Wow! A huge difference. Thank you for the pics.
Looks like my camera auto-corrected white balance to make white appear white, the LZ-1 is so intense that white paper glows vividly 365nm, so much so that if you’re shining the LZ-1 into a room that has little or no phosphorescent objects the light seems dim, then a single object that reacts actually lights up the room with it’s vivid glow!
I put the camera (Canon G1X) on a tripod in manual mode, 1/4 sec at f/5.6 and ISO1600 on a 2 second timed exposure then took these shots. 28mm equivalent, about 8’ distance to the box with USPS shipping label glowing brightly. The only thing I did in Lightroom 4 is add the watermark and downsize. Then downsized again from Photoshop after making the animated GIF.
I’ve got my LZ-1 set up at 700mA, the Kaidomain drop-in does 310mA off a Sanyo FJ cell, but drops with a 25R to 280mA. It’ll take multiple cells and the amperage drops accordingly.
That pic is actually somewhat misleading, as it makes the Kaidomain look better than what it is. lol If shining at the ground looking for bugs, the Kaidomain barely makes a hot spot…you just about have to bend over and get it closer to the ground. The LZ-1 easily makes an intense area of coverage while standing, even reaching out to the surrounding area so you can find something and then hone in on it.
And in the Solarforce L2m, I have an AHorton aspheric under the bezel such that unscrewing the head about a 1/4” focuses the die into a square pattern…dependent on distance of course. I used one of Mattaus’ copper shells and a copper spacer from RMM in the host. Just saying that my set-up is not the same as Dan’s. And I’m not running my LZ-1 as hard either. I’m using a standard Qlite with 6 chips removed.
How is the output compared to the Nitecore CU6? I note that Nitecore claims 3000mw of UV which seems pretty outrageous if true. The Nitecore looks a little more versatile too with the white mode and the RGB small LEDs.
http://www.nitecore.com/productDetail.aspx?id=104#.VF-CD2fYfQI
The way ck has it setup it’s probably at 1200mw. The emitter he’s using is a top quality emitter, true 365nm and inside a fantastic host.
I don’t have that Nitecore light so I won’t comment. Sorry ck your sales thread is coming off the rails.
No need to apologize, it’s a light forum, we’re talking about a light. As for the Nitecore question I own a CR6 (modded with an XP-L and red XP-E2) but the CU/CI6 were both to rich for my blood so I have no idea.
As for the house centipede’s, they get HUGE here, biggest one Ive seen was (absolutely no exaggeration) about 3.5-4” (bigger than my hand is wide). That thank god was outside, biggest one I’ve ever seen in the house was only about 2.5”, when I stepped on it it was so big it actually felt like stepping on a rock, it didn’t just flatten, had to scrape it off my shoe. I’ve been stung by one, I’d compare it to a honey bee sting, not wasp/jacket. The pain went away faster too, I’m guessing I react less to their venom.
I’ll have to look into it, should be able to no problem but I don’t have anything like that now so I’ll have to write it.
One thing is, the timer’s in these 8-bit uC’s arnt very accurate, the longer you leave it on (from a mode change) the more inaccurate it will be. Since you say “2-5 sec” I’m guessing you won’t mind tho.
Actually he said every 2-5min. Not sure if you read the wrong thing or wrote the wrong thing, but I figured I’d point it out before you do any work, just in case.
What wasn’t clear to me was whether Serifus wanted it to stay on constantly except for a blink to “off” every 2-5 min, or stay off constantly and blink on every 2-5min. Either way it seems strange to me!
The Nichia NVSU233A and the LED ENGIN LZ-1 are the top of the class emitters in the UV dept. Each claim ~1000mw output at 3.75-4.2Vf. Each claim a max 1A current.
The highest output UV emitter Nichia makes is the 4 die NC4U133A, at 1950mw output but with a 15-17.3Vf. 500mA max current.
The LED ENGIN LZ-1 is reputed to be the highest output 365nm UV emitter, winning awards for it’s output. And costs almost half of what the Nichia version costs, at $36 vs $69. These are both highly regarded 365nm UV light sources as used in the Medical field.
These things being said, as far as the 365nm range of UV lights go, I’m gonna have to call BS on Nitecore.
If a series of timed photographs were taken under UV, then put together in an animated GIF, it could be very interesting. 
The Nitecore claims to have a double sided AR coated lens. How do you figure out what spectrums to coat the lens when passing white light AND UV light through the same lens? Wouldn’t an AR coating for white light, BLOCK UV light?
Some other comparison pictures. Don’t know using what camera setup.
Previous sale using older version Nichia and 501 host selling quite well. Selling price is………
Wow, can’t do comparisons very well if your camera settings are in Auto mode.
The apparent visible light that he’s showing from the LZ-1 is undoubtedly due to the irradiance of the pieces he’s photographing and the camera white balance is correcting to show “white” as white. Like in my photo above. The white shipping label in my shot shows way whiter than what it was in reality, because I didn’t set the white balance.
I will retake photo’s and go full manual to show the difference.
These 2 pics are with a Canon 20D, manual mode, taken in RAW. No camera settings are applied in RAW, this is what the imaging sensor picked up. Shutter set to 1 second to approximate what the eye sees. ISO 100, f/4.5.
I measured 3.585Vf on mine with a 710mA current draw on an Efest Red V2 button top IMR18350 cell that’s seen some use. The Kaidomain light has a fresh Sanyo FJ cell.
Kaidomain P-60 drop in
LED ENGIN LZ-1
10’ away from the camera sensor. The bright orange disc on the book shelf is actually a slice of geode that has been impregnated with a purple die.
Base image under the overhead lights with camera in Auto WB, Auto Focus and JPEG large.
The UV also works well to see what tint bin an LED is, at a glance.
The MT-G2 P0 5000K
XM-L2, de-domed, U2 1A
XM-L2 U2 3C, domed
Cool white shows the lime green/yellowish tint, a neutral white shows more orange, warmer tints go a more red/orange under the 365nm UV.
I will take it, please PM me for instructions
Thank you for all of these photos Dale! Awesome job!
PM sent.
Here's a few pic's I took just now
my favorite nerf gun (mouseover for UV)
money
Daughters sock, water bottle with yellow highlighter felt tip in it, yellow glow powder (mouseover for UV)
XM_L2 T6 4C
And just a few more of the light
Congrats on selling the light, it is a great light!
But I do not really understand the current you get with a lineair driver (with no boosting). Either your led is way out of spec, or it is a different one than the LZ1-00UV00 that I used for my small zoomie mod, that claims the following (from the spec-sheet):
What I read here is that with a fully loaded 18650 with no voltage losses underway and no sag at all (so 4.2V) you can still expect only 800mA, in a normal flashlight situation less than 600mA. What do I miss?