New 105D. replacing Nanjg-105c @ FT? (no stars!)

I always buy these: fasttech.com-8-amc7135-2-group-25-modes. Bought a ton, usually 10 or 5 per order. I don't care bout the modes because I reprogram them all. Is there any difference besides the modes? Maybe these are still the old style? I got a bunch in stock now and am using them less often.

Actually my last buys were these: fasttech.com-6-amc7135-2-group-35-modes, simply because I have so many 7135's to use up. Was buying them in qty 100 from FT at the great price.

Actually I just noticed the two pics of the 2 group and 4 group mode drivers is exactly the same - no difference at all Smile. So if you re-program, it's just throwing money away - not much money though...

Shame that there's no more star/pad for an off-time cap. Can't go back to on-time memory anymore.

I don’t think you paid close attention to the SKU. 1186301 is exactly what we are talking about!

Oops you're right - thought the OP was pointing to the other one for some weird reason...

:wink:

It seems ordering the four group version should force them to send one with stars.

That’s a good point Fritz.

For my own part I’m actually not interested in paying a higher price just for the stars, but other people might be. As far as I’m concerned the OTC can be placed on top of the driver and the most recent version of my A17PZL Nanjg-replacement driver has a place for sending your <1mm switch+ wire through.

You can always stick the cap directly on the MCU pin, but it is a pain compared to having its own pad. I did this last summer with a bunch of AK47a drivers that I needed to be 100% single sided, and did it with the first revisions of the BLF17DD driver, but it really stinks to get it in place and is even worse if you have to reflash the MCU.

I agree RMM - when I saw others do that it looked easy, but when I went to do it myself I found that it was a real pain. I guess a person determined to do it that way could use a little radial-lead cap to make the job much easier? http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-x-1uF-35V-Radial-Capacitor-Tantalum-Free-Shipping-/260824509287?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3cba5a2b67

If there is room I agree that a leaded capacitor would probably be easier. I actually bought some leaded components a while ago because in some custom configurations they are easier to use and more reliable than SMD components air wired together or soldered in crazy positions on the board.

Tantalum caps are tiny party grenades. :party:

By which you mean they work great in low voltage scenarios like this? :face_with_monocle:

Seriously though, what exactly are you implying?

Well, those should be fine here. Just triple check polarity and de-rate the marked voltage 33%. They are notorious for exploding and flaming, plus they often fail shorted, so I always think of how fun they can be in some places. Personally, when possible, I avoid them.

Makes sense.

Ceramics use to be more limited in uF or larger in size for an equal uF but they’ve improved, less need for tantalum now. And no polarity to care about.

Sorry for the OT. Simon, you say that your version of the LD25 is 3000mA, 700mA and 80mA yet your aliexpress store says modes are 100, 40(1200mA) and 6% (180mA). Please update your store information.

sorry ,there is no star version LD25

I have two version LD25

Thanks for clarifying!

Did you ever carry/make a Nanjg 7135 driver that had moonlight low (I think it was 5mA mode) as well as H-M-L? I am trying to find a driver like this but can only find old discussions of it.

Are you not referring to the Qlite from IOS?