Wow tjeret, that is probably the best MT-G2 dedome I have ever seen (Post 17). Congrats :)
Not sure about that wire you mention. Maybe for electrostatic discharge protection? Just a guess.
EDIT: If you post a picture of the driver, we might be able to help you mod it to higher current levels.
Thanks
I’m using hot air and using cutter to slice it (layer by layer)
I mean small wire from + to - like in this thread
I had try to open the driver compartment, but its very hard
maybe it’s glue down. I will try to use some clamp tomorrow
s
Still raining yesterday, i can not take any picture after dedome
hopefully tonight will bright
I see. Maybe that is a diode for reverse polarity protection.
Man, you must have a very steady hand and good eyes to get that close with a blade.
This is after dedome
Sorry its taken about 2 hour after rain
I kind a like this yellow with a smaller hotspot 8)
Next step is crank up current 
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So the color of LED is set by dome ?
i mean, i have one left 4000K MT-G2
If i dedome it will be same as 5000K dedome ?
No, the color is mostly set by the phosphor, but AFAIK de-doming almost always results in a tint shift toward warmer color.
This is the driver itself
It’s worth to tweak this driver ?
any suggestion about driver that can work at least 18V input with 4A output
Those three resistors (R270, R270, R33?) are most likely your voltage sense resistors. You can solder another one to the side of the small one (so it's easier to remove) and see what happens to current. There are formulas if you know the voltage drop across the bank, but I would just try adding one R3ish (.3 ohms) resistor at a time and remeasure current to the emitter.
A good way to rig the driver so you can add resistors and measure without reassembling the light is to solder wires to connect to your cells and then connect one of the LED leads to a DMM and then the DMM to the emitter. Here is an example. It's a little confusing because there is another driver piggy-backed in it. The fat Red and Black wires going straight up and out of the picture are going the cells. The L- wire is going down the DMM and then the DMM is feeding the emitter. Shorter wires reduce resistance losses.
Thanks for suggestion
Those R270 + R270 + R330 in parallel
according to parallel resistor calculator its about 0R095
I have measure current with clamp meter at high is about 2.1A
anyway how to make this driver have only one mode (high only) ?
No prob. Your calculation sounds right to me (little less than 1/3 of .3 ohms).
One mode is real easy if you can identify the MCU pin that is Vcc (+ input) and the pin for PWM out. You then just then add a jumper between the pins. You will no longer have LVP or thermal protection, if your driver even has those. You pull the MCU if you wished as it will be consuming a tiny bit of power, but controlling nothing.
This one use PIC12F629
If i remove that MCU it will always on to high mode?
I thought those IC that “drive” mosfet for buck regulation (sorry i’m new about MCU thing)
I had try remove all three resistor and replace it by 0R047 (since this only low value that i had), change SS54 to V8P10 diode, and change those 33uH inductor with a “bigger” one
Now, it draw 4,2A to Load, awesome :cowboy_hat_face:
Nice work. You should watch that single resistor. It's now handling all the current for the voltage sensor back.
There should be a buck controller regulating voltage. Was there a 6-pin component (labled "LEDA xxxx) under that inductor coil?
Removing the MCU won't put you always on High. Jumping/shorting the Vcc pad to the PWM pad will.
I like the look of your modded driver. Cool stuff.
The only 6 leg is near those MCU (wrote 4170a at the body) ?
and which one of pinout for PWM out at MCU, i already download datasheet but can not understand
Yeah, the MCU Pin used for PWM would be determined by the firmware.
I didn't see the other 3 legs of that component due to shadow in picture. I'm not familiar with that marking though. Could you clean up the driver with alcohol and then take a picture of each side with light behind it. It would make the traces stand out.
It looks like the top right Pin of the MCU (In 2nd picture) maybe the PWM out. The PWM out should go into one of the Pins of the Buck Controller and then a different Pin on the Buck Controller should feed the Gate Pin to your MOSFET. The Gate Pin of the FET should be the right pin when your looking at it with the big tap pointing up.
EDIT: I take that back about the top right pin of the MCU. I think I see a trace for that Pin also going to that Capacitor. Maybe that Pin is Vcc. Maybe better pictures will help answer some questions.
Which Pin does the data sheet say is Vcc? Is Ground the bottom right Pin per the data sheet?
Ok will try to clean those board
quality of soldering is mess plus they did not clean flux at all :Sp
Yes, those pin 1 MCU is V+ and pin 8 connected to GND
I have a scope, should i try to probe at medium or low mode to see PWM ?
This is the output with 4.2A
Great, now its very close to CX5 HID projector highbeam with “BIGGER” hotspot
Oh, that looks very nice. The tint looks much better at the current. Did you change the camera settings? You should be proud of that light. Really has a smooth beam profile. Congrats :)
I think your idea for using the scope is very good. I wish I knew how to use one. Check all the pins (except Vcc and Gnd) on the MCU and also on the 6 pin "buck controller".
Congrats on the successful mod, beam looks awesome! 
I’m sure you’ll figure out the 1-mode conversion too.
Thank you
This is what i got from my scope
Upper picture = Output MCU
Lower pcture = Mosfet gate input
Low Mode
Medium Mode
High Mode
Yes, you right ImA4Wheelr
Those MCU only “pull up” output to approx 5V (scope at DC coupled)
So if i jumper those pin to V+ (lets says i’m feed it with 15V supply), its will be fine ?
s
Camera setting still same, ISO 400 ; F/3.5; 1/4s IIRC
I would not Jumper it directly to the input voltage of the driver, that might damage something…
Just look for the VCC-Pin of the µC (should be ~5V constantly) and jumper that to the Controller’s PWM output/Mosfet Gate.
^ I agree with FF. You definitely don't want to feed 15v. You want the Vcc for the MCU which should be in the 3 to 5 volt range. Nice work. I need to learn how to use a scope.
A = Output from MCU
B = Output to Gate Mosfet
Ok so from Pin 1 to pin 4 jumper right
You should learn, its pretty simple. Operate an Android phone is more difficult to me :bigsmile:
s
I have try to put 18V input at this driver
test about 5 minutes, yes everything is hot especially those diode + mosfet but run just fine