I would take two of the cheap ones. I would want to drill my own holes anyway and using a really good thermal epoxy to set the pill in place will work just as well as threaded anyway.
Ya know, in the back of my mind I was thinking to myself, "what would I do if I was only making the batch for me?"
I think the answer is leaning more and more toward this. Just an aluminum sin with some good mass. Go super BLF on the deal and cut the price as deep as humanly possible..
Especially with the use of a large copper MCPCB (31mm) I think the heat is being "conducted" excessively well already. Once its pulled from the emitter and spread out the next step is to dissipate it right.
Option 4?? The BLF EXTREME??
Just the T shaped sink like in option one, but made from aluminum.
Optional pre drilled holes for couple bucks more fore the people who want it?
Like $8.50 maybe?
Pre drilled holes add $5
+1 VOB! 
. I got a bunch of your copper pills, and some others. I think the mass is great - well over stock, but not so sure of the copper vs. alum. The weight of these lights is considerably more than stock - gives them a quality feel but the weight is just that more to lug around. I think a well designed alum heat sink would work maybe just as well, or at least close. Don't think anyone has done, or published, any direct head to head comparisons in a real practical modded light, so I don't really know for sure. comfy has been implying alum is as good as copper - for me, I am tending to believe him more and more. Also it's just whatever is easier to work with, or what's available. I like that copper can be shaped, formed, and soldered of course.
But for this - made custom just for this light, and thinking can be mounted solidly, alum would be pretty darn good.
I bought one of the Maxtoch boards specifically for use with the Courui……so if I copper pill can be made that will be compatible I am in.
id be in for one in aluminum option#1
I would also rather have the really cheap aluminum. I have a copper threaded pill (bucket) in a SRK and it’s really cool but I have done my own aluminum “pills” and my results were very close. I had planned on posting the results a while back but I haven’t made another SRK that is exactly identical to the copper one so the results wouldn’t really be accurate.
I have also been wondering about the effectiveness of a heatsink vs thermal transfer to the outside of the light. The mass of the copper heatsink would keep it from heating up super fast but what happens after that? Once that copper block gets hot it stays hot and it gets hot fast enough anyway.
Cree Trifecta, XP-G2 vs XM-L2 vs MT-G2
I did this with Convoy C8’s, back in January. Compared them with the stock pill, and with Ryan’s copper pill.
I’m in for a cheapo aluminum design. No holes please! This will finally allow me to get a D01.
I'd be in for option 4! Probably without holes.
-Garry
That was great comparative data collected for sure, but it's not the same as being considered here. To do a valid comparison for this case (alum vs copper in a well designed heat sink), you would have needed a custom aluminum pill made to the same exact dimensions as Ryan's copper pill. I think that spreadsheet only had MT-G2 comparative data as well, which is fine, but limited, though you could consider it the worse case because the MT-G2 is probably the highest heat generating emitter.
No bothering doing a comparison, the output differences will be measured in 10th of percents. With such a massive heatpath to the shell, copper is the worst choice, aluminium is cheaper, easier to machine, more lightweight, and anyone with even a hand drill (who has still one? ;-) ) can make their own wire-holes.
djozz’s test (as always) XM-L2 on different type/setting of board. In case he forget about this test 
I see the point about a stock aluminum pill as compared to an optimized copper one. The stock pill leaves a lot to be desired in most cases.
I don’t see the point about being able to drill holes at home in aluminum only. I’ve used a cordless hand drill many times to drill wire holes through copper, the copper being an inch or more in depth. Even angling the holes to bring the wires in from a larger outer diameter to the smaller driver pocket. Having also drilled the same size holes in 6061 T6 Al, I don’t see that there’s a whole lot of difference in the process.
Easy is, I guess, a matter of perspective. Having dug house slab beams in ground filled with flint stone and tree roots in the middle of a hot Texas summer, among other things, I guess I have a skewed perspective on things that are “hard to do”.
And for the record, there’s a lot more covered in my Trifecta spreadsheet than the MT-G2.
I’m in for the BLF Extreme version (Option 4). This will be my first mod, so the cheaper the better; never know what I might break! My Courui D01 is on the way…
Option 3 looks perfect for my Maxtoch
I would be interested in option #1
For those of you considering a push fit, I found this little adaptor ring on ebay, it’s actually for a camera but fits perfectly for the thread inside the courui, just above the led emitter shelf, if the copper pill wasn’t threaded (and ever so slightly looser) you could screw this little baby down on top of it to hold it securely? Take a look - here
Like I say I bought one already and it fits fine. This way it would be way easier to take in and out for testing etc.
Interested in aluminum #4…
Good find, G0OSE.
This could come in quite handy, as even with the stock pill, some members have reported that the threads dis-engage when the pill is flipped, so they have not been able to tighten it properly.
GOOSE that is awesome. I cant believe you actually found something that will fit that exact diameter. I never even would have looked.