And has the two wires connected to the star with some kind of component also on the star just beside the 2 wires. I don’t know about all that stuff.
Will be a type of thermocouple, as the heat changes the resistance increases etc.
Interesting that its built into the star though
Chris
Someone tell me how well the 2Xshooter measures up to the M2X? In brightness and throw, how does it measure up stock?
Stock, the Javelot is the better thrower pretty solidly. That’s considering my Triton was the older XM-L version.
I tried bumping power on the Triton a bit more and , uh, well, lets just say that the newer XM-L2’s don’t like 8A.
I went through some old de-domed XM-L2 emitters and checked forward voltage in direct drive off a Sanyo lap pull. Found one that was sitting at 3.49Vf in full direct drive. Bingo!
So I put that one on the star, dug through my stuff and found the big, thick copper star that came out of a TK61…cut that to fit snugly into the pill under the aluminum star. So it’s got some backup, as it were. I pulled one of the 2 R056 resistors I’d stacked, left the R025 on. At the emitter, with a pair of Sanyo lap pulls in semi charged state, it showed 6.65A on the clamp meter. I grabbed a pair of Efest 35A and topped em off in the charger, tail amperage shows 3.65A from these! .19A in low, which is in line with what low did at the emitter on the Sanyo’s, .39A.
Does this mean I’m seeing about 7A now? Still only makes 1221 lumens and the lux actually has dropped to 186.5Kcd.
So, pushing this Triton for all it’s worth on the stock driver it still doesn’t stack up against the Javelot with a piggybacked BLF FET driver. Crazy, huh?
Not very often.
This one is no exception. I discovered that the thick Aluminum star in the Triton is not Direct Thermal Path, hence the big drops in lumens during run tests. So, I improvised. I removed the de-domed older XM-L2, put it on a 20mm Noctigon but with copper pedestals under it to raise it up for better focus ability. Then I bored out the center of the big aluminum star for a press fit of the 20mm Noctigon into it. This keeps the Thermal Management and puts about 3.5mm of copper under the emitter.
I now have 1397.25 lumens at start, 1235.1 at 30 seconds, with 197.75Kcd and 889.38M throw. Whew! What a lot of work for the little gain, but now I know it’s the best it can be. With 7A from the stock driver and the light still functioning as normal, it’s time to leave this one alone. 
I think the little brother, the M2X-UT Javelot, still outdoes it…which is very impressive indeed!
Thats dedication!
Chris
DBCstm
What do you think, how far can be default Lavelot driver pushed? Cause LD1 modded Y3 beats it( U3-2a emitter, from IOS) , and with 4200ma Keeppower battery it ever outruns it
Still havent recieved the extender tube though…
Compared to Sniper M24, they are virtualy the same, ofc M24 is heavier…now Amanda sended me the second edition one, but it will come who knows when
I stacked R056 resistors on top of each R100 and got 3.56A. I didn’t want to blow it, so that’s as far as I went before pulling the stock driver and going with the BLF FET version.
Thanks for the Great review Dale. I’m currently looking at the TrustFire X9 in the same form factor, to save some money. Maybe any other recommendations for a good value for money ‘Javelot M2X Clone’?
DB,
I had no luck at all, I could only open the driver’s thread. Unlike your picture, my M2XS seems to have red loctite on it, not blue like yours. Judging by the smells it is definitely a threadlocker. Killed two baby boa. Heated the bezel with hot air gun to a bit more than 100C (water droplets vaporize instantly). I stopped because there’s an o-ring inside (I saw from your picture)
I made two pair of round clamps from wood and clamp the bezel to a vise while turned the smaller head using another smaller vise. Because the smaller head has vertical grooves, it’s very slippery and requires high clamping force. I stopped because I think I already put too much clamping force to the bezel and I don’t want to break the glass, the aluminum bezel is too thin.
I need to know if the thread at the bezel is clockwise or anti clockwise before I continue to try again.
