Yes. I added about 5.5mm worth on mine, in addition to filling in the 16mm pill space then sanding it flat.
You could file off the threads so that it can thread deeper, but I wanted the extra thermal mass and thread contact. Either way you need to flatten the face for the 20mm MCPCB.
Richard, what’s the chance of getting 9v MT-G2s? I understand its an extremely niche item but if it helps I’ll pay $30 for one.
Richard has X6 hosts on the way, we’ve found an excellent source for the triple optics that’s stateside, and my machinist has my prototype in hand today. With the holiday this weekend, I’m expecting to have some idea as to availability on the sinks for Richard next week sometime.
It’s easy to make one or two of something and make them to fit, but how do we know just how exacting a standard has been held on machining the inside of the X6’s from the factory? Will a snug push fit made for my original light fit the same way in 100 others? Or will it be to big to go in at all? Or loose? Trying to get some measurements inside the head of the X6’s available to see how consistent this runs. With a sampling of 6 or 8 lights available to me, we’ve got an idea…but who knows? I’d like to make them slightly on the large side. With the central hole running through it, should be pretty simple to run a machine screw through the middle and mount it up in a hand drill to spin it and sand it down slighty to fit an individual light snugly. Any thoughts?
I thought this would just be something that rested on the surface of the pill, where the mcpcb would normally go, and then the bezel would screw on to provide vertical compression.
The plan is, for the Triple Eagle Eye X6, to fill the head as much as possible while raising the 32mm Noctigon to the proper height for the optics to fit. The base of the heat sink will be machined to fit into the shelf where the star usually goes, with the larger diameter above that being filled side to side so the head of the light will be in full contact with the heat sink for optimum thermal path. This is only .30” (7.6mm) tall we’re talking about, so it’s not a real deep sink…needs to be as wide as possible to do the most good.
This way, the nice fins and thick aluminum already provided by Eagle Eye will be put to maximum use. With Triple XP-L’s that’s essential!
I built one by using stacked 20mm copper mcpcb’s with the dielectric layer sanded off. This leaves about 5mm+ of air space around the spacer column doing nothing. So a push fit aluminum spacer/heat sink will, ideally, be a simple thing to slip into the head and then put the large Noctigon on top of it. Thermal paste between all contacts of course. The existing shelf where the star now sits will have to have a hole bored through it for the wires. By having a central hole, we’re assured the wires won’t get cut when tightening down the bezel.
I've looked and it's hard to find one anywhere. It seems like they were available 9-12 months ago, but now Cutter, Digikey, Mouser, and a quick Google search hasn't turned up anything.
Mouser has one with MOQ=1, non-stocked. If time is not of the essence then that one might be an option. I did not check the order code against the datasheet.
Right, I should have said "in stock" at any of those places.
I knew what you meant; I was just pointing out that there’s at least one place a determined person could acquire a single. Maybe TheGloriousTachikoma has a project which absolutely hinges on using a 9v part.
Its not showing out of stock unless I missed something?
I don’t know if you missed it (maybe you know or maybe you don’t), but Cutter charges $25 shipping to the USA. A fair price, but increases the cost a lot if you just wanted a single LED.
DNF offered to hook me up on that. I just wanted to have it, or a source, available if/when I get a linear 3s 7135 driver sorted out. Three cells in series and a single 9v emitter.
[quote=RMM]
[quote=Striker]
For some reason my quote didn’t work…this is from RMM’s post a while back:
“1. BATT, solder this to one of the empty pads next to the LED wires. I usually use the pad marked ”U2”, but any will do.
2. GROUND, solder this one to the pad marked “GND” on the board.
3. PWM (the wire connected to the small pad where a 7135 normally is), solder to the pad marked “P”.
4. One of the electronic switch wires should be attached to “SW-” NOT “SW+”on the board, the other should be soldered to Star 3 (counting from the left) on the 105C.”
Ok so, I was excited to get the kit…even though I ordered at the beginning or mtn’s “blackout week”…thanks!
…but could use a little help. I’ve been around electronics but mostly older stuff. This is not a hobby for an old guy with shaky hands who’s had too much coffee, eh? I thought they forgot to send the resistors then found them…like specs of black pepper in the bag. After borrowing the wife’s reading glasses, somehow I managed to solder them in although it aint as pretty as the pics I”ve seen. At one point I was trying to use a tweezers to hold the resistor down and soldered the tweezers to the resistor! I take it these resistors are able to withstand soldering temps? Because they are so small…I’m sure they get up to the same temp as the molten solder.
To my question: I assume the above is for a Supfire M6…and my Mod1 kit has the 105C board. It has three wires, not 4. So I can follow what to do based on the above “except” not sure on the 4th wire. I have two blacks and one red. So I need a 4th wire?
If so, I think it goes on a star pad? There are four star pads exposed/no wires on them. With the stars on the bottom, the far left one is connected to ground (call that #1), the third from the left has solder on it but no wire. Maybe this is where to connect the 4th wire?
Thanks in advance for helping out a noob!
This is a big thread, I’m not sure exactly what you are replying to. Why don’t you tell us:
Generally speaking if you plan to piggyback a Nanjg-105c on something such as the Supfire M6 you just need 3 wires between the boards: GND, V, and PWM. You’ll also need to hook the switch wires up to the Nanjg-105c (or at least the Switch wire, Switch- is simply GND anyway).
Normally Star 4 is used for Switch+. (Star1 is directly connected to GND, count up from there.)
EDIT:
I fixed your quotes, I think. (problem was not your fault)
I do not know whether RMM has changed the Switch+ pin from stock STAR momentary as described or not. It won’t hurt to try both individually until RMM chimes in.
This is a Supfire-type M6
thanks for the lightning fast reply. I have another clue, I held a light up behind the 105c and found there’s another star (let’s call it #3) which has solder on it but no wire. I updated my post above to suit. So now I know I need another wire based on your post, just need to decide if I put it there (#3) or #4 like you suggested. I see what you mean where the far left star (we are calling #1) is connected to the outer ground ring.
I also edited my post to make the quotes work.
I’d go with #3, but it won’t hurt if it’s wrong. You’ll just need to change it, no harm done. I wonder why RMM uses #3?
Sorry I've been in South Dakota all day hunting some pheasants ... away from cell phone coverage (a good thing).
I do indeed use Star 3 on that driver. Why? It's easier for me to solder it without having the capacitor in the way. One switch wire to ground, one to Star 3.
That’s a very practical reason. 
Hope you had a good trip! Might have been a bit unseasonably cold for you I suspect.
Ok I went SW- to star 3…wrapped it all up and it’s a no-go…light works but as previous (modes haven’t changed). I have four wires as described above. Nothing “new” connected to SW+. I connected the outer ring/ground wire on the 105c to the G pad on the M3 board. Not sure what to try next…
Not only does this take a steady hand, but patience! Wow…last time I did something like this was RC planes…back when you built them from sticks (I think now most buy them ready to go). Sharpened my soldering tip, that helped. I only smelled burnt hair once…
So the SW+ pad is currently unpopulated on your M6 driver?