Subbed and eagerly awaiting 
Still wondering what Mitko meant above with the picture captioned “A tiny copper piece on the mosfet helps alot though”
Hank, a little copper heat sink on top of the mosfet helps keep it from overheating and stepping down. Typically not a problem unless you’re running the ramping mode with an e-switch light and use levels up towards the top end quite a bit. Every little bit helps though, and I’ve thought about doing that with mine from time to time, but so far it really hasn’t seemed necessary.
I stuck a piece of copper on the 7135 chips in this MT-G2 mod back in August of 2013. Seems to have worked, the lights still working…
Yeah, DBCstm explaind it right, sorry for not responding earlier
I had that LD1 issue in Y3 host, and solved it with just a tiny piece of Cu( from a damaged 20mm Cu XML star PCB)
Would someone be so kind to point out where one can get suitable driver brass pillars? Back in 2013 i ordered some from FT, it was for an audio preamp project, they are out of stock atm…for maybe a year already
I just picked up a 3’ long 3/16” brass rod from the lumber store (Lowe’s, here) and cut off a piece with large pliers. Then mount it in a drill and cut it off at the length I need with a rotary tool. Spinning it while using a hack saw would do the same thing, keep the end square.
DBCstm, How did you attach the copper to the chips?
IOS carries 6x2mm and 6x1mm brass posts:
http://intl-outdoor.com/brass-pill-62mm-a-pair-p-327.html
http://intl-outdoor.com/brass-pill-61mm-a-pair-p-326.html
agarb, I just used Arctic Alumina Thermal Adhesive and glued it in place on top of the 4 chips. Pressed down firmly to ensure a thin layer between the copper and top of the chip, with enough ooze to firmly adhere it in place. Could also completely pot it with the copper on the heat source.
Would 3/16” brass brazing rod for gas welding work? Some of you guys might have to find someone who welds that uses rod that size and get some nubbins.
subscribed hoping it’ll be posted here when the new ones are for sale
HAPPY NEW YEAR! 
Waiting for restock. :)
I need an advice: for the 18650 flashlights, LD 1 driver and batteries
How does LG D1 4.35v one perform over VTC5 and Samsung 25r? Is there any point in getting them? Never tested D1 before…
As for 26650 LD1 based lights, i `ve found that :
KP IMR 4200 Black> Efest IMR 3500 Purple > Efest IMR 4200 Green > KingKong 4200 from FT> Trustfire 5000 Protected, the difference between first 3 isnt that big btw
<3.5Amps -LG D1 is best 18650 cell overall,which is impressive considering that D1 is several years old
>3.5Amps -power cells (if you want max. currents for short period of time)
How hard, or risky, is it to attach a spring or little brass contact bump to these boards?
What’s the best way?
Low temp solder bond- no risk at all
I have one of the drivers re-springed like 7 times( i have realtively steady hand), its very well made indeed( the driver), and it seems a higher temp solder paste was used when it was made
Here, A type spring plus 22 awg soft silicone wire is the best, believe me, i tried everything, its better even over brass or CU pills
Why should it be better than a cu pill?
Tested it with a Cu pill cut from a 6mm Cu rod bought from Practiker store nearby - cut it, then machine sand it , yet the spring is better, maybe the CU wasnt pure enough…definately not oxygen free like a quality wire…(if you find a silver plated wire- the better)…maybe a high quality rod will do, wonder where to find those
Any updates? Id love to buy some from you.
Patient you must be.
Is there a picture showing exactly where to solder on the red and black wires?
EDIT nevermind, I found it: http://i58.tinypic.com/2hyz77l.jpg
in the other thread: LD-1 driver (5A pwm-less linear) info thread