I broke a corner of it off and one of the legs. Is there anyway to keep using the 105c with it (and get more output)? I know I could always just use it as a contact board and run the light entirely off the 105c, but I'd have to wire another one up that still has the MCU attached.
And so those ARE current sense resistors and NOT current limiting resistors? So going back to an FET would give me regulated output or not?
-Garry
On a 7135 driver loss of modes sometimes means the pwm pin is pulled high (usually because the led + pad is shorted to the pwm pin closest to D1) but a momentary switch should not be able to interrupt that. Is there anything else on the trace we think is the pwm that might affect the signal ? If there’s unwanted capacitance there might it not prevent the 7135’s from turning off the way they should?
I’ll tell you what I think:
I don’t think you have the ability to flash MCUs, but if you did you could use ToyKeeper’s STAR mod which features support for status LEDs. You’d just wire up the 105c to the status LEDs & their limiting resistors on the stock PCB.
I already threw the FET away and can't find it. Is there any easy cheap replacement (like an EBay listing?). Any FET work?
-Garry
Would the AOD510 from one of the DD boards work? It doesn’t look like you’ve done anything beyond wasting that one part.
Any decent DPAK FET which we’d use on a regular DD driver should work, AOD510 included.
RMM sells singles of IRFR3711ZTRPBF, that should be fine and I think it’s the cheapest option if you just want to purchase a single unit. Should be <$4 shipped.
I've ordered 2 FETs from Mountain (along with other parts to keep on hand). In the meantime, here are those higher res. photos I promised:
My final driver wiring after changing over to 22ga wires and removing the + wire (the PWM wire is the red):
Ground Wire on the Back Side Due to Thicker Area to Attach (and my stacked 7135):
Closeups of my stacked 7135;
Few views of being wired up to the main driver board with FET removed:
Really tough to show the wiring with so much in the way! And those photos were prior to me moving the ground wire to the other side of the sense resistors. This was the wiring that gave me no modes.
I'll post back when I get the FET and get it remounted.
-Garry
^ Sweet driver mod you got going there. That 7135 stack is just showing off. So many of us wish we could stack those that well.
Well it was sweet until it didn't work (you read that part, right?)! It was good practice though. And as I stated earlier, that was my first attempt at stacking 7135's and I found that to be a lot easier than attaching those darn 22ga wires! I never had that slave board fully functional to see if I ended up with the proper current level (i.e. that I didn't burn up any 7135s).
I tell you what though, I am enjoying the quality of photos I am getting out of a camera that I only paid $39 for!
-Garry
LOL. OK, semi-sweet driver mod. Or, sweet looking driver mod. What it lacks in functionality, it makes up in personality.
Or, I4W likes pictures and skim reads a lot.
Sorry about it not working yet. Looking at the wiring, it looks like you have it connected properly.
Poor Garry was led astray by a mad duck. The wiring looks exactly the way it should but unfortunately I was mistaken about how simple the swap would be. My bad. Once again, knowing a little will get you into more trouble than knowing nothing.
The perpetrator did not act alone. 
We’ll get garrybunk straight in the end.
…rewind to post #1 and do the sense resistor mod.
Lesson learned: KISS
True but you still learn more from mistakes than you do from things you already know. In a situation where failure is not an option kiss is more appropriate but not for something like this where you can go back to square one with little risk.
wight wrote:
. . . I don’t think you have the ability to flash MCUs, but if you did you could use ToyKeeper’s STAR mod which features support for status LEDs. You’d just wire up the 105c to the status LEDs & their limiting resistors on the stock PCB.
Do you know which modified version of STAR has this support? I searched for discussion on the topic, but didn't find any.
Yes. 
It’s the version discussed in comfychair’s Roche F6 Hacking thread.
She may have implemented the status LEDs in one or more of her other firmwares, but I know that they are present in this one for Helios-’s Ferrero Rocher DD driver for the F6: http://bazaar.launchpad.net/~toykeeper/flashlight-firmware/trunk/files/head:/ToyKeeper/Ferrero_Rocher/
^ Didn't search that thread. Searched the OSH Park and STAR threads. Thank you. :)
Got the new FET from RMM mounted. Now I'm gonna power up and check currents from battery pack and at LED wires.
Cruddy cell phone pic.
-Garry
Ok here are my measurements at 4.2v battery pack (2 cells parallel @ 4.01v)
off: 0.011A
low: 0.98A
Med:1.30A
High: 1.75A
Now meter in line with LED wires:
off: 0.000A
low: 0.81A
med: 1.33A
high: 1.81A
So I guess my LED measurements are higher because my battery pack wiring & connectors (maybe just my connectors I add to get inline measurements) are adding some resistance. Anyway, I'm pretty much back to stock output. What resistors would I stack / replace? Think my goal was about 3A on high (1.5A per emitter). I know I have R120's and think I have R500's. I have others but I'd have to look.
By the way, I'm correct that the 1.75A I measure gets cut in half for "per emitter" current, right?
Thanks,
-Garry