Take a Nanjg 105C with DrJones electronic switch firmware (or star momentary firmware from RMM). File down the edges of the driver. This will then sit at the end of the pill rather than inside the pill.
File down the pill so the driver sits closer to the switch hole.
Discard the stock driver and switch. Buy a replacement microswitch (I found some tiny ones on Ebay for cheap that work well. Was only a few $ for 50 of them too). Glue the replacement microswitch to the top of the driver with a large amount of arctic alumina.
Then glue the new driver onto the end of the pill. Should be good to go.
I seem to remember reading extensively about this problem several months ago. The conclusion drawn at the time was that the green tint was a result of the AR coating.
It is quite noticeable on my S10 (XM-L); less so on my S15 (XM-L2). Comparing the two lenses there is definitely more of a purple hue visible on the S10. I don't have the S20.
if the bezel is non-removable anyway that doesn't seem to be much point in trying to work out how to change emitters or drivers to cure the problem.
Sorry to hear yours has been so stubborn DBSAR. I guess Olight really doesn't want customers messing with them. As you say, not much good in terms of making repairs if anything ever goes wrong.
I have never owned a Olight. I have been thinking hard, lately, about that new rechargeable one. But, I can’t mentally handle that green tint. I have it on a few lights from SF that suffer from this affliction! That’s enough. I have designated those as hard use lights, and to wife & vehicle usage only.
So, I guess I am a official member of the TEGT (That’s Enough Green Tint) Party.
Thanks for the heads up. I had no idea the reflector could cause so much “damage”.
I bought an Olight S20 off eBay a few months back. Got a real good price, too! It has a smooth reflector (which I like better than OP) and the tint seems to be perfect to my untrained eye (well, untrained, yet I consider myself to have a good sense of color). It is a nice neutral white with no yellow, green, purple, or any other color tint. I just tried it to make sure. I pointed it at a piece of white printer paper and turned it on in moon mode - then lo - then med - then high. In none of the modes did it have an unpleasant color. I used to always prefer cool white for the brighter looking output, but this light has changed my mind. Now, I think I prefer the cooler side of neutral white or maybe the neutral-er side of cool white.
My S20 had a bad tint as well. +1 for using a narrow color bin Olight/4sevens.
The bezel on my s20 was stupid tight, but I didn’t see any glue. I did have to use a vice to remove it though. My light got just a little buggered up, but now sporting a neutral in the 4A range.
I put the light long ways in the vice, with a piece of rubber on the bottom and the bezel. I tightened the vice down and used a wrench wrapped in a belt to turn the light. I had to further tighten the vice until the bezel finally broke loose. It did leave a few marks on the bezel but not too bad.