How would you compare the difference in output with the jump to 2.8A over the average of 1.8A? I imagine the body still handles the heat transfer fairly well. Also, could you provide the link for the Ultrafire reverse clicky? Thanks
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The output ist noticable brighter, I cannot compare to some other stock lights as all lights I have are modded :-)
Heat transfer ist good but thermal paste should be used to give more heat to head as the batterty tube ist heating up as well.
Right now I am using a clicky from a C8 but I have some of these on the way:
I just bought the KD driver to upgrade my X9, could anybody show a pix of the driver with soldered wires just to give me idea what to do? Anyways, still have 3 weeks waiting for parts bought.
I guess a bunch of us that bought the Ebay X9 flashlights are going to be in the same boat. That is, we have never done a driver mod before, but now we need to learn how.
I have seen the posts and pics on this forum about how to solder the stars to determine modes and how to solder to the + and -, however I have not seen inside the X9 to see how hard the removal and replacement will be.
I hope that someone with experience will do a tutorial that will make it possible for us to do the job.
Ian2381,
Scroll down in this thread to see a pic about how to wire the board:
Changing the driver is no harder than doing it on a p60 pill. The only difference is that the driver is going to need longer wires than what may come already on the replacement. You can just use the ones from the original driver if you want.
Now I'm just curious if its possible (by someone like me) to reflow a different LED on this "star" being so big and heavy. I really would love to have this thing in neutral, I'm just afraid the star will hold too much heat and damage the LED. I may just pull the star and fit a copper slug into the opening and mount a conventional 20mm star. I'll have to measure it, but it might just be easier to go that route.
This is absolutely true especially if the emitter is really a T6 bin XM-L. That being said, I have experienced an enormous difference in output between a DX purchased "T6" XM-L and a U2 XM-L from lckled despite the U2 being driven at 2.2A and the "T6" at just over 3A (in a bigger host as well).
Either way, I was suggesting the U2 if building the X9 up from a bare host not as an emitter upgrade. Might as well get the highest bin if get to chose.
With the new NANJG 105C driver I didn't have enough room for protected cells. The tailcap wouldn't screw on fully and the light would come on even when the switch was off (the negative end of cell was contacting the switch retaining ring). This can be solved, but you're going to have to find a washer or two to substitute for the large white spacer in the tailcap.
Also, you'll need to trim the nub off the inside of the boot. The boot is held in by the stainless trim ring, so that needs to be unscrewed. I just used my needlenose pliers in the indents of the ring to break it loose.
So..if I read correctly the X9 cannot take protected 18650s after replacement of said 2.8A driver?. This has me a little confused as it seams others on here have also modded the driver and made no mention of being unable to use protected 18650. If you don't mind Mitro...would you mind explaining to me why there is a difference in clearance between the stock driver and custom driver and the extent of that difference (i.e..is the replacement thicker then the stock one, or does it have to be mounted in a different location?).
The NANJG 105C has components on the contact side of the driver which makes it necessary to have a spring (included) and it takes away at least 3mm from the space in the battery tube. Maybe some people won’t have any problems, but it was very apparent with mine once I put a Callie’s Kustoms 3100 in it.
I refrained from installing the NANJG 105 because on my sample it would lead to the same issues that mitro has encountered.
Waiting for good unprotected batteries in hope of avoiding body rework that NANJG would call for.
At the moment, with stock driver, I'm getting 2.05A measured from an AW 2200 (computed about 2.2A in real use), which is quite bearable. The reflector size and quality make up for the lower power. Of course, we strive for both...
Will this upgrade going to be an issue using AW 2200mah and XTAR 18700 2600mah protected batteries? bought this driver to upgrade my X9 using these batteries.
The gasket the diameter of the board and the metal disk will both add their own thickness. I'd rather just dremel-cut a couple of turns off the spring, leaving only as much as needed for the battery shoulder to clear the board components (taking into account some pressure against the spring). That, IMO, would be the most space-conscious solution.
Not shure if that would be enough, though.
If the above doesn't work, a well-known solution is to remove the entire spring and replace it with a fat blob of solder thick enough for the battery to clear the components. You might need to periodically clean the tin oxide on that blob to keep the light at top performance. I have done this on another light and as far as I can tell, the oxide doesn't seem to be a problem at all.
