Buried Treasure...

23 posts / 0 new
Last post
Dimbo The Blinky
Dimbo The Blinky's picture
Offline
Last seen: 6 months 2 weeks ago
Joined: 11/27/2012 - 09:46
Posts: 1626
Location: The Indigo State, USA, Earth
Buried Treasure...

Howdy!

One thing I guess everyone here has already noticed is the HUGE FROG-BARKING BOATLOAD of Precious Jewels of Information in these Threads.

What I find somewhat disturbing, is the OT posts — the “oh-by-the-way” comments which are likewise fully loaded with Valuable Information. They don’t “fit” with the Thread Topics, and often don’t contain “buzzwords”, making them almost impossible to find later. “Disturbing”, Dimbo, you dim bulb? You mean besides your odd archaic Grammar? Whazzat?

I’m disturbed by waste. To me, these OT treasures are wasted, buried in threads long-dead. The valuable Threads are preserved, as “Stickies”, but IMNERHO there is as much Treasure in these odd OT posts as there are in the Stickies — nevermind the unloved threads in which they appear.

WHAT I PROPOSE, then, is a polite request to the Community: I’m starting this Thread as a place to collect the Buried Treasure posts. Not whole threads, except by link; but original posts, Off- or On-topic, which might not be noticed in the threads in which they appear. I only ask that you guys who like to put up the monstrous block-quotes just Stop. The Treasure isn’t in there. It’s the line or paragraph or whole, primary posts where some Very Useful tip has been laid out, which won’t be seen again unless you bring it here.

Not “tooting my own horn”, but to lead by example, I’m going to reserve Post #2 for one small illustration of the concept. Then I’m going Prospecting (as time permits, of course)!

My proposed format would be a link to the primary Thread or Post, followed by a carefully-trimmed block-quote of the Treasure/Tip itself, perhaps with following commentary (great place to put up useful search-by keywords!!) by the Prospector who brings it here.

Thank you for considering my idea, and for dredging up Treasures for us all to enjoy!

Dimbo the Blinky

“There is no darkness but ignorance.”

Edited by: Dimbo The Blinky on 07/18/2014 - 14:19
Dimbo The Blinky
Dimbo The Blinky's picture
Offline
Last seen: 6 months 2 weeks ago
Joined: 11/27/2012 - 09:46
Posts: 1626
Location: The Indigo State, USA, Earth

In thread: http://www.budgetlightforum.com/node/32747

Dimbo The Blinky wrote:
SWMBO makes me holsters when I need them, so I can relate. PS: SWMBO Top Tip: if your wife can sew a line along the inside of your pants pocket(s) just far enough from the edge to make a tube — leave the bottom open so coins, etc. can fall out — then you can slip your roll-o-nickels torch into the “tube”. This one SWMBO trick put ALL my holsters in the drawer!! If yours can make the stitch just “long enough”, to fit this one, you can hook the clip over the stitch line inside your pants.

Just trying to help…

I particularly enjoy walking into a customer’s site with empty hands and no “belt cancer”, then when a good light is needed, it “suddenly appears” in my hand…

Buzzwords: HOLSTER, TUBE LIGHT, EDC, CARRY, POCKET, MODIFICATION

“There is no darkness but ignorance.”

ImA4Wheelr
Offline
Last seen: 1 month 3 weeks ago
Joined: 02/03/2013 - 14:51
Posts: 7933
Location: SC

Nice thread idea.  Post one is a great example.  I forgot about that tip and wanted to try it.

Here is a very informative thread by dchomak about finding good deals at Lowe's and other big box stores.

http://budgetlightforum.com/node/22617

AlexGT
AlexGT's picture
Offline
Last seen: 4 hours 43 min ago
Joined: 06/07/2012 - 17:39
Posts: 4488
Location: Texas

Charging clamp for batteries, bought very cheap at harbor freight, make sure the clamps are plastic so you don’t short out the battery, put a metal screw on each clamp and use.



