! And keep up the good work :)
Out of curiosity I'd like to know how everyone would feel about a production run of this board? I just ordered a pair from Mtn electronics to try out so my own interest will be based on testing of those.
However assuming that works I was thinking perhaps we could look into having some fully assembled boards made in china.
Has anyone here ever done this that would like to chime in?
I've had some quotes from a place or two on the fully assembled drivers, but in low quantity (100 pc)the price was still like $12 each I think.
The board(s) this thread was suppose to cover I'd consider sort of obsolete now. wight's boards are the "latest", but there's lots of spin-offs. C_K has gone 100% into the PIC based designs (think he is not continuing with the 13A designs), while wight is staying with the Atmel 13A designs, so far. The latest R&D efforts are on a port to the ATTiny25, which doubles program space for one thing, and I think also includes temp monitoring. The PIC and 25 based board are the immenent future, but wight has a ton of form factors/options available all based on the latest upgrades (zener, OTC, dual FET/7135, etc....), and with a good known source for a FET. The Vishar based FET designs have an issue (I guess) for getting a source for a wuality FET right now.
The 13A just can't do everything we want it to do - the 1K space is a roadblock now.
Sorry, but this PC board stuff is so hot and changing almost day by day, it's a tough call to say when a good snap-shot can be taken. Richard has been doing his own spin-off designs, I believe, plus lots of R&D, working with JohnnyC for the firmware, etc. wight is the guy to follow now, I believe. He either doesn't have a regular job, or doesn't sleep -- I have no clue how he's had time to do so much for this forum! I find his board designs cutting edge: exc. layout, exc. efficient paths, etc., plus his research efforts to finding hot performing FET's, and other parts has been a huge contribution. Plus he's very actively supporting, tweeking, etc.
Heh, . Thereās definitely a lot of tweaking going on. If only there was more ācompleting of projectsā or āproducing of buck driversā going on.
Remember that the ATtiny25 is physically the same as the ATtiny13A. Porting to the ATtiny25 should pay off for all drivers which currently use the ATtiny13A! Thatās why the 25 was selected instead of the 45 or 85, which are both slightly larger and donāt fit properly on these tight PCBs.
And pray tell what does āPortingā mean? Last time I ported anything I bored holes in the end of a .45 Long Colt barrel so the handloads I was feeding it didnāt make the front sight attack me.
In this case, āadaptingā would give the correct meaning.
So this would mean writing firmware to utilize the 25 in place of the 13A?
Hel*, I canāt remember what everything is now, why would I want it even more complicated? lol Sad but trueā¦