Very nice i just ordered a few boards to try out my new hot air re-flow station
And now I see for some reason I never marked that the 7135 next to R2 must be populated for LVP to work? Ugh! Well now we know. :~
Thanks nitro!
Wouldn’t you be able to squeeze the off time cap in to the left under LED+ with a little redesign? Flashing might be difficult with the off time cap in the way?
I measured in Eagle, the off time cap should not block the clip. I have >8mm of vertical clearance overall for the clip. The top left 7135 and the Zener are both a little closer than I would like, but I’m pretty sure a stock Pomona clip will fit. A shaved Pomona clip should fit for sure (stock they are very wide compared to the actual chip, 1.4mm wider IIRC).
> moody, so sluggish and unmovtivated…
Winter blues?
I’ve found cet.org has a good self-evaluation for timing bright lights; and a $25 dawn simulator is a great help in our household
But back on this board, is CK or anyone else building them?
I melted the dome off a Nichia-on-Noctigon (my first mod of an F13) after less than 20 minutes’ total use, and I’ve been wondering whether it was just cooked and a driver swap would help before I replace that.
I’ve been thinking of doing a few to sell.
I dont have the newest version (wight’s pretty quick at constantly pumping out new revisions of all his stuff, always tinkering) but I have some older one’s. If you have an immediate need it may be faster to get some from him (if he’s got the boards on hand) but you’ve always been a good customer of mine sir, if you need one I can order the new boards today (I think it’s always best to use the newest version’s available so I’d rather do that than sell you an older one) just let me know if you want to go that route and I’ll get them ordered now.
Good to know. I’ve been way to conservative with mine.
Congrats wight, that is a very nice upgrade to this already great driver.
Could you elaborate on that one?
If a person needs or wants to use the ‘traditional’ setup with 19.1k/4.7k + a diode, I made provisions for that. They can cut the trace which goes from R1 to B+, then scrape the jumper next to R1 and solder over it. If properly scraped surface tension should allow for an easy connection with no need for a wire or anything.
No hurry on my part because — as I think I melted the Nichia dome off the Noctigon just in intermittent use with the stock driver — I’m not quite sure what combination of emitter and driver will make sense.
(I got two F13s, put a Nichia in one for better color, while it lasted)
I know I want to replace the drivers to get rid of the blinkies — but I’ll wait til someone else has more thoughts on what combination of emitter and driver will work.
(I’m more interested in length of use than brightness, these will go into the earthquake kit eventually)
The really big plus here is a driver that will work with the retaining ring.
EDIT — meanwhile, I can’t stand to have an unusable light, so I stuck in a 3W Osram
http://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10001895/1136403-osram-3w-4700-5000k-150-160lm-neutral-white-led-em
and one of these inappropriate but seems to work tolerably well spacers
http://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10007066/1576101-xm-l-reflector-to-xp-g-reflector-converter
(go ahead and laugh)
and the F13 is again a usable light, nowhere near as bright as the Nichia I melted or the stock blue-white emitter, but decent color rendering.
But yeah, I need to understand what pair —emitter and driver — will do better. I liked the high CRI til I melted the Nichia.
I’d say an XM-L2 at ~4A is decent. As I recall I swapped the stock centering ring for a normal one (with wings). This yielded a pretty large hotspot.
run hot, but throw alot of light…the F13 w/ integral shelf for the LED is a very good thermal management path for wicking that heat away, a good copper direct thermal path star solidly affixed to that shelf, it will get warm, but it will throw ALOT of light 
Awesome build wight…great job (I really like that little dogleg in the trace…very cool!
I just built up and tested my first C_K 3.1v DD 17mm driver (Tiny13A). I thought it would need the 22 Ohm R1 because it directly connects B+ to R1, like this one does (wight's driver designs). So I did use the 22k Ohm, assuming the default value used by the e-switch firmware of 130 for 3.1v would still be correct. However, I found the LVP (Low Voltage Protection) kicked in at about 3.35v cell voltage - much higher than I would have thought or like.