ImA4Wheelr
Offline
Last seen: 1 month 3 weeks ago
Joined: 02/03/2013 - 14:51
Posts: 7933
Location: SC

This post by Comfychair forever changed the way I look at (and use) my drill press:

Dimbo The Blinky
Dimbo The Blinky's picture
Offline
Last seen: 6 months 2 weeks ago
Joined: 11/27/2012 - 09:46
Posts: 1626
Location: The Indigo State, USA, Earth

I wanted to bump this thread, in hopes more people would share their discovered “buried treasure” here.

In the midst of a PM conversation about identifying laptop packs for scrounging, I said this:
==========
Okay, I’ll be blunt. Watt-Hour is a bullshit number.

All I (we?) care about is AMP-hours, because the amperes delivered over time is what’s important in an LED flashlight. When the manufacturer only gives you WH, that BS can be converted to a useful number, i.e. AMP-Hours by the Power Formula.

The point of using the math here is to know if you’ll be getting 6 or 9 18650s from a given Laptop Pack, and roughly what Capacity (in AMP-HOURS) you can expect from each 18650.

When they give you the AMP-Hours Capacity, you don’t have to bother with useless, BS Watt-Hours.

We haven’t even moved on the concept of ‘C’ (“Charge” or “Coulombs”) yet, which tells you how much Current a battery can flow (e.g. “1C”, which would be ~2.5A in your #A pack) in a given instant. That’s much more important that Watts, because if you have (e.g.) a 2.5A driver, which runs at 50% efficiency, your 18650s will need to deliver 5A to run it. This means your #A pack batteries will discharge through it at a 2C rate, which isn’t that hard, but 2000mAH 18650s (1C = 2A) may not please you since they’ll need to deliver >2.5C, which is asking a lot from LiIon. In other words, a discharge rate of 1C will usually give you the “Amps” for an Hour from the Amp-Hours rating, but 2C may not give you quite half the time, and anything over 2C will probably not last very long between charges.

To be plain, your #A pack’s 18650s, at 2550mAH rated Capacity, will deliver 1C, which is 2.5A, for 1 hour, or 2C, which is 5A, for half an hour, or 0.5C, which is 1.25A, for 2 hours.

This will tell you whether the pack you want to buy/scrounge is going to be worth it. If the 18650s inside will be called upon to deliver >2C, you may want to pass on it.

And yes, I know 50% efficiency is too low, and even 2.5C isn’t too high, but I just used easy numbers to make the Math plain. If you want “ballpark” numbers, figure 90% Efficiency and 2.5C max rate (which means your 18650s won’t last half an hour!!).

The bottom line is, what matters is ‘how much current’ for ‘how long’, and Watts is a BS distraction which won’t help you understand. Amp-Hours (Capacity) and C (Ampere Delivery Rate) are what’s important here.
==========

If I was wrong, I’d appreciate correction, if what I said make this easier to grasp, I’d like to share it.

Mostly I just wanted to bump this thread…

Thanks for reading.

Dim

“There is no darkness but ignorance.”

travis
Offline
Last seen: 3 months 1 week ago
Joined: 03/19/2012 - 23:54
Posts: 1010
Location: SoCal

Why not just use the search function for keywords?
Works for me

“"A free people ought not only be armed and disciplined, but they should have sufficient arms and ammunition to maintain a status of independence from any who might attempt to abuse them, which would include their own government.””
-George Washington

wight
Offline
Last seen: 1 year 1 month ago
Joined: 11/27/2013 - 16:40
Posts: 4969
Location: Virginia, USA

travis wrote:
Why not just use the search function for keywords?
Works for me
It can be very difficult to come up with the correct keywords sometimes. Other times there are no keywords that are both relevant enough and unique enough to pull up the post.

Still fine, still on a break. One day I’ll catch up with you folks! previous wight catchup Wink
list of my drivers & variants (A17DD, FET+1 stuff, WIP stuff, etc)

Dimbo The Blinky
Dimbo The Blinky's picture
Offline
Last seen: 6 months 2 weeks ago
Joined: 11/27/2012 - 09:46
Posts: 1626
Location: The Indigo State, USA, Earth

As I stated in the OP. Thank you for the reminder.

