Stuff like this forced me to make a rule not to buy lights that are glued together or are otherwise not mod-able.
Having older XP-G and XP-E lights that are ripe to be upgraded to XP-L, XP-G2, …but can’t get them opened up? Yeah, most frustrating. Olight & Fenix are a couple that make nice lights but hard to get open without damage.
I would use an angle grinder to put some notches in the top, find a large screwdriver or something similar to hold it in place and use some vice grips on it
I am curious why you did not reach out to olight and tell them the tint is unacceptable
mine does not have the green tint problem, they must have used a different reflector on it, though i have not used it in probably a year or so, its still in its original box
Take a Nanjg 105C with DrJones electronic switch firmware (or star momentary firmware from RMM). File down the edges of the driver. This will then sit at the end of the pill rather than inside the pill.
File down the pill so the driver sits closer to the switch hole.
Discard the stock driver and switch. Buy a replacement microswitch (I found some tiny ones on Ebay for cheap that work well. Was only a few $ for 50 of them too). Glue the replacement microswitch to the top of the driver with a large amount of arctic alumina.
Then glue the new driver onto the end of the pill. Should be good to go.
I seem to remember reading extensively about this problem several months ago. The conclusion drawn at the time was that the green tint was a result of the AR coating.
It is quite noticeable on my S10 (XM-L); less so on my S15 (XM-L2). Comparing the two lenses there is definitely more of a purple hue visible on the S10. I don't have the S20.
if the bezel is non-removable anyway that doesn't seem to be much point in trying to work out how to change emitters or drivers to cure the problem.
Sorry to hear yours has been so stubborn DBSAR. I guess Olight really doesn't want customers messing with them. As you say, not much good in terms of making repairs if anything ever goes wrong.