LOL, I guess that I am so dutch that I only thought of traditional windmills. Now I see that it makes more sense if gravityZ referred to modern windmills :-)
need help pls…
i tried to get the pill out
like the first time when i got the light and lubed the sealing:
unscrew teh bezel, use needle nose pliers and turn
that was easy then
but today… lets say: if i had a swear jar i had to put a lot in…
the pill does not move.
in no direction (should be counterclockwise to get it out - right?)
any ideas?
could it be that the pill got a “bump” from the head when screwed out while zooming?
i will try the heatgun tomorrow…
-> i did not play more than 5 minutes since i got it 
Both of the pills in my 1405 screwed out easily clockwise.
clockwise??
Yea it’s reverse threaded.
BINGO! it is open!
i tried cw - but not hard enough…
thank you!
which resistor did you pigyback to get which Amps?
-> i read 0,85 A stock
For one light I stacked 2 r150s on top of the r120 to get 2.6 at the tail from 1A stock. For the other one I swapped out the driver for a nanjg at 3A but more will be stacked to 5A
the windmills indeed are grey and used to generate power.
i do not think they are replective but since they are grey they will stand out the background more easily then other objects.
having said that i still the UF-1405 is superior because of the big lense.
i gave an exact same setup(8x7135 driver, xp-g2 dedomed, 1x 18650) in another zoomie with a 35mm lense. that one could barely light up the first windmill at 1270 meters and did not reach the others. so if that light is not able to do the job then a zoommie with a smaller lense or aa batteries is definately not going to reach it.
give me some time to should some photo’s
i will wait for ideal conditions and try to shoot a photo while lighting up the windmill.
last night had a clear sky but also a full moon which is not very good for contrast
Amsterdam is to crowded to place any windmills(maybee on the outskirts)
if you drive to Schagen/Den Helder however you will see lots of windmills along the way
as long as they are not to close to my home i like them
are you talking about the stock driver ?
Im late to the party. Been too busy with other lights the last weeks/months so my 1405 have mostly collected dust. I decided to do a simple budget mod instead of bringing out the full potential of the light.
Total cost of my light with mod: 31,15$. (or at least below 32$) Throw 457kcd. (or over 500kcd with very high calibration)
Longest throwing light in that price range in the history of BLF?
Feel free to add an additional 7-14% to my kcd number to get closer to the highest readings meters. (That means 500+kcd). Ive measured my light twice at 15m and once at 5m, after 30 sec.
Not bad throw for the price. Not bad at all..
Well done! Of course I would like to know which emitter, driver etc. And what you consider to be the full potential. You are being a bit too concise here, RaceR !
Yeah, I would like to know about the details too!
Yes indeed.
I botched the dedome on this XP-G2 S2 2B |( but it still gets 422kcd measured at 10m from 2 stacked R150s 3.6A at tail.
I need more practice with the heat method.
There was no tint shift as far as I could tell from dome on to dome off.
Here’s the one with the 3A Nanjg 1A dedome next to stock 439kcd.
Hi Chazzy, your mod is interesting but there are something I don’t understand about.
Assuming the stock driver delivers 1.60A to the emitter before modded. By stacking two R150 on top of the R120 it should give you about 4.16A to the emitter (neglect the losses) isn’t it? If you measured 3.60A at tail that would be translated into a whopping 6A to the emitter! 
In your case 3.0A + dedomed XP-G2 S2 2B = 439kcd
In my case 3.5A + dedomed XP-G2 S2 2B = 310kcd only
That is almost 30% of difference. I used my HS1010 to measure and convert the reading from 4.5 meters. May I know at what distance did you measure the lux reading?
100 members=100 different lux meters=100 different readings
So be sure that maybe your 310KCD would show 450kcd in some other lux meter :)
Yes I am aware of that. 
But do we still call 30% of difference as error? Sorry I have never compared my lux readings with a lot of people before so I don’t know how much of difference would one consider as error.
I have a XP-G2 on noctigon coming from Hank…
can I use the stock driver?
if yes - which values did you stack on the sense resistors?