“There is no darkness but ignorance.”

wight
Offline
Last seen: 1 year 1 month ago
Joined: 11/27/2013 - 16:40
Posts: 4969
Location: Virginia, USA

I just wish there was a button I could use to “fav” a post. Then I could just skim my list of faved posts to find stuff.

garrybunk wrote:

That fenix mount looks pretty nice!  Pricey, but should be good quality!  There’s always the absolutely secure method I first used using conduit clamps (from a DIY found online):

11[snip]

Post #8 here – http://budgetlightforum.com/node/34841#comment-661965

Still fine, still on a break. One day I’ll catch up with you folks! previous wight catchup Wink
list of my drivers & variants (A17DD, FET+1 stuff, WIP stuff, etc)

wight
Offline
Last seen: 1 year 1 month ago
Joined: 11/27/2013 - 16:40
Posts: 4969
Location: Virginia, USA

Identifications for PAM280x family boost controller chips such as PAM2801, PAM2803, PAM2805, PAM2806:

ericandor wrote:
That is what I have found regarding PAM280*
(X – internal code, Y – year code, W – week code)

CD X Y W – PAM2801 – single mode, 1W
CF X Y W – PAM2803 – single mode, 3W
EC X Y W – PAM2805 – 3-modes (100%/25%/STROBE), 3W
EE(?) X Y W – PAM2806 – 5-modes (100%/25%/50%/STROBE/SOS), 3W

So it seems that CFBOW is actually PAM2803, and ECA1R is PAM2805.


via Post #37 in the “Ultrafire LZZ-06 AAA light with pocket clip 0.9-4.2v” thread

This would cover the controller for lights like the DQG clicky AAA and the Fenix E05.

Still fine, still on a break. One day I’ll catch up with you folks! previous wight catchup Wink
list of my drivers & variants (A17DD, FET+1 stuff, WIP stuff, etc)

Otanacious
Otanacious's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 day 53 min ago
Joined: 08/07/2014 - 00:43
Posts: 582
Location: Pacific Northwest

Was re-researching for laptop pack calculations, found this post from last October

[(Total Pack Capacity (mAh) * # of cells in pack) / # of parallels] / total # of cells = mAh per 18650 cell.

So 4800mAh pack, of 9 cell, 3 parallels.

[(4800*9)/3]/9=1600mAh per cell.

(Note: that is a brand new never used battery pack)

From the same thread

Let’s take your example of a 6 cell pack rated 11.1V, 48Wh. Now 48/11.1 = 4.324Ah = 4324mAh. And 11.1V/3.7V = 3, so the pack has 3 cells in series, so 6/3 = 2 cells in parallel; thus 4324/2 = 2162mAh/cell. So they’re probably 2150 mAh cells, indeed 11.1 * 2.15 * 2 = 47.73Wh, which rounds to 48 Wh, as rated.

I've found from intuition that: 

3 cell = 3S1P [10.8/11.1]

4 cell = 4S1P [14.4/.8]

6 cell = 3S2P [10.8/11.1]

8 cell = 4S2P [14.4/.8]

9 cell = 3S3P [10.8/11.1]

12 cell = 4S3P [14.4/.8]

           =  3S4P [10.8/11.1]

Might not be buried deep in the boneyard, but its easily overlooked.

WarHawk-AVG
WarHawk-AVG's picture
Offline
Last seen: 11 months 1 week ago
Joined: 01/04/2014 - 06:47
Posts: 5071
Location: H-Town

wight wrote:
I just wish there was a button I could use to “fav” a post. Then I could just skim my list of faved posts to find stuff.
garrybunk wrote:

That fenix mount looks pretty nice!  Pricey, but should be good quality!  There’s always the absolutely secure method I first used using conduit clamps (from a DIY found online):

11[snip]

Post #8 here – http://budgetlightforum.com/node/34841#comment-661965


oh snap..those could also work as impromptu shotgun light mounts too Big Smile
Dimbo The Blinky
Dimbo The Blinky's picture
Offline
Last seen: 6 months 2 weeks ago
Joined: 11/27/2012 - 09:46
Posts: 1626
Location: The Indigo State, USA, Earth

More BLF Gold:

E1320 wrote:

Shadowww wrote:

Is Solarforce L2m much bigger than the 501A?


