Flashlight as motorcycle highbeam assist

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tjeret
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Flashlight as motorcycle highbeam assist

I’m new here and sorry for my bad English

to the point, i had a motorcycle with LED Projector (from Toyota Camry) but unfortunately it is only low beam. And i’m thinking to use Flashlight head as a high beam
Currently i have Solarforce K3 Head (just arrive and i did not test them yet)

My question, is SF K3 series is the right choice ?
any suggestion for other candidate (with good throw with good spill) ?

Thank You

L4M4
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If you drive that bike on the streets – don’t make that.
You will be blending all other drivers, which is extremely dangerous.

Car and Motorbike headlamps cut off the light that goes up – so blending is acceptable, but a flashlight won’t do that.

tjeret
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Pardon me

but high beam usually light above horizontal view right ?
this pattern

FrickelFreak
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Yeah L4M4, but street legal high beams do blind others as well and don’t cut off the light on top. That’s why you switch to low beam if someone is in front of you. Wink

I wound’t mind much about the legal issues, especially in Indonesia (I guess)…

The K3 gives you a very floody beam, I’d go with a little bit more throw, so you can see further.

tjeret
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FrickelFreak wrote:
Yeah L4M4, but street legal high beams do blind others as well and don’t cut off the light on top. That’s why you switch to low beam if someone is in front of you. Wink

I wound’t mind much about the legal issues, especially in Indonesia (I guess)…

The K3 gives you a very floody beam, I’d go with a little bit more throw, so you can see further.

Yes, you are 100% right about legal issues:D
i will use it occasionaly, even my horn only push less 5 times a month (i don’t like to disturb other with sound)

i saw it here, for me its have good throw 100m forward maybe enough for me
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/23839
So K3 still flood ? Do you have another suggestion ?

FrickelFreak
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The light from your link is modded and has ~twice the output of the stock light.
Are you going to use the light with batteries or do you want to hook the head up to the motorcyle electrics?
If you already got the head, just try it out, maybe it throws enough for you…

tjeret
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Opps 4.4Amps ?!

I will hook it to motorcycle electricity
Ok, tonight i will try to power it to see it perform Smile

tjeret
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I take this picture last night, Using Nikon 1 J2; F 3.5; Iso 400; Exposure time 1/4s

Top => Solarforce K3
Bottom ==> My scooter high beam (Mazda CX5 Projector with 35Watt HID)

Looks like what Fricklefrak says its true, i need more throw :bigsmile:
Is that worth to mod this K3 or Better change to another type of flashlight ?

Cereal_killer
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Are you wanting to turn the K3 (or whatever else) on at the same time as the low beam (have them BOTH running for high) or only one or the other at a time, either high or low?

I think [if your wanting them both on at the same time] the K3 can do what you want. You can use a soldering iron right?

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ImA4Wheelr
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If you are only using your HID for high beam (not sure you can turn if off and on fast enough for that though), you can just remove the cut-off shield.  I've see a few teardowns on-line and they all seem to have removable shieds.  The one here as one screw holding it in place.

tjeret
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I forgot to tell that my current bike i working out is KLX140 with only have led projector as low beam (no high beam)
I put this scooter bike high beam as reference, my goal at least my KLX140 highbeam near this scooter (bixenon) HID highbeam

Yes, not very good but i can play with soldering Smile

tjeret
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Should i try dedome those led to make it more throw ?
or just push those led with higher current ?

FrickelFreak
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Both would be best, but the MT-G2 is really tricky to dedome and you can easily damage the phosphor layer.
If you break the LED you can put another one in there. The new cree XHP50 would be a good candidate and would give you more throw at same output, but it’s not available yet…

tjeret
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I have MT-G2 4000K as spare and try to dedome
yep, i’m stupid enough to remove all those yellow thing (phosphor?)
even tiny wire i remove it too :_(

As for modify current, how it done ?
i seethose heavy modK3 use different led driver

FrickelFreak
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Have you tried the dedomed LED? Looks like there’s some phosphor left…

Post some pics of the driver, probably there is a current sense resistor, you need to lower the value of that by adding a resistor (or more).

tjeret
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Just tried it with 5mA current and 1amp still running no problem
What purpose those tiny wire inside emitter ??? :~
But turn to violet color to my eye :8)

So inside MT-G2 have 66 small emitter Smile

FrickelFreak
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If it’s blue now, you can buy an already dedomed MT-G2 from James:
FS: De-Domed XML2 XPG2 XP-L and MTG2 on 16/20/26/31mm Copper DTP MCPCB’s

I would probably try to dedome the LED from the light (let it get really hot and then gently try to pull the dome off) and if that doesn’t work, buy a dedomed one…

tjeret
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Well i have try it first, since i still have one left Smile
This is my best for doing dedome, had test it ==> YES, Now its YELLOW Wink

Hope i can take outside beam shoot tonight

FrickelFreak
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Nice job on the dedoming!
That looks really clean, how exactly did you do it?

