Great video wight! I have a couple of your 17DD boards on the way but I think it’s time for me to invest in a better soldering station.
I have a station, but I keep it in storage. I never really liked it that well. I don’t normally build or strip drivers this way. I normally use a 1500W heat gun for reflow, the Milwaukee MHT3300. While that model is no longer available, it was made by Wagner and the housing and controls of the Wagner HT3500 look identical in form/function to my Milwaukee MHT3300. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Wagner-HT3500-1500-Watt-Digital-Heat-Gun-0503040/203474822
I think I should do another video with a basic iron, just to see how it goes. I do recommend getting a nice station. It made a big difference for me in a couple of different ways. Unfortunately the FX-888 is discontinued and the FX-888D is slightly more annoying to use as I understand it. That said, it’s not really a big deal and the FX-888D is probably the one to get IMO. (Frankly it might actually be better, despite the naysayers.)
I cant thank you enough wight. That was two amazing videos. It makes me want to rush out to the shed now and give it ago. Along with Hoops new thread there really is no excuse.
Great videos! Thanks for posting these!
Thanks for the vids… You make it look so easy. I’ve found soldering with so small components extremely frustrating.
Wight i just got my boards, and my parts few weeks ago can u post a mouser/digikey parts list please ?
Thanks for the video!
What temperature setting have you used for this?
Looks like a pretty hot (or remarkably regulated) iron.
Thanks for the video wight lot of moves i probably will try out sooner rather than later, on the second to the end i saw your
pomona test clip…… please don’t stop there 
the flashing how to part is still a bit fuzzy to me.
It would be really nice to have some how to on that, or if i have overlooked some guide on that, here on blf please someone direct me.
I understand i need 3 parts
I asked Tom E and these where his recommendation, thanks again Tom
a Pomona test clip, i haven’t ordered that because i haven’t found any in Europe yet, if i can’t i guess i have to order it from the US.
http://www.digikey.com/product-search/en?KeyWords=501-1311-ND&WT.z_header=search_go
40-pin Splittable Ribbon Cable (20cm)
http://www.fasttech.com/products/1011800
ATmega/ATtiny 51 AVR ISP USBASP USB Programmer Downloader (HQ)
http://www.fasttech.com/products/1002900
Everything is very affordable about 20$ but unfortunate the 30$ shipping from digi-key to Sweden kind of makes it less so 
But where do i find the drivers for the usb programmer and driver firmwares and how to set up modes and tune those, that is the big question now, and again if there are already some how to’s i have missed please direct me.
Cajampa, did you look at this one? Guide: how to flash ATtiny13a based drivers (NANJG, QLITE, etc.) with custom firmware
wow yes that looks exactly like something that will straighten out a lot of ?
thanks
Nice videos. If a picture is worth a thousand words, then a video is worth the commercials, then a video is worth pixels times as many, then a video is worth more. Some different techniques to try.
You’re all welcome. (And thanks for the complements folks.)
I struggled with soldering for a long time - but I don’t feel like the struggle was at all necessary to become proficient. The struggle was all because I hadn’t learned to solder correctly, it was not part of the learning process. If you find that the soldering is not as easy for you as it looks in my videos, please post about where you’re getting hung up.
For me the biggest sources of problems tended to be excessive use of force and/or applying heat for too long. IMO generally both of those problems are/were actually symptoms of either a technique or equipment problem. Nobody uses too much force or heats for too long just for the heck of it…
Go do it! If you want to start with something disposable then strip some of the worthless 2-amp DD drivers, you’re probably saving a pile for no good reason. (I know I am.)
What aspect do you have trouble with?
Which boards? If you have the parts what do you need a list for!? 
Check posts #36 & 38 in the driver thread for A17DD-SO8 parts from Digikey and Mouser. I’d go with Mouser because the shipped cost is significantly lower.
I’m using ~392° Celsius. I rarely adjust, check, or pay attention to the temp knob.
I think I’d spring for the Pomona, but I wouldn’t get it from Digikey! There should be plenty of options for European folks to pickup a Pomona 5250… I think you can keep it under $20 USD. This ebay seller for example: Cpt-063 Test Clip Soic8 Pomona 5250 for sale online | eBay EDIT: the shipping preview price seems to be very wrong. Maybe this Italian seller instead?~~ http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Clip-Test-SOIC-8-pin-Cable-POMONA-5250-ORIGINALE-/271702107691?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_101&hash=item3f42b5262b
As to the flashing, DavidEF’s link is exactly where I would have sent you. Hoop drew on all the scattered BLF resources I normally refer back to, as well as probably a couple of things I missed. 
Be very gentle with your SOIC clip, do not pull on or attempt to bend the contact pins.
Mainly trying to keep the components in place. I’m probably applying too much force.
SMD parts do seem to have a very low escape velocity.
You’re probably right. The iron only requires gentle pressure; it’s the same for the tweezers and component. In the videos I think the only time I applied any pressure was with the solder wick, which I’m not always very good at using. I should have added flux instead of pressure. The rest of the video I’m really just placing the iron against things.
If heat isn’t moving from the iron to the target then maybe it’s time to clean and re-tin the iron or maybe add some flux to the area the joint needs to be in.
I most often lose components when they escape my tweezer death-grip. There’s no reason for that much pressure on the tweezers but I’m impatient, stubborn, and over-eager enough to have the problem regularly.
Wow very nice videos. It’s most informative to see how you do this. Thanks!
oh wight…I ordered some of that no clean liquid flux
You’re video’s made it look “too” easy
Thanks wight for trying to find some more affordable options, but unfortunately the italian ebay sellers price would be 58$ delivered to Sweden
But thanks to chouster i think we have found the cheapest price yet for the pomona test clip in the EU only 29.51$ delivered, nice now i have to check if tme have some of the driver components so i can order them at the same time, thanks again chouster you saved me 30$
So in the EU the final cost for the MCU flasher kit amounts to
Pomona test clip 29.51$ delivered
USB programmer from fasttech $3.93
https://www.fasttech.com/products/1002900
40-pin Splittable Ribbon Cable (20cm) from fasttech $1.99
https://www.fasttech.com/products/1011800
Total = 35,42$
I want also to build the A17DD-SO8, so from my understanding all the parts are from the nanjg 105d like the resistors, capacitor and the attiny except the FET and otc that i have to buy separately? How about the 105c, are the components the same as the 105d?