I would use an angle grinder to put some notches in the top, find a large screwdriver or something similar to hold it in place and use some vice grips on it
I am curious why you did not reach out to olight and tell them the tint is unacceptable
I would use an angle grinder to put some notches in the top, find a large screwdriver or something similar to hold it in place and use some vice grips on it
I am curious why you did not reach out to olight and tell them the tint is unacceptable
To get the bezel off did you try one of those rubber pads from the grocery store?
1. Place pad in palm of left hand
2. Hold light in right hand and press bezel into the pad
3. Turn to unscrew bezel.
I’ve also used the same technique with indoor rubber stairway grip tape from Office Depot.
Not sure if this method would work on a glued bezel though. When did Olight start gluing their bezels?
To get the bezel off did you try one of those rubber pads from the grocery store?
1. Place pad in palm of left hand
2. Hold light in right hand and press bezel into the pad
3. Turn to unscrew bezel.I’ve also used the same technique with indoor rubber stairway grip tape from Office Depot.
- Cut a piece of grip tape.
- Stick it to the front of the bezel
- Hold light in right hand and press firmly into palm of left hand.
- Unscrew
- If you have trouble gripping the light, wrap a piece of grip tape around it too. Gives you much more gripping power.
Not sure if this method would work on a glued bezel though. When did Olight start gluing their bezels?
I think he has gone far beyond this already
I have one thats more then a year old and its glued
djozz:My Olight S20 has the green badness as well. I was going to swap the led at some point……
Sorry for your loss!
Swapping the LED wont fix the green tint.
I tried that with my S15 already with many emitters in it, ( various XM-Ls and XM-L2s, 3B, 4C, 3C, Warm Whites, and even tried XP-G2s, with and without the lens all give the nauseating green tint because of a poorly designed reflector angle. Once i swapped out the original reflector to a TIR optic in the S15, the tint is now perfect neutral white with a TIR optic and a 3B XM-L2.
mine does not have the green tint problem, they must have used a different reflector on it, though i have not used it in probably a year or so, its still in its original box
Bort: DBSAR: djozz:My Olight S20 has the green badness as well. I was going to swap the led at some point……
Sorry for your loss!
Swapping the LED wont fix the green tint.
I tried that with my S15 already with many emitters in it, ( various XM-Ls and XM-L2s, 3B, 4C, 3C, Warm Whites, and even tried XP-G2s, with and without the lens all give the nauseating green tint because of a poorly designed reflector angle. Once i swapped out the original reflector to a TIR optic in the S15, the tint is now perfect neutral white with a TIR optic and a 3B XM-L2.mine does not have the green tint problem, they must have used a different reflector on it, though i have not used it in probably a year or so, its still in its original box
The OP reflectored models were better than these new smooth reflector ones. This S20 with the smooth reflector is the worst green hue i ever seen from any flashlight.
let me check what mine is
bushwhacked:Aww man. You gotta have something bigger to shoot it with.
I have my moose hunting rifle. A Browning A-Bolt 300 Win. Mag.
I could put it on the target stand at the shooting range, and hit it with a 220-grain solid big-game load at 20 meters to see how it fares up.
My brother has a rem700 300wm. That’s some power there. Put the O back in Olight. Much better than some buckshot.
djozz:My Olight S20 has the green badness as well. I was going to swap the led at some point……
Sorry for your loss!
Swapping the LED wont fix the green tint.
I tried that with my S15 already with many emitters in it, ( various XM-Ls and XM-L2s, 3B, 4C, 3C, Warm Whites, and even tried XP-G2s, with and without the lens all give the nauseating green tint because of a poorly designed reflector angle. Once i swapped out the original reflector to a TIR optic in the S15, the tint is now perfect neutral white with a TIR optic and a 3B XM-L2.
I think swapping the LED does fix the tint as long as you swap in a Nichia 219.
For CREE LEDs changing the lens helps, but doesn’t go all the way. Sounds like a TIR is the way to go.
mine is slight OP, i’m glad to see its still working, and the tint is NW
Bort:mine is slight OP, i’m glad to see its still working, and the tint is NW
I just tried a battery back in mine and it it toast. The driver is doing the same thing my original S20 did, it now only glows and flickers, even dimmer than the moonlight mode.
Off to the trash it will go.
thre are no suitable replacement drivers out there?
Bort: DBSAR: Bort:mine is slight OP, i’m glad to see its still working, and the tint is NW
I just tried a battery back in mine and it it toast. The driver is doing the same thing my original S20 did, it now only glows and flickers, even dimmer than the moonlight mode.
Off to the trash it will go.there are no suitable replacement drivers out there?
Not for this, because of its compact side-switch design. I tried to find something when the first S20 i had failed while i was using it, but nothing was available even close to fitting this light.
i firmly believe these S-series lights are just very expensive disposable flashlights.
thats a real kick in the arse, you should still hold onto them in case drivers become available in the future
I feel your pain too. Some may think we’re crazy, destroying a $$ light in pursuit of a better tint.
…
Not for this, because of its compact side-switch design. I tried to find something when the first S20 i had failed while i was using it, but nothing was available even close to fitting this light.
i firmly believe these S-series lights are just very expensive disposable flashlights.
Try this for a driver:
Take a Nanjg 105C with DrJones electronic switch firmware (or star momentary firmware from RMM). File down the edges of the driver. This will then sit at the end of the pill rather than inside the pill.
File down the pill so the driver sits closer to the switch hole.
Discard the stock driver and switch. Buy a replacement microswitch (I found some tiny ones on Ebay for cheap that work well. Was only a few $ for 50 of them too). Glue the replacement microswitch to the top of the driver with a large amount of arctic alumina.
Then glue the new driver onto the end of the pill. Should be good to go.
Give yourself a challenge, shoot it right in that green eye.
I seem to remember reading extensively about this problem several months ago. The conclusion drawn at the time was that the green tint was a result of the AR coating.
It is quite noticeable on my S10 (XM-L); less so on my S15 (XM-L2). Comparing the two lenses there is definitely more of a purple hue visible on the S10. I don't have the S20.
if the bezel is non-removable anyway that doesn't seem to be much point in trying to work out how to change emitters or drivers to cure the problem.
Sorry to hear yours has been so stubborn DBSAR. I guess Olight really doesn't want customers messing with them. As you say, not much good in terms of making repairs if anything ever goes wrong.
Well, that disproves that theory then!
I haven't heard that about the reflectors before. You'd think other makers would fall into a similar trap then?
Again, just to muddy the waters, my S10 with LOP reflector is greener than my S15 with smooth. Which seems to be exactly the opposite of your S20.
Pics…seriously
Haven’t others modified an Olight S20 before…give us measurements of the driver and whatnot
I guarantee you there are some her that can whip you up a board
Is that a boost circuit AA/AAA type light?
OK gotcha
That is one HELL of a funky driver ain’t it