It seems Olight really protective about this one =(
Many thanks,
Clemence
Clockwise, and yes the bezel is very thin on these. They gave it the largest possible reflector/lens diameter which of course has the potential to cause us issues if modifying.
I have put the parts in a baggie and boiled them before, but it sure makes it difficult to handle when trying to disassemble.
Good Luck!
these are the shunt resistors, right?
this flashlight runs too cool, need to overclock 
There is a new M2x Javelot revision btw, the XLP got a new full cover pad, the tint is already 4500k( not like the first XLP HI versions) and the tail amps are 3.4 by default and 170-176k cds( tested all 5)
Now thats a realy good XPG2 host :bigsmile:
Got 5 of those, all are the same- the head isnt glued too, will try swapping the emitter`s wires plus a spring bypass
When my Dad see’s one like that he’s amazed at the sheer intensity of light coming from that comparatively tiny little yellow dot down in the bottom of the reflector. “All that light is coming from THAT?”
I just got my second M2X-UT from *. Tested it right off the box. It didn’t throw as far as my first one!!! The hot spot was bigger and elongated to one side. I heard that some people also experienced lower performance from the new M2X-UT using XP-L HI emitter
The tint is better, more like “normal” cool white, not the greenish warm tint.
When I went back to my house and checked what’s wrong with the flashlight I found these:
I guess this is the cause of some new M2X-UT sold. It’s not the emitter but the misalignment of the emitter relative to the reflector. My new M2X-UT plastic center alignment hole piece is circular not square. I suspect I got the batch from the transition period from XM-L2 to XP-L HI. 
Yes m8, unfortunately you got exacly this: there was a XPL version of M2X that wasnt that good but i thought its gone months ago
What is this? Can you explain? :-/
Guys, I had trouble opening my first M2X-UT several months ago. I asked Dale about it but I sold it before I open it. Then I bought two additional M2X-UT again from Stanley. The first one was a total failure from an enthusiast point of view. The report was up there. I asked Stanley about it and he told me he would ask Olight if the unit could be replaced. I got no answer ever since, I assumed that Olight never responded his question. I also send two emails directly to to company itself, no answer…. I don’t blame Stanley for this because it’s Olight’s responsibility to replace defective product via the distributor. If the factory doesn’t do it then it’s a dead end. Then I left the defective one in my stashbox until today. I was so curious about it.
Here’s my findings:
To my surprise the bezel wasn’t glued at all. Came off easily with a twist of my hands.
- I checked the current at the tail cap, with fresh 3400mA 18650 battery the current maxed in 2,11 A
- As I mentioned before the plastic piece is not centering the emitter. Now I found that the emitter also soldered off center.
- The MCPCB is totally different with what Dale posted. Fortunately it is still a direct thermal path one (tested the continuity with my multitester)
- I SUSPECT that this is not an XP-L HI emitter due to it’s greenish colour and convex silicone lens coating. The dome also asymmetric, thicker at one side. I think Olight was experimenting. They dedomed the emitter then dropped a (too much) silicone coating to make colour shifting less pronounced or to protect the emitter in the long run. I remember my first M2X-UT emitter’s bare die was oxidized (scroll up several threads up for the picture). And they were keep experimenting. My last M2X-UT was the best in every aspect with dedomed XP-L (was it HI or HD, I don’t know) and a very thin protective coating (it’s shiny viewed from the side). And the tint now also cool white without green taste on it.
Perhaps they did it to keep up with the boom of XP-L HI implementations by many manufacturers. They were the first to use custom dedomed XP-L, now everyone can have it with less effort. By keep dedoming, they get the slight edge of the competition. Enjoy the pictures:
I just checked mine, from Amazon.fr.
The PCB is not like yours and I confirm that my XP-L HI is flat, not convex at all
My knowledge in electronics are poor. I think putting two resistors R100 ( parallel) on the top of the two R050, the result will be similar to adding a single R056 . I am right? Will I burn the driver of my M2X if I use a single R100?
I have changed the finish of this light and i would like to get more throw.
Thank you.