I bought one of the Maxtoch boards specifically for use with the Courui……so if I copper pill can be made that will be compatible I am in.
id be in for one in aluminum option#1
I would also rather have the really cheap aluminum. I have a copper threaded pill (bucket) in a SRK and it’s really cool but I have done my own aluminum “pills” and my results were very close. I had planned on posting the results a while back but I haven’t made another SRK that is exactly identical to the copper one so the results wouldn’t really be accurate.
I have also been wondering about the effectiveness of a heatsink vs thermal transfer to the outside of the light. The mass of the copper heatsink would keep it from heating up super fast but what happens after that? Once that copper block gets hot it stays hot and it gets hot fast enough anyway.
Cree Trifecta, XP-G2 vs XM-L2 vs MT-G2
I did this with Convoy C8’s, back in January. Compared them with the stock pill, and with Ryan’s copper pill.
I’m in for a cheapo aluminum design. No holes please! This will finally allow me to get a D01.
I'd be in for option 4! Probably without holes.
-Garry
That was great comparative data collected for sure, but it's not the same as being considered here. To do a valid comparison for this case (alum vs copper in a well designed heat sink), you would have needed a custom aluminum pill made to the same exact dimensions as Ryan's copper pill. I think that spreadsheet only had MT-G2 comparative data as well, which is fine, but limited, though you could consider it the worse case because the MT-G2 is probably the highest heat generating emitter.
No bothering doing a comparison, the output differences will be measured in 10th of percents. With such a massive heatpath to the shell, copper is the worst choice, aluminium is cheaper, easier to machine, more lightweight, and anyone with even a hand drill (who has still one? ;-) ) can make their own wire-holes.
djozz’s test (as always) XM-L2 on different type/setting of board. In case he forget about this test 
I see the point about a stock aluminum pill as compared to an optimized copper one. The stock pill leaves a lot to be desired in most cases.
I don’t see the point about being able to drill holes at home in aluminum only. I’ve used a cordless hand drill many times to drill wire holes through copper, the copper being an inch or more in depth. Even angling the holes to bring the wires in from a larger outer diameter to the smaller driver pocket. Having also drilled the same size holes in 6061 T6 Al, I don’t see that there’s a whole lot of difference in the process.
Easy is, I guess, a matter of perspective. Having dug house slab beams in ground filled with flint stone and tree roots in the middle of a hot Texas summer, among other things, I guess I have a skewed perspective on things that are “hard to do”.
And for the record, there’s a lot more covered in my Trifecta spreadsheet than the MT-G2.
I’m in for the BLF Extreme version (Option 4). This will be my first mod, so the cheaper the better; never know what I might break! My Courui D01 is on the way…
Option 3 looks perfect for my Maxtoch
I would be interested in option #1
For those of you considering a push fit, I found this little adaptor ring on ebay, it’s actually for a camera but fits perfectly for the thread inside the courui, just above the led emitter shelf, if the copper pill wasn’t threaded (and ever so slightly looser) you could screw this little baby down on top of it to hold it securely? Take a look - here
Like I say I bought one already and it fits fine. This way it would be way easier to take in and out for testing etc.
Interested in aluminum #4…
Good find, G0OSE.
This could come in quite handy, as even with the stock pill, some members have reported that the threads dis-engage when the pill is flipped, so they have not been able to tighten it properly.
GOOSE that is awesome. I cant believe you actually found something that will fit that exact diameter. I never even would have looked.
OMG I did something useful! lol! I spotted it a while ago and ordered it to construct a shelf with (long winded plan) but anyway saw a real handy use for it so thought I’d share. Turns out it’s ideal to tighten the loose fitting shlef down.
Using this with a slightly loose unthreaded copper pill would not only be better, but cheaper I’d imagine as it wouldn’t require threading. Well, that’s what I think anyway lol!
Also as this diameter is a standard photography size, theres plenty of bits and bobs on ebay, I suspect it’s the same with other sizes of thread - may be worth a look.
Nice find there! What is the inside diameter of the adapter ring?
Edit. 39mm, it says on the specs!
OK guys here is the latest. I shopped around on Etsy ( thanks for the link TomE) and found a seller who wills stamp us some relatively thick copper discs.
I asked if we could get 41mm diameter in a 12 gauge thickness.
The reason I asked for the 12G is its almost exactly the same thickness of the factory plate which we know has been proven to be the correct height with an MCPCB still on top of it. I belive copper in 12G should be .108" thick and the full thickness of the factory plate is .116"
I asked for the 41mm diameter because this is just narrow enough to pass the threads on the neck of the light.
My theory on it is that once it sits at the bottom there will be just enough play to get the emitter perfectly centered. This way we can reflow the MCPCBs to the sink for a direct thermal path.
Then we can just use the camera rings to hold the sink in. Best of all this means NO Twisting of the wires.
I have PM'd the seller to make sure about the true measurement of the 12G copper. I inqured about only 10 pieces and was able to get the special size. I will also ask if she will make an open listing on the site so if others are interested they can purchase. If they dont want to list them as singles I will order extra for other interested people.
Right now it looks like the cost per piece would be only about $2.50-$3.50 plus shipping.
What do you guys think?