Olight Javelot M2X-UT Review *Pic Heavy* ---===11/19/14 Updates===--- Dual Power Supply Capability

The two wires are for thermal step-down, it's listed in the specs as being able to step down to protect it from overheating.

Is that for your version- XML?

Even though mine has the same Two wires when Selfbuilt did the review I remember him saying NO step down of any kind. He was surprised and did not agree w/ it!

Here is an excerpt from Selfbuilt pertaining to that!

All M3x-series lights are heavily driven on Hi, with no automatic step-down feature. As such, I recommend you do not run the light on Hi for extended periods of time on primary CR123A or 2x18500. On Hi, the light is really best suited for 2x18650.

As such, I continue to recommend you do not run any of the M3x-series lights on Hi for extended periods on 3x or 4xCR123A cells. I would also recommend Olight introduce a step-down feature in this light, as they have in a number of their other models (e.g. the recent M22 and S20).

On max, the M3X has very high output for the class, with no sign of any sort of step-down.

I think Battery[more like I know because I have seen misinformation by them and others!] Junction Posts some of the info. on their own when it was not part of the specifications from the manufacturer!

Key Features:
  • Two brightness levels (300 and 1,000 lumens), plus a strobe mode, controlled by a mode selector built into the head
  • Multi-function clicky tail switch with momentary activation and on/off
  • Latest top-of-the-line, highest-performing, single-die CREE XM-L2 LED
  • Aircraft-grade aluminum body with anti-scratch type III hard anodizing and crenelated stainless steel striking bezel and tail
  • Extended tube accommodates an additional battery to prolong run time
  • Reverse polarity protection to prevent improper battery installation and thermal management to avoid overheating

2 CR123 cells are 6V, 2 18650 cells are 8.4V. 2 18500 cells are also 8.4V. 18500 cells are usually less capable of high current discharge.

But the specs as quoted on Olightworld.com say the ANSI ratings are achieved with 2 18650 3400mAh cells.

Why Selfbuilt would recommend to not run the light on high using the 2 lesser cells is beyond me.

* yes I know it uses 3 of the CR123 cells, which is 9V, but those little cells...even 3 at a time...can't deliver the amperage the bigger 18650's can. Or that's my experience anyway, could be wrong. Shouldn't matter, as the light is supposed to be digitally current regulated.

And from Optics Planet, specifically on the XM-L version

Specifications for Olight Triton M3X Flashlight - 700 Lumens:

Output Mode 1: 700 Lumens
Output Mode 2: 60 Lumens
Runtime Mode 1: 1hr 10min
Runtime Mode 2: 15hr
Distance: 475m
Intensity: 56500cd
Water Resistant: 2m
Impact Resistant: 1.5m
Light Source: CREE XM-L LED
Battery: 3x CR123A or 4x CR123S/2x 18650 w/ Extended Tube
Length: 211mm
Diameter: 63mm
Weight w/o Batteries: 266g

Features of M3X 700 Lumen Triton LED Flashlight:

  • Crenelated bezel head and tail provided for close quarter combat
  • Multi-scattering slot design to protect LED and electronic components
  • Intelligent temperature control system to prevent flashlights overheated
  • Highly water resistant to IPX-8
  • Smooth reflector offers perfect beam and long throw
  • Shatter and scratch resistant and anti-reflective coated ultra clear lens
  • Friendly user interface - rotate the head change modes.
  • Operated by 2x18650 with extra extended tube to prolong the runtime
  • Removable stainless steel clip
  • Mountable on weapons with compatible weapon mount

Who knows! One of them is wrong!! :~

If I had to make a choice I would believe selfbuilt! What he said has been my experience w/ the light. One of the reasons I liked it so much. FULL BORE! No worries about loss of power or these 5/10 minute step downs!

This is a question not sarcasm! Are these the same as a step down?

-Intelligent temperature control system to prevent flashlights overheated.

-Thermal management to avoid overheating.

Maybe it is more/better heat sinking? If there is an actual “step down” of any kind usually manufacturers state it that way?