Doing the math, for 3.1v protection, the value should be about 126, and 3.2v would be about 130. So, could be the precision (1.1v ref is rough), or could be something else going on. I'm going to try a value of 115 for a 3.0v cutoff. From the #'s and measurements, this should be about right for 3.0v, at least on my setup for the C_K 3.1 driver, and using the 22k resistor.
Wondering if anyone else did testing on the LVP #'s...
For reference (from BLF-VLD readme file):
The voltage divider consists of two resistors in series, connecting V_cc to
ground. The voltage between the resistors is measured by the ADC and can be
expressed by the following formula:
V_adc = V_cc * (R2 / (R1 + R2))
The ADC is set to measure with 8 bit resolution in the range from 0V to V_ref.
The value returned by the ADC can be expressed by this formula:
val = 255 * (V_adc / V_ref);
By subsequently substituting V_adc and V_cc, we get the following formula:
val = ((V_bat - V_diode) * R2 * 255) / ((R1 + R2) * V_ref)
Just trying to help Tom E , I believe your above post should be in the chinglish thread. No thanks needed. Cheers.
huh?
MRsDNF is making fun of your post because it is as difficult to understand as badly translated Chinese. 
That's bad because like 2 weeks ago, I would have responded the same way, before I sort of understood this stuff - at least I think I understand, maybe not... ? 
My most recent conversation with the other side of the world over useless MCU's bought over eBay (most recent first):
------------------
| Dear tome, Sorry,we are confident with our proudcts.
- polida2008
|
From: tome
To: polida2008
Subject: Re: Other: tome sent a message about 5PCS MCU IC ATMEL SOP-8N ATTINY13A-SSU TINY13A-SSU ATTINY13A #250936543547
Sent Date: Nov-25-14 05:49:48 PST
| Dear polida2008, OK - these are 100% useless if I can't program them. Looks like we will never agree on this, and appears you lack the technical expertise and tools to verify this, so it's impossible for you to tell whether your sources are legitimate, unprogrammed parts or not.
- tome
|
From: polida2008
To: tome
Subject: Re: Other: tome sent a message about 5PCS MCU IC ATMEL SOP-8N ATTINY13A-SSU TINY13A-SSU ATTINY13A #250936543547
Sent Date: Nov-25-14 00:19:31 PST
| Dear tome, Yes,we bought the old stock from our market,but the products are genuine and new.
- polida2008
|
From: tome
To: polida2008
Subject: Re: Other: tome sent a message about 5PCS MCU IC ATMEL SOP-8N ATTINY13A-SSU TINY13A-SSU ATTINY13A #250936543547
Sent Date: Nov-24-14 13:07:59 PST
| Dear polida2008, What does this mean? I don't understand. Why is the stock you are selling so old? Why is it dated 2012 and 2011? How exactly do you know the lot is good? It's obviously not current or recent manufactured based on the date codes.
- tome
|
From: polida2008
To: tome
Subject: Re: Other: tome sent a message about 5PCS MCU IC ATMEL SOP-8N ATTINY13A-SSU TINY13A-SSU ATTINY13A #250936543547
Sent Date: Nov-24-14 08:10:07 PST
| Dear tome, Dear, If all the products are bad,we can't sell this item a lot.We did sell it a lot,no problem.
- polida2008
|
[quote=Tom E]
That’s bad because like 2 weeks ago, I would have responded the same way, before I sort of understood this stuff - at least I think I understand, maybe not… ?
Heh, who knows? For that matter I thought that I must have run some numbers on the 22k resistor I’ve been recommending. Maybe I just pulled it out of thin air? I’ll have to go back and do some figuring, but not now. I definitely remember claiming somewhere that other people might come up with better resistor values. And of course those of us who flash the MCUs can always choose new LVP values in the firmware.
Thanks wight and sorry Tom E. It was just me being stupid showing my lack of knowledge on what you were talking about. I do absolutely admire you guys with all the electronic knowledge.