ImA4Wheelr
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Wow tjeret, that is probably the best MT-G2 dedome I have ever seen (Post 17).  Congrats Smile

 

Not sure about that wire you mention.  Maybe for electrostatic discharge protection?  Just a guess.

EDIT: If you post a picture of the driver, we might be able to help you mod it to higher current levels.

tjeret
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Thanks
I’m using hot air and using cutter to slice it (layer by layer)

I mean small wire from + to – like in this thread
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/22987

I had try to open the driver compartment, but its very hard
maybe it’s glue down. I will try to use some clamp tomorrow

p.s
Still raining yesterday, i can not take any picture after dedome
hopefully tonight will bright

ImA4Wheelr
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I see.  Maybe that is a diode for reverse polarity protection.

Man, you must have a very steady hand and good eyes to get that close with a blade.

tjeret
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This is after dedome
Sorry its taken about 2 hour after rain

I kind a like this yellow with a smaller hotspot 8)
Next step is crank up current Smile

p.s
So the color of LED is set by dome ?
i mean, i have one left 4000K MT-G2
If i dedome it will be same as 5000K dedome ?

DavidEF
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tjeret wrote:
This is after dedome
Sorry its taken about 2 hour after rain

I kind a like this yellow with a smaller hotspot 8)
Next step is crank up current Smile

p.s
So the color of LED is set by dome ?
i mean, i have one left 4000K MT-G2
If i dedome it will be same as 5000K dedome ?


No, the color is mostly set by the phosphor, but AFAIK de-doming almost always results in a tint shift toward warmer color.

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tjeret
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This is the driver itself

It’s worth to tweak this driver ?
any suggestion about driver that can work at least 18V input with 4A output Smile

ImA4Wheelr
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Those three resistors (R270, R270, R33?) are most likely your voltage sense resistors.  You can solder another one to the side of the small one (so it's easier to remove) and see what happens to current.  There are formulas if you know the voltage drop across the bank, but I would just try adding one R3ish (.3 ohms) resistor at a time and remeasure current to the emitter.

A good way to rig the driver so you can add resistors and measure without reassembling the light is to solder wires to connect to your cells and then connect one of the LED leads to a DMM and then the DMM to the emitter.  Here is an example.  It's a little confusing because there is another driver piggy-backed in it.  The fat Red and Black wires going straight up and out of the picture are going the cells.  The L- wire is going down the DMM and then the DMM is feeding the emitter.  Shorter wires reduce resistance losses.

tjeret
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Thanks for suggestion
Those R270 + R270 + R330 in parallel
according to parallel resistor calculator its about 0R095
I have measure current with clamp meter at high is about 2.1A

anyway how to make this driver have only one mode (high only) ?

ImA4Wheelr
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No prob.  Your calculation sounds right to me (little less than 1/3 of .3 ohms).

One mode is real easy if you can identify the MCU pin that is Vcc (+ input) and the pin for PWM out.  You then just then add a jumper between the pins.  You will no longer have LVP or thermal protection, if your driver even has those.  You pull the MCU if you wished as it will be consuming a tiny bit of power, but controlling nothing.

tjeret
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ImA4Wheelr wrote:

No prob.  Your calculation sounds right to me (little less than 1/3 of .3 ohms).

One mode is real easy if you can identify the MCU pin that is Vcc (+ input) and the pin for PWM out.  You then just then add a jumper between the pins.  You will no longer have LVP or thermal protection, if your driver even has those.  You pull the MCU if you wished as it will be consuming a tiny bit of power, but controlling nothing.

This one use PIC12F629
If i remove that MCU it will always on to high mode?
I thought those IC that “drive” mosfet for buck regulation (sorry i’m new about MCU thing)

I had try remove all three resistor and replace it by 0R047 (since this only low value that i had), change SS54 to V8P10 diode, and change those 33uH inductor with a “bigger” one
Now, it draw 4,2A to Load, awesome Steve

ImA4Wheelr
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Nice work.  You should watch that single resistor.  It's now handling all the current for the voltage sensor back.

There should be a buck controller regulating voltage.  Was there a 6-pin component (labled "LEDA xxxx) under that inductor coil?

Removing the MCU won't put you always on High.  Jumping/shorting the Vcc pad to the PWM pad will.

I like the look of your modded driver.  Cool stuff.

tjeret
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The only 6 leg is near those MCU (wrote 4170a at the body) ?
and which one of pinout for PWM out at MCU, i already download datasheet but can not understand

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