Like mentioned earlier, stock driver is well regulated to a level far below what is healthy for two cells. So I decided to try and use that just keep it cheap and simple., and also to see what it was good for. Stock output were no good. Especially not considering the size/capabilities of the light.
I modified the driver to output well above 5A to the emitter outside the light, but it generates a ton of heat, and once it heats up (which happens quickly) output also declines. I decided on 4,8A to be on the "safe side" (added the equivalent to an R080 on top of the stock resistor). I did not consider this safe, but the driver have managed two 20 minutes continuous indoor runs at max output, and about 20 minutes of outdoor use. So it seems good based on limited testing.
The further the driver is pushed the earlier it falls out of regulation. Considering that its regulated down in the 4-5V range, that is no issue. My light is still pushing out the same 4,8A to the emitter (tested with XM-L on cooper) when I had two cells at 4,77v. The warmer the driver gets, the more output it drops. Thanks to all my potting, and lots of solder from driver to pill, Im down to 4,7A @ 30 seconds. If it had no heatsinking it would fall down to 4,5A in less than 10 seconds.
After mod tailcap readings start from just under 3A and goes upwords to 3,4A+ depeding on cells used and how low voltage goes.
I used an XP-G2 S2 2D. The natural high performance choice for de-doming IMO. I also changed to stock centering ring for one that fitted XP-G. That means my centering is perfect. My light can over focus, so I can also get my focus perfect for the highest lux readings.
My light meter is calibrated, by me. To a level well below the highest readings meters on BLF. People can check some of my lux numbers here if you want anything for comparison. But my current calibration is slightly lower now. The other day I compared a light with someone with a high reading lux meter. I had to add 15% to my reading in order to get to that level. That was more than I had estimated and thought. But I don't like being too much above many of the manufacturers that are on the conservative side in comparison to the often seen high BLF numbers. And im not going increase my calibration to a level where Im responsible for pushing (over inflated) numbers higher than anyone else.
As for max potential. I could have pushed the stock driver further, maybe it could actually survive or handle 5,6A? But if its got some ripple, the emitter could be in danger. I also could have rebuilt the pill, which would not have been too much work. Put in a 5Amp FL-2 style driver. I could have squeezed an extra 0,1-0,2A out of that. 5A driver was my original plan when I ordered the light. But settled for slightly less. Since that gave me a simple and cheap mod.
If I had been able to push my S2 2D from 4,8A to 5,6A I would be looking at a 7% lux increase . I know that since Ive measured the light output increase between those currents when collecting data for this thread. That would have resulted in a bump from 457Kcd to 489Kcd with my calibration assuming the driver did not fall quicker due to heat. Probably not worth to push it that far. The light does get very hot after 20 minutes on highest setting indoors. I use the light outdoors, mostly in the cold, so technically I would not mind a hotter light. And I don't really use these types of lights for long. Too narrow beam for me. Its fun though. :)
I hope that was enough details about the mod and makes things clearer? Feel free to ask any questions.
Oh, I can add some more about the light itself. Switch compartment on my light is small. Uses a tiny switch, not room for a large one switch. I plan to improve the switch assembly and swap the switch. If I put in cells that were a bit too long (protected) my light would not even work since the crappy switch assembly did not handle any pressure. One of the O-rings on the head on my light went bad too.. Not too surprising though. I have recently built over 16 UF-T20 lights. Lets just say they were not all the same. Bad switches in some, bad soldering. Some of those even had differences in how far they would focus. I had to find parts from the lights that could overfocus, and swap with lights that did not focus completly in order to get the best out of all the lights.... After playing with so many Uniqefire lights, Im not a fan of their build quality or consistency in parts, lenses or anything. Jax Z1 is in another league build quality wise, but that is not really budget or comparable with the UF1405. Considering the price I paid for the UF-1405. Just above 26$. That is fantastic value for such a capable mod host. Especially since the stock driver could easily be modded to outperform whatever you can make a linear driver do. Very impressed with the overall value considering the price. Although I would not recommend it as a stock light, especially not the unit I got.