All I know is the M3X XML2 could run on max for an hour w/ out heat being an issue, MAX output sustained regardless of season! There is NO step down,maybe “Thermally managed” and “Step down” are Two different things!!! 8)

I think I analyzed and thought of everything I could on the topic!

Now wait!! If the flashlight never gets hot enough It will continue Unregulated on MAX with NO STEP DOWN or loss of max output!,I know, that is because it is thermally regulated!!

I rest my case ,Sir! :bigsmile:

Question for DBCstm, how did you managed to open the driver section without damaging the body? I have a M3X (the 1000 lm xml2 version) and a M2X is on my way too (ordered today, also due to your great review!)

On M3X I tried with hands and work gloves to improve grip but with no success.

Not really willing to use tools, to avoid nicks and scratches if possible...

Did you heat the head?

I used a pair of strap wrenches. The ones I have are called “Boa Constrictor” and I believe they came from Amazon.

The threads had a blue substance, probably lock tite, and it was very stubborn coming apart. I’m more stubborn.

Good Day,

FYI:

Olight M2X-UT Javelot Flashlight Extension Body Tube U$6.69

Best Regards,

George

Are you a mind reader? Cause I’ve been looking really hard at this light and thinking “MT-G2 QO”.

I almost did it yesterday but the things such a nice thrower I took pause. But wouldn’t it really shine with a 10A big emitter? :bigsmile: 12A? LOL

Thanks for the link, appreciate it. (My wife, on the other hand, hates you. Just sayin…)

Thought You would be interested....

MT-G2 standing by…

Looking forward to seeing the end result (& the Superb work that led to it)...

Isnt the m3x the original stl-v2/maxtoch etc?

Man things change so fast in this industry. So awesome

Chris

Ok, yesterday I opened up the M3x Triton and found that the head is deeper because of the difference in driver. The driver does have the wires attached to the big star, those 2 little red wires out on the edge, and the star is aluminum. And the pill is hollow, there’s nothing under the big star! It sits on a fairly wide ledge though. I will be re-doing that, for sure.

I pulled the star out and heat it up to get the XM-L off, put a de-domed XM-L2 U2 on it. There is a row of sense resistors, a long row, like 7 or 8 of em. Most were R100’s but not all, there was a 2R00 among em and a couple of others. I took a stab in the dark and stacked 2 R056. Couldn’t get it to work outside of the body to test it, so I put it back together and tested it on 2 Sanyo UR18650FJ cells from a laptop pull. 2.56A at the tail…. is that double to the emitter? Or near it? With Efest 35A fully charged and rested it showed 2.43A at the tail.

Output is 1135 OTF at start, 1014 at 30 seconds. 196Kcd and 885.44M throw. So I did gain considerable lumens from the stock XM-L at 700, if the tail amperage is indicative of around 5A to the emitter, then it’s doing about what I’d expect except that the throw isn’t where I would have thought.

Still on the stock driver though, so it still has the twist head for mode changes. So, the dilemma on my hands now is which one do I modify with an MT-G2? If I’m going to have to create a large copper sink for the Triton anyway, since it has a hollow pill, then I might as well do that one with the big emitter. I did get the extension tube for the Javelot, but of course I have it set up now to run single cell only. And it’s so truly potent I’d kind of hate changing it, the smallest thrower I have at anywhere near that throw level.

Might just sell this Triton in it’s new and improved state and do something else with the MT-G2…decisions decisions decisions.

Anyone looking for a bumped but otherwise stock Olight M3S Triton?

Sounds exactly like an stl-v2/6 with the hollow pill, but near 200kcd is doing well, mine is only 150kcd.

What are the markings on the driver?

And are you thinking it has a thermocouple input? Could be bypassed?

Chris

And has the two wires connected to the star with some kind of component also on the star just beside the 2 wires. I don’t know about all that stuff.

Will be a type of thermocouple, as the heat changes the resistance increases etc.

Interesting that its built into the star though

Chris

Someone tell me how well the 2Xshooter measures up to the M2X? In brightness and throw, how does it measure up stock?

Stock, the Javelot is the better thrower pretty solidly. That’s considering my Triton was the older XM-L version.

I tried bumping power on the Triton a bit more and , uh, well, lets just say that the newer XM-L2’s don’t like 8A.