New-117 (TK35 clone) mod. Turn a TK35 into a TK35UE (Updated with Beamshots 3-jan-2015)

-Yup common sense strikes again. :slight_smile:

dnkyblf

I guess My questions to the greater community are:

  1. What can be done with the existing boards (I believe this is largely answered) but I wanted to leave the door open if there is an idea out there.
  1. - Is there a consensus around “driver” that is available that replaces one or both boards and can be screwed in and wires connected?
  1. If there is no “#2 solution” then what or whom are good sources to get involved to get’er done. :slight_smile:

Kevin

wight,

I have read both links provided -done

Regarding wiring I did not intend it to sound like a dig, I simply saw a bit about 18g wire that you and cereal killer discussed. As far as what I am looking at, it is the 3rd photo of this post (don’t want that to sound like a smarta)

My plan is to buy some 22g or maybe 24g if you say that is not beyond the point of diminishing returns for the mods to this clone, if that’s a bad call let me know.

The AxxDD-SO8 sounds like a good easy solution. do I need to strip out components from the existing boards? or does it really just fit in there?

I know enough to know I don’t want to learn how to design PCB’s, I know that the folks here who do the designing have forgotten more then I will every know.

With that said my gut still tells me “we” should have a MT-G2 emitter (“bolts in”) driver for this light. it just deserves it! :slight_smile:

Oh and this thread “17mm single-sided / DD driver w/ low parasitic drain for e-switch lights: AxxDD-SO8+LDO” started by a very smart guy at 17mm++ single-sided / DD driver w/ low parasitic drain for e-switch lights: AxxDD-SO8+LDO seems to make a good case for a design with no zener diode in it, although this TK35 clone is clearly a clicky light (aka mechanical switch) and as the thread says thus parasitic drag is a non issue, but the moonlight mode argument is a good point.

Yes I can see you were the thread OP. :slight_smile: maybe you are just the guy to come up with a PCB’s / Driver for this itching MT-G2 platform?

After reading both threads you probably see how DD works: between battery voltage sagging and LED current being tightly tied to current, cell performance dictates maximum drive current…. assuming your DD driver is good (Like A17DD-SO8 or BLF17DD, which is just as good.) The performance of the stock driver with resistors bypassed is limited by the baby FET and the inductor (coil).

I did not take the wiring comment as a dig, don’t worry. I often need clarification when people mention things. 18AWG is only for extreme mods. 22AWG will be fine for your purposes I think.

The A17DD-SO8 is very small. Take a look at the pictures in the OP of the driver thread. I’m sure there are more pictures deeper in the thread, but those should suffice. If I was putting it in the stock light I’d strip the bottom PCB. I don’t think the top PCB needs to be stripped. All you really need to get to the new driver is BAT, GND, and SW. All you really need to get to the top/contact PCB is LED- and BAT+.

Unless supply shows up again there doesn’t seem to be much point in making a new driver for an unavailable light.

I wouldn’t bother for this application. If you are interested in very low moonlight levels then one of the new drivers (DD+single-7135) would be a good choice except for the lack of a Zener or LDO. You can still Zener mod them as I mention briefly in this thread: [WIP] 17mm DD+single-7135 driver / single sided / Dual-PWM

The lights are available, It is not like they are out of production (yes the names on model numbers keep changing but it is the same tooling). As single cell lights have been the big mover it has lost is appeal from 2011 or when the tk35 came out. But now with folks showing a growing interest in 2S, MT-G2 mods I bet this will be ever more available as “they” see market demand.

To some degree the TK35 UE and the new Nitecore P36 are cases in point of new supply for similar 2S MT-G2 lights.

Links?

Dealsmachine has them, ordered one a few days back. Shipping was 3$ or so.

wight,

I have also found that they can be also listed under the following model numbers:

Small Sun ZY-T92
New-117
117
Unique Fire UF-F10B
UniqueFire UF-F10
S020017
RD-777
W777
and some times “mislabeled” as Fenix TK35

I think in my search I found the “current” mfg but I am not sure? The distributor I bought mine from I know is operating under two different names.

I think if the Mfg was smart they would release their own “TK35UE” for the market but maybe they need some help? Which might be one of the benefits of a forum like BLF. So maybe both our community and the Mfg can benefit from each other.

I was also thinking that it sounds like you could whip out a board design pretty fast because as I understand it, it is not really a design challenge other then laying a “smaller” design on a larger board that has the holes for the screws and wires added in the right place. Yes I am sure I have over simplified it, but 3-5 brightness modes or if strobe or sos flickers first does not seem to me a deal breaker. But having the ability to open it up, solder bigger wires coming of the batteries and then screw in the new boards and solder the needed wires in place could put this on the short list of desirable hosts to mod or for a “new new 117” to be built on.

To me one of the questions is, “Is the MT-G2 emitter usage in growth phase or has it peaked and has matured and is now on the decline phase of the its life cycle. for use in Flashlights?”

Or maybe I have flashaholism? and I am not able to make rational decisions? :slight_smile:

this is correct, if i would try and hook up a XM-L (3V vf) the LED would go poof. i went with shorting out the sense resistors just because it was easy and fast. it gave me the exact output i wanted as this light does not have a great amout of heatsinking and would get to hot if it would run on high for a longer time. i am still looking for a propper ramping firmware, so if anyone knows one feel free to PM me.

as im having finals i have not found any time to take some beamshot. as soon as i can (and if i dont forget) ill take some and post them here, but there is no real hot spot when using this light outside. but because of the amount of light it can still throw 200 - 250meters

wight,

cereal killer said

“I just did a new-117 for a guy here and really liked it, I’ve got another I’ll be doing for myself when I have time.