Keywords: Ultrafire 501A Solarforce L2m 1xCR123 1×16340

“There is no darkness but ignorance.”

eas
eas's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 year 3 months ago
Joined: 07/14/2014 - 18:53
Posts: 1363
Location: PNW
Otanacious wrote:

Was re-researching for laptop pack calculations, found this post from last October

[(Total Pack Capacity (mAh) * # of cells in pack) / # of parallels] / total # of cells = mAh per 18650 cell.

So 4800mAh pack, of 9 cell, 3 parallels.

[(4800*9)/3]/9=1600mAh per cell.

(Note: that is a brand new never used battery pack)

From the same thread

Let’s take your example of a 6 cell pack rated 11.1V, 48Wh. Now 48/11.1 = 4.324Ah = 4324mAh. And 11.1V/3.7V = 3, so the pack has 3 cells in series, so 6/3 = 2 cells in parallel; thus 4324/2 = 2162mAh/cell. So they’re probably 2150 mAh cells, indeed 11.1 * 2.15 * 2 = 47.73Wh, which rounds to 48 Wh, as rated.

I’ve found from intuition that: 

3 cell = 3S1P [10.8/11.1]

4 cell = 4S1P [14.4/.8]

6 cell = 3S2P [10.8/11.1]

8 cell = 4S2P [14.4/.8]

9 cell = 3S3P [10.8/11.1]

12 cell = 4S3P [14.4/.8]

           =  3S4P [10.8/11.1]

Might not be buried deep in the boneyard, but its easily overlooked.

People hunting for laptop packs might also want to know that any pack over 100Wh is subject to strict transportation regulations and so we are unlikely to see higher pack capacities. I wrote a bit about some of the implications of this for battery pack ‘upcyclers’ a few weeks back. A few highlights:

  • 12 cell packs are likely to be older and certain to be using lower capacity cells (
  • The largest cell you are likely to find in a 9-cell pack is ~3,100 mAh.

On a related note, Dimbo-the-Binky, Wh is NOT a bullshit number. It actually conveys more useful information than just focusing on mAh.

Thats not to say your advice is wrong. Current delivery is pretty much always an important consideration alongside capacity, and for lights using direct drive, or a driver with a linear regulator, nominal Wh isn’t really an added consideration.

Nominal Wh is relevant for lights with a switch-mode regulator. I think most commonly these are buck converters, which switch the power flowing to an inductor to regulate voltage and current. The inductor can trade a reduction in voltage for a boost in current (which is smoothed by a capacitor). Wh is also relevant when a boost converter (like a joule-thief) is involved.

Further, true (measured) Wh may shed light on the shape of the discharge curve and hint at how much time a discharging spends above the target voltage when used in a light with a linear regulator. I haven’t done any tests on this yet, but in theory, two cells of different types (manufacturer, chemistry, design, etc) with the same nominal capacity and voltage could have different measured Wh capacities due to one delivering more of its initial current at a higher average voltage.

To Summarize:

  • mAh capacity is always relevant
  • discharge rate is always relevant
  • Wh is relevant when a switch-mode regulator is involved.

That’s my understanding, at least. I’m sure someone will be along shortly to correct anything I’ve got wrong.

wight
Offline
Last seen: 1 year 1 month ago
Joined: 11/27/2013 - 16:40
Posts: 4969
Location: Virginia, USA

Sounds like the Xtar MC1 chargers can have wide range of termination voltages (post #3102)

ToyKeeper wrote:
I’m curious if anyone has suggestions for a small, cheap Li-Ion charger which reliably charges pretty close to 4.20V.

I have a Nitecore i4 which terminates at 4.22V, and three Xtar MC1 chargers which terminate at 4.24/4.25V, 4.12/4.13V, and 4.15/4.16V respectively. Mostly, I’m looking for something to include with gifts.

I’ll probably use the ~4.12V charger myself, since I don’t mind the lower voltage and potentially getting more cycles per battery, but the 4.25V one seems like it might significantly reduce cell life due to overcharging.

