For guys that don't know. Measure lux at the upper part of the beam where are emitter wires. Beam has best intensity around this wires. If you measure on lower and wider part of the beam(square) you will get lower readings on lux meter.
Yes. I learned that from Saabluster(deft x maker) posts at cpf and it is true. That is only valid for aspheric types of lights while for reflector it does not matter since it has different beam projection. Around that upper wires parts square area light has most intensity(especially on edges) while in middle and lower part of the beam has lower intensity.
I just checked mine again 5800 at upper part and 5000 in lower part (7meters). 15 and more% difference. So yes it really matters where you measure.
Reflectors need distance to collimate, i.e. close to the flashlight there's a hole in the beam. Aspheric lights do not have that, and they can focus. So as soon as the die is projected well at the measuring plane you're good to go. Only if you come very close to the flashlight (within a meter or so?), the focussing gets the lens in a significant different distance to the led compared to infinity, which alters the percentage of the light that is getting through the lens and the optical path through the lens is affected in other ways. You may get abberant readings from the luxmeter then.
I have measured a UF-T20 from 1 meter, two meter and 5 meter, and get effectively the same throw number.
Yeah I think so, aspherical lens might behave a little different with the reflector. I wish I could try to measure mine at a longer distance but it is inconvenient for me to do so.
By the way I have fixed my LD-40 driver last night and I still only get 310kcd out of it though. Well I think I will just live with it, at least it is running with a buck driver which is always my preference.
Hi Rob, haven't seen you here for a while. There is nothing wrong with a good direct drive, a few of my favorite mods do not have a driver, but 1)the xpe2 can not handle direct drive, 2)the UF-1405 has two batteries in series, the led will not survive direct drive, you need a buck driver or use one dummy battery, 3)there are great drivers now, finetuned by BLF-members, that direct drive the led as if they were not there, but do add convenient lower modes by using PWM.
since my DMM is good again (tripped the 10A fuse with my 12 XM-L2 project) i gave the 1405 some time…
i put a R100 on the R120 and got from 0,85A to 2,2 A with black 5200 mAh Keeppower
everyting else is stock (the XP-G2 on noctigon is on the way to swap in)
my Luxmeter gives me around 77 kCd - could that be true?
my HD2010 (4,4A with a BLF17DD and dedomed XM-L2) gives 100 kCd in the same setup…
I was told that also many times, so I started measuring at longer distances (standard at 5m now), but for an aspheric light that did not give significant different numbers from measuring at 1 meter.
i am facing a problem with the driver i have modded it with a resistor equal to R010 and i was getting 2.6 at the tail cap reading with a XP-G2
and suddenly the flashlight stopped working and then i found a component on the driver fryed, pics will tell, it is the component that the ( - ) to led wire is connected to it and there is another one beside it with the same name but it looks nothing happened to it
the one on the is the damaged one
so any solution ? what is this component ? and can i replace it ? if no any other driver ?
well as i cant fix this driver and i know i cant find a 17mm driver that can take 2 cells in series so i will trim the bill and flat it then i will try to use a 26mm driver something like this TR-0124B 8.4V but i want a driver with a smaller height so can any one please suggest me a driver with 26mm diameter with a short height and can be modded to 5 or 6A ?