I used the factory driver but stripped off the MCU and used a 10F322 air wired on with UFLC which works really well with this switch setup (also resistor modded it for the desired output). It’s a pretty damn good driver once you get rid of the horrid PWM rate, seems to remain in regulation down to about 3.85v (per cell) from what I was able to see.”

I am sure that makes sense to you, I have no idea what a 10F322 or a UFLC does

the 10F322 is a µC: http://www.microchip.com/wwwproducts/Devices.aspx?dDocName=en552977
UFLC is a Firmware: Ultimate FlashLight Code.

My notes on how it was previously sold are/were similar: What is most powerful 2x18650 flashlight in side by side series circuit format? - That said, it’s out of stock from the normal sources. I won’t pay >$30 for this to use as an MT-G2 host. (I have one, the quality does not put it >$30 IMO.) As per tryps Dealsmachine seems like the best source at the moment (if they are telling the truth about stock) but I don’t think highly of their price.

The bottom PCB probably needs at least one component removed for any driver replacement and a custom driver would still need to be assembled… so it’s really on great advantage.

As far as the MT-G2 peaking… who cares? High voltage definitely isn’t peaking, so we’ll continue to see emitters which need at least 2s just to DD.

Thanks tryps!

I always recommend a sense resistor mod rather than a sense resistor bypass. If you aren’t comfortable with higher currents in that host (fair enough) then you won’t be able to drop high drain cells into the light as you have it built now. With a resistor mod you could. A resistor mod would also allow you to use 4*CR123A in a pinch, not that most of us are commonly in the sort of pinch where we have access to CR123A’s, but still. OTOH you’d be forced to settle with a somewhat lower maximum drive current with the resistor mod.

As far as ramping firmwares, take a look at what ToyKeeper and comfychair were working on over in comfychair’s Roche F6 hacking thread. The Roche F6 is also a dual-switch light, but I don’t recall whether these firmwares included memory or what. The firmware called Ferrero_Rocher or maybe “Ramping_UI_table.c”? in ToyKeeper’s repository is probably what you want (it has ramping and other features). I think the development conversation continued elsewhere.

dentillozie is right. Not very interesting to me, the barrier for entry with PIC is slightly too high and I’m already setup for Atmel (ATtiny / Atmega). UFLC has plenty of great functionality but runs only on PIC of course…

EDIT: struck incorrect text.

Just looked my order up out of curiosity, it was 22,26$+3ish$ shipping. Ordered 12-30-14 and shipped today.
So they raised the price somehow.

Couldn’t help but notice that the Roche F6 is not a dual-switch light. It’s electronic switch only.
EE F35 is dual switch but single cell. Convoy L4 is dual switch and 8,4V capable. It’s driver (LD34) might work a treat but I don’t know if it fits physicaly.

I think JonnyC’s FW is dual switch capabale isn’t it. That way we would have to get an attiny to work and control the CC buck circuit. (IMO zener or voltage regulator is nessesery, air wireing and most likely a breakout board would be mandetory)

I don’t know if CerealKiller is reading but it might be a lot easier if he’d make a small post/writeup and even better if he would sell some small amout of pre programmed PICs if they work good. All that would require him to spend quiet some time and is not taken for granted, he might have a full schedule.

I noticed that the price that’s listed on www.chinaprices.cn for dealsmachine was too low. I guess it’s because they just raised the price. IMO that indicates that they do have stock and plan to be unable to resupply.

Good point on the F6! My mistake, I’ve edited to strike the text.

JonnyC did write a dual switch version of STAR, but it does not receive regular updates. I’m sure it’s quite far behind the other versions on both features and testing. (It also doesn’t have ramping!) The primary differences between dual switch firmwares and regular momentary firmwares is that dual switch versions do not have an “off” level and dual-switch can have memory. Nothing huge really.

As far as actually wiring in the ATtiny13A, yes it’s easy… a Zener is already present, so there’s probably no need to add one. Using a Nanjg-105c or other PCB as a breakout is recommended for simplicity, but whatever.

CK hasn’t been on much, I take it that he’s busy with IRL stuff right now. UFLC isn’t CK’s though, it’s tterev3’s firmware. tterev3 is willing to program PICs as a service, I’m not sure what the best way to get in touch is… maybe PM? tterev3's PIC quickstart guide

Glad to see you know everything about me and can answer for me….

No I’m not on much but it’s cause I’m just to busy (and also I’m not to happy with the direction the forums have gone recently), I’m still building light’s daily and still doing driver’s, infact BU_CK is up and running (in a 22mm size driver) and has been shipping out in multi-cell lights for the last few weeks now!

Now back to this topic, I did one of these with UFLC and an MT-G2 a while ago (as in several months ago), great light for it with both switches at the rear (meaning the power switch act’s for momentary use then you get the rest of the functions with the mode button). I did it by swapping my 10F322 onto the stock driver (of course resistor modded) tho if I were to do another I’d just stick a BU_CK in it and be done. If someone is interested in getting some pre-programmed PIC’s from me just drop me a line. I’m about 4-5 weeks backed up right now on turn-key light’s but I can program bare PIC’s and drop them in the mail without the wait if someone need’s a few. Just EMAIL me

Glad to see you back CK. After not seeing you post for a few weeks, I began to fear you had fell ill.

Now if we only knew if Comfy is doing ok. He hasn’t posted in forever.

it was pretty much just to try out, i dont have any resistors at the moment but i have some on order. when i the ship is ready to be changed i will do it all at one go.

thanks for the firmware tips i am having a look into them. i looked at the luxdrv-30b code but i have not got enough time to do enough reseach.

finaly added some beamshots. they are crappy quality i had to take them with my phone.

The beam looks pretty pleasant to me. :slight_smile:

simple and great mod, thank you!