Still fine, still on a break. One day I’ll catch up with you folks! previous wight catchup Wink
list of my drivers & variants (A17DD, FET+1 stuff, WIP stuff, etc)

ImA4Wheelr
Offline
Last seen: 1 month 3 weeks ago
Joined: 02/03/2013 - 14:51
Posts: 7933
Location: SC

Here (Post 917), wight showed some basics for making a voltage divider for series cells.

djozz
djozz's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 hour 25 min ago
Joined: 09/07/2012 - 17:04
Posts: 17671
Location: Amsterdam

This classic thread by drJones explains all about what happens, and especially what does not happen optically when you dedome a led. Not everything is easy to comprehend, but wether you understand it or not, or believe it or not, it is true and practically it helps you designing your mods and predict the performance:

http://budgetlightforum.com/node/15818

ImA4Wheelr
Offline
Last seen: 1 month 3 weeks ago
Joined: 02/03/2013 - 14:51
Posts: 7933
Location: SC

Dimbo The Blinky wrote the below here.  Works great.  Now I can re-profile blades and reshape metal in a fraction of the time.  Thanks Dimbo bro! Smile

If you want to whittle steel, like whittling wood with your favorite pocket knife, get yourself one of these:

It’s nothing but a Carbide bar on the edge of a small steel bar. KISS. I picked one up on a whim at the local hardware store, to see if it would make sharpening lawn mower blades less of a chore. It worked.

For a giggle, to test it, I tried whittling the edge of a double-bit axe head I was in the process of re-handling… One stroke down each side of an edge made the old head (the axe, not mine!!) dangerous to work on!!

Needless to say, I’m impressed.

Not shilling, just sharing. This is a cool tool and it is small enough to fit almost anywhere you want it, and will get any metal you can find (even bar stock, I’d wager) sharp enough to skin a deer, without a lot of work. No, it won’t likely make an edge like you guys are discussing in this thread, but it will make an edge you can use to cut things, on anything metal and flat — and that right soon.

I only paid around seven bucks, so needless to say I went back & picked up a few. One of them is the only sharpening tool in my BOB now…

Hope this helps.

Dim

Dimbo The Blinky
Dimbo The Blinky's picture
Offline
Last seen: 6 months 2 weeks ago
Joined: 11/27/2012 - 09:46
Posts: 1626
Location: The Indigo State, USA, Earth

More buried treasure:

http://budgetlightforum.com/node/35228?page=2#comment-772320

DB Custom wrote:
I like to clamp my curved jaw hemostats on the coil of the spring just below the end I’m soldering the wire to, then do the soldering with the solder wire directly applied to the spring/22Ga wire to get the most of the resin core inside. The stats absorb heat to keep the entire spring from overheating.

Flip it and do the other end, then you already have solder on the spring when you solder it to the switch/driver pad, which makes that go much easier as well. Wink

The exception is when bypassing the pcb the switch is on, in which case I like to remove the switch, mount the spring, solder the wire to the top of the spring once passed through the board, then replace the switch and make the wire to switch connection simultaneously while attaching that side of the switch to the board. Again, clamping the stats to the part of the switch lead that comes out of the plastic housing keeps that connection from melting the plastic. This process keeps the switch pristine, so it’s not overheated internally and works smoothly.

Gosh, takes much more to say it than it does to simply do it.


Just a little nugget of gold I found lying there…

“There is no darkness but ignorance.”

ImA4Wheelr
Offline
Last seen: 1 month 3 weeks ago
Joined: 02/03/2013 - 14:51
Posts: 7933
Location: SC

Some good suggestions on soldering LED leads in well heat-sinked heads.

http://budgetlightforum.com/node/46663

Solar
Offline
Last seen: 7 months 2 weeks ago
Joined: 05/05/2014 - 14:27
Posts: 270

There is so much history and info here we need a forum archivist. BLF is THE library on how to mod. I still find myself reading posts from 5+ years ago.

WillyD
Offline
Last seen: 4 weeks 1 day ago
Joined: 10/10/2012 - 15:55
Posts: 793
Location: Ohio

You know, there’s always thread tagging. Not sure if it’s even an option with Drupal. Might be a plugin for it. But, that would also increase overhead and might be abused. Ok, nevermind.