Is that a boost circuit AA/AAA type light?
OK gotcha
That is one HELL of a funky driver ain’t it
What, it can’t stand up to a measley rifle round?
Brian, it might be easier to make a stacked linear or DD driver using one of those edge mount switches than to try and duplicate that thing.
Yeah, what a cluster hump of design…definitely not an amateur build for sure
I have never owned a Olight. I have been thinking hard, lately, about that new rechargeable one. But, I can’t mentally handle that green tint. I have it on a few lights from SF that suffer from this affliction! That’s enough. I have designated those as hard use lights, and to wife & vehicle usage only.
So, I guess I am a official member of the TEGT (That’s Enough Green Tint) Party.
Thanks for the heads up. I had no idea the reflector could cause so much “damage”.
I bought an Olight S20 off eBay a few months back. Got a real good price, too! It has a smooth reflector (which I like better than OP) and the tint seems to be perfect to my untrained eye (well, untrained, yet I consider myself to have a good sense of color). It is a nice neutral white with no yellow, green, purple, or any other color tint. I just tried it to make sure. I pointed it at a piece of white printer paper and turned it on in moon mode - then lo - then med - then high. In none of the modes did it have an unpleasant color. I used to always prefer cool white for the brighter looking output, but this light has changed my mind. Now, I think I prefer the cooler side of neutral white or maybe the neutral-er side of cool white.
Ahh, interesting. My ST-25 doesn’t have green tint but I wondered if it was a bin lottery since Olight no longer publish info bins used.
Sorry to hear this DBSAR.
Put it aside till you recover. Might be able to do something with it at a later time.
Olight, Glued Threads Are Evil. You are losing our sales.
Instead of tossing it, please do take a video of it being shot. Bring more attention to what we think of Olight’s cemented threads and puke tints.
and here I thought we’re on a budget blf
Sorry for the problem. May be a diffuser can be useful as compromise, rather than throw it.
My S20 had a bad tint as well. +1 for using a narrow color bin Olight/4sevens.
The bezel on my s20 was stupid tight, but I didn’t see any glue. I did have to use a vice to remove it though. My light got just a little buggered up, but now sporting a neutral in the 4A range.
I put the light long ways in the vice, with a piece of rubber on the bottom and the bezel. I tightened the vice down and used a wrench wrapped in a belt to turn the light. I had to further tighten the vice until the bezel finally broke loose. It did leave a few marks on the bezel but not too bad.
I just designed myself an S10 driver, it’s a double stack and the lower (contact) board holds an SMD switch at the correct heigth.
There must be a lot of variation in S20s.
I have two - a first gen XM-L with the soft white switch that was quite green when I first received it. With use (probably about two recharges worth), the green has actually lessened and it appears more yellow for reasons I don’t understand. It was awful to start with. Last night, after reading this thread, I grabbed a sheet of rubber and simply unscrewed the bezel with only hand power. The s.n. is C179248
The other is a second gen XM-L2, with the hard black switch. It has an OP reflector similar to the first, but a visibly coarser texture. This one was much less green right from new, and calling it ‘neutral’ would not be much of a stretch. I was also able to simply unscrew the bezel with hand power and my trusty rubber sheet. S.N. on this one is D10110767.
While I’ve certainly used them, I can’t say I’ve used them very hard. Mostly its been night stand duty, sleepy trips to the bathroom and trips out to the shop and back after dark, but so far neither has misbehaved. The only oddity I’ve noticed is that an iPad will shut the newer one off you get it right up close. I don’t know if it’s RFI or if its the magnetic attachment on the cover that does it.
After reading this, I just tried - and succeeded in unscrewing the bezel off mine with just my bare hands! Not even a rubber sheet needed here. Smooth reflector, XM-L2, SN is E05040005. I’m not gonna try to get the GITD O-ring and AR lens out right now because I’m at work with no tools nearby to fix something if I screw it up.
Thats awesome, ask them what cells they recommend then point out you have the same cells
This is the problem with china, they earn their poor reputation and the customer is left holding the bag 
that is pathetic. I see a bunch of BLFers descending on O headquarters with pitchforks and fire-on-a-stick.
Let’s roll!
Oh wait…wrong torches 
A glued together light that doesn’t work is not worth much, but there might be something salvageable, don’t empty the trash.
So… The tint can be fixed by replacing the lens. The green comes from the nasty AR coating. The lens from a UF-602C works nicely. Olight apparently improved this in the 2013 models, but I don’t know how much, or if they later changed it back.
The driver can be replaced by a MELD driver from tterev3, though I’m not sure if he has any which don’t also require replacing the emitter.
Edit: Or, it seems that Cereal_Killer has a new driver which should work. 
FWIW, here is the lens from my 2012 Olight S10 (left) next to the lens from a cheap UF-602C host (right). The AR coating on the Olight lens turns everything green, even the white fabric it’s resting on. OTF tint went from green to white simply by swapping in a cheaper non-AR lens.
The green-ness splits the different wavelengths of color so that green goes through but blue gets diverted off to the side. This can be seen in the form of a blue ring around the edge of the spill:
The green isn’t visible in that pic due to white balance and overexposure, but it’s there (and it was pretty distinctly green).
I’ve had this issue with other premium-brand lights too, such as the EagleTac D25A. Its AR lens produces a horrible green tint with a bright blue ring around the edge. It totally killed the CRI on my D25A-219, which defeated the entire point of the light. I suspect this is also why Zebralights have so often had a green tint, and why people report their high-CRI Zebralights (SC62d, etc) just don’t look as white as a Nichia 219. Stupid AR coating.
I’ve found premium-brand lights a lot less interesting lately, in part because of this… and also because they are generally a lot less mod-friendly.