nah, dedoming a led with all related uncertainties is part of the fun of the hobby :-)
LOL, I like the outcome of a de-domed LED, but if I can remove the process required to get there I will be all over that!
Looks like this one is running at the 3A range to make those numbers.
We usually de-dome for maximum throw, and with that in mind we also push the envelope on power. Most of mine are in the 6A range, with some approaching 7A. How long the emitter will last is no longer really relevant. How long did yesteryears tungsten bulbs last? 20 hours? Yeah, even pushed hard and naked the LED’s will last a long long time.
I would imagine Olight is sealing the bare die to prevent damage to the bond wires. I don’t worry about it myself, but if someone is opening up and playing with one of these it’s sure easy to bump a bond wire and snap it.
My Olight SR-90 Intimidator is running an XM-L2 U2 1A, de-domed, at 6.67A and making 610Kcd with well rested battery pack. 
After reading that “Chinglish” translation it certainly appears that it has a step down. After 5 1/2 minutes or something then 60% output??? Can not make it all out!
That should be expected w/ 1 X 18650 and all that output.
Its big brother, the M3X that I have has NO step down, does not get hot and can run on max[mostly] the duration of the battery charge. That of course has 2 x 18650.
This little brother looks impressive! 8)
Hey guys, take a good hard look at that close-up of the de-domed emitter. Is it just me or is that top bond wire out of place?
Where are the wires ??? 
Also here, I do not see them
Heheheh…that’s funny because you are absolutely correct. The bond wire in their photo is broken. Here is a pic of one that isn’t. There is an obvious difference between the two.
Also looks like the ESD protection diode wire is broken (not that that matters).
610Kcd ……Hero Light…. Dang!!!
Need to put that SR90 reflector with lens I bought a couple of years ago to work!
I need to take a better look at the spec’s on it, wonder if there’s an UCLp lens that fits it?
Can’t wait to see how it proves out…
I highly doubt the dedome was done by Olight, with each dedome there is a different outcome and greatly altering the product’s consistency. more likely it came domeless from the factory.
What would be the MOQ (minimum order quantity) for cree to manufacture a domeless led? I think we should find out…
I agree.
Even better would be to organise it through a vendor like IOS so we can buy the factory de-domed emitters on Noctigons etc.
Thrunite took the risk to overdrive the LED, and now Olight take the risk to dedome them. 
I hope to see more and more manufacturers to take this approach. How about Maxtoch? 
I believe Olight did use LED Seal or similar thing on the die surface, as we know these manufacturers are careful with their products and don’t want the customers to keep returning the flashlights back to them. And man, that dedomed is really clean. I always use gasoline method and only got the result very clean once or twice. Heat-dedome method might come cleaner but that requires some skills - How many emitters do they need to sacrifice in order to make their workers expert in it? 
With the right set-up, I can see them dunking 1000 emitters in gasoline overnight, upside down, and returning in the morning to find 1000 domes on the bottom of the tank. 
No skills required.
Gas method works very well, but you can’t always get that clean and perfect dedome result as shown in their picture. Unless they have modified their gasoline formula to specifically fit for LED dedome.
They may be cutting the dome close to the die and not completely dedoming the led
Then we will see some leftover dome material around the die but from the picture I can’t see any. Anyway I’ve never see the real thing so I can’t say for sure.
Ultrasonics + specialized solvent maybe?
I have found that if the gasoline and ambient temperature are in the 90 degree range (F), the dome falls off clean, especially if soaked over 4 hours (typically falls off around 2 hours). Also the gas needs to be fresh. It takes so little gasoline to accomplish it, I’m sure they’ve built a tank and do many emitters at a time. Then a rinse tank to soak and clean off the gas and they’re up and running.
The few lights I’ve done for friends I’ve had the de-domes come out beautifully clean, while I tent to rush my own and they aren’t quite as nice. But now I mostly use the heat method, in the light using the heat of the die itself while on Turbo mode. This takes so little time and works so nicely that it’s about the only way I do the de-dome’s anymore.
The hot de-dome usually leaves some of the dome material around the bond wires and I leave it there to help support em, and so as not to break them in trying to be too picky.
I totally destroyed the stock XM-L2 in my Courui D01 I bought from Gearbest recently. I was trying to squeeze the dome off. No heat, no gasoline. I thought I’d be cool and just rip it off the top. Obviously, that didn’t work, but it was fun trying! Large chunks of the phosphor coating stuck to the dome. I never did find the bond wires. I couldn’t see them on the die, nor on the bottom of the dome. I never thought silicone could stick so well to anything! Well, it was stuck good to that XM-L2 die! Maybe next time, I’ll try gasoline.