Ok, if anybody wants to get the 3-cell TF-3T6, can add $2 for the extension at CNQG. So it's $47. I think if you ask him to test, he will test for ya....he's a flashaholic man. :D
Buy more then of course it could be a few dollars more for DHL shipping and stuff etc. Sometimes i even see EMS to be cheaper than registered air. MF does not do no negotiations.
Indeed they are but they are the 2-cell version. I got the 3-cell version which can be used in 2 or 3 cell configurations for more options. Looks like a good price though.
I disagree about that, the higher the voltage the less current needed, less current less heat.
The 3 cell would be the best pick and I would be careful about eBay lights and be concerned about genuine products
Now THIS is an interesting find. Thanks to Jarosf for reporting it. Welcome to BLF by the way, nice contribution to start!
So how does this work with 4xAA? Do you just jam them in there, or do you use some sort of container? Sorry, I don't own this light (yet), and I'm seriously interested in it now.
@Fran: Why can the 4xAA configuration only be used with the 3-cell version?
What about 1x18650?
So, where to buy this at if I want the 4xAA option? CNQ or Manafont?
My guess is that the 4 AA's are in series, so the 3 cell would be needed for the length. I too am very interested in this light. Ebay also sells the 3-cell version with the extension, but it's $57.00.
Last time I checked, Watts = Heat, not Amps. Current * Volts = Watts.
10Volts at 1 Amp = 10 Watts
1Volts at 10 Amps = 10 Watts
With LED's of today, roughly 80-85% of that energy will be wasted as heat, so a 10 Watt LED will generate about 8 or 8.5 Watts of Heat. Volts and amps are irrelevant by themselves, it's the product of them that matters.
That example is just wrong. You probably mean for the same power transmitting across a system, a higher voltage means less current and loss within a given piece of wire with set resistance (and also less voltage drop across the wire itself), not the system as a whole. The temperature of the wire is still inherently a function of the power dissipated within it, same as the system.
in the real world some times things differ from whats is schooled. my example was from a hobby charger main power leads.
i have a good example about the diffrence from 12v to 24v 4wd,s lighting, but its just to much for me to type are a hard days work.
ive always thought and was tought the higher the voltage or the higher the voltage can be maintained the less current draw that is needed to maintain its given requirments.
im crap with words but i think you might be getting what i mean. voltage sag might be a better example.
The confusion here is between the system as a whole and the wire. The wire is only one component within the system. The wire is dropping 24v. It has a set resistance and its power dissipation is directly proportionate to the current across it. So for a system that maintains a given power usage (like our driver above, which is specifically designed to function in this way, not as a natural consequence of a trivial circuit), it does mean that slightly less power will be dissipated across the wire. However, the vast majority of the power will still be going to the emitter.
ive been using my TrustFire TR-3T6 heaps and it is still going strong, been using it every night just about and last night we took it on another long bush walk spotting kangaroo,s and rabbits with my daughter on high all of the time.
today i tryed it on 6 AA Duracell 2650 mAh rechargeables i had to use all the extention tubes from the TR-3T6 3 x 18650 and my TR-1200 the current draw was 2.81 amps the batteries where fully charged and where 9 volt combined.
next to the torch is a 30 cm or 12 inch ruler to show the extra lengh it still felt solid, i could not notice any lose of light with my eyes and the torch still worked well but is close to the lenght of a 4 or 5 D maglite ? and could be use as a base ball bat lolls