Okay, I just want to update my tailcap readings because I'm now using an Equus 3320, which clearly have more suitable leads. The results are much more in line with other X9 owners here and shows the driver to be a little more consistent than I originally believed.
1.85A on HIGH
1.00A on MED
0.20A on LOW
The DMM (or leads) do make a big difference and the Equus 3320 has proved to be far more consistent. In fact, I'll go as far as to say it's primarily the leads because I used the HF leads in the Equus and got similar results as I got with them plugged into the HF DMM.
All I can do is provide another X9 vs Keygos KE5 comparison, like Ian already did. Although I'd say the KE5 has gotta be pretty dang similar to the C8. Having the KE5 I see no reason to acquire the C8. You're good to go with either.
I'm visiting at the parents' place, which is many many miles from any significant ambient city light so it's a good place for beamshots and visual testing. They live on 40 acres and the neighbors all live on even larger parcels so that gives you an idea of the density ;) However, monday will literally have a full moon
Can't they just leave that silly 'CREE T6 made up lumens figure High Power Professional Super Bright Police In Yo' Face Sucka' off of the light and just stick with the brand? :) But yeah, mine is crooked as well. It also arrived in 9 days but from ebay seller cyberport888.
I like this host but not so much the issues with low current. Anyone seen it available as a host only? I can put a real U2 bin XM-L in it from lck led and a good SB driver for not much more $.
Not likely given that the emitter is especially mounted on an aluminum plate and impossible to swap. The only way to change the emitter seems to be to hack the old one off, mount a star on top of the plate and get a thinner lens, instead of the 4mm one, to compensate and provide the room.
Changing the Emitter to U2 bin is barely not noticeble in brightness, best improvement ist to change the driver, I modded mine with a 2,8A 3-mode from SB and an Ultrafire reverse clicky (forward and multimode is a no-go). As the driver protudes a bit higher than the stock driver it is necessary to sand down the brass minus-contact a bit to screw on the tailcap completely. Adding thermal paste to the threads of the pill is also recommended to give more heat to the head with the cooling fins.
what can i say still being a novice here... I bought X9 from ebay and UF 980L from MF. I don't have any digital measuring device. But, what i observed, i love 980L for its optimum size and brightness. X9 is really better thrower without any modding. I always thinking in consideration of optimization, so, although 980L is a bit expensive, if you aren't a professional 980L is have the advantage in front of X9. The size is almost half and brightness almost same. As i said X9 is a better thrower, from my obserwation in fullmoon X9 was throwing 300-400 metres (i have bilateral hipermetrop astighmate- i wont search the exact translation from google so sorry :) ) 980L is very close to it (maybe less than 50 metres). But, what i dont know quality of the inner structure quality of the torchs. I heard from here some guys burned 980L's. So, brightness isn't the most important issue if you are a budget looking customer. Finally, i can say that if you have 980L, no need to have X9 or vice versa....
How would you compare the difference in output with the jump to 2.8A over the average of 1.8A? I imagine the body still handles the heat transfer fairly well. Also, could you provide the link for the Ultrafire reverse clicky? Thanks
I got mine today. 1.7 A on xtar 2600 at 4.18 v. Nice looking like but I am feeling underwhelmed. May as well have got a KD C8.
update: Maybe I was a little harsh. I do really like the design. I compared it with my trustfire c8 (not as good as the KD C8) and the hotspot is brighter. I expect it to throw further due to the larger head. I still wish I was getting higher tail readings. I was hoping to get 2.6 A +
How would you compare the difference in output with the jump to 2.8A over the average of 1.8A? I imagine the body still handles the heat transfer fairly well. Also, could you provide the link for the Ultrafire reverse clicky? Thanks
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The output ist noticable brighter, I cannot compare to some other stock lights as all lights I have are modded :-)
Heat transfer ist good but thermal paste should be used to give more heat to head as the batterty tube ist heating up as well.
Right now I am using a clicky from a C8 but I have some of these on the way:
I just bought the KD driver to upgrade my X9, could anybody show a pix of the driver with soldered wires just to give me idea what to do? Anyways, still have 3 weeks waiting for parts bought.
I guess a bunch of us that bought the Ebay X9 flashlights are going to be in the same boat. That is, we have never done a driver mod before, but now we need to learn how.
I have seen the posts and pics on this forum about how to solder the stars to determine modes and how to solder to the + and -, however I have not seen inside the X9 to see how hard the removal and replacement will be.
I hope that someone with experience will do a tutorial that will make it possible for us to do the job.
Ian2381,
Scroll down in this thread to see a pic about how to wire the board:
