Review TrustFire TR-3T6 Triple XM-L T6 5-Modes Memory LED Flashlight (3x18650)

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agenthex
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benckie wrote:

 

to true but since you have Rev 0 3800 i will ask you to do the same test as i did since my mate is to chicken and report the current draw increase and the temp please.



I don't have the extension for 3 18650, but I can try it with 3 CR123's (also don't have 3 identical 16340's).
---
Actually, 3 primaries is only 9v, not that much better than 8v. I'll try it w/ a 18650 and the two flame 16340's I have if I can find the second 16340.

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agenthex
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Ok, found everything and tried w/ 2 16340 and 1 18650 (12V total). 2.6A, vs 2.73 minimum (quickly rising to 3A) for 2 cells (at max 8.4v). Quite bright, about 50% more light on the meter. Suspect just going to DD? Not going to try runtime, given this isn't exactly the safest setup for it, esp since I can be absentminded sometimes.

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benckie
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rising to 3 amp quickly she might smoke

 

try the run time test i did on 2 x 18650,s

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agenthex wrote:

Ok, found everything and tried w/ 2 16340 and 1 18650 (12V total). 2.6A, vs 2.73 minimum (quickly rising to 3A) for 2 cells (at max 8.4v). Quite bright, about 50% more light on the meter. Suspect just going to DD? Not going to try runtime, given this isn't exactly the safest setup for it, esp since I can be absentminded sometimes.

You tried 3 cells on the SR3800 rev 0?  The 16340 are going to sag man, so not sure what is the real voltage, but we'll make do.  Main thing is that it does 50% more light on meter, that's the bottomline.   Money mouth  

Remember Thommy? He has a SBOMZ triple XM-L, the only guy i am aware of with the SBOMZ which takes 4 cells with all the happening extensions. 3 cells it's 1.77A, 4 cells it is 1.3x A.  But he mentioned it could not work on 2-cells.  He ain't posting nowadays, after he received a DOA of something from Manafont (forgot what is it)

The Trustfire TF-3T6 reports the same light on 2 or 3 cells.

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benckie wrote:

rising to 3 amp quickly she might smoke

 

try the run time test i did on 2 x 18650,s

What I mean is that I measured it @2.6A at 12v on the cells total. The 2.7/3A number is for 2 cell (min 2.7A and goes to 3A pretty quickly, before voltage even drops to 8v). I might charge up the cells to full (12.4v or so on my undercharging chargers) and see if it goes up (DD) or down (regulation).

2100 already did a lot of runtime test for 2 cell. It goes to like 4A+ towards the end until it has some kind of low voltage cutoff.

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2100 wrote:

agenthex wrote:

Ok, found everything and tried w/ 2 16340 and 1 18650 (12V total). 2.6A, vs 2.73 minimum (quickly rising to 3A) for 2 cells (at max 8.4v). Quite bright, about 50% more light on the meter. Suspect just going to DD? Not going to try runtime, given this isn't exactly the safest setup for it, esp since I can be absentminded sometimes.

You tried 3 cells on the SR3800 rev 0?  The 16340 are going to sag man, so not sure what is the real voltage, but we'll make do.  Main thing is that it does 50% more light on meter, that's the bottomline.   Money mouth  

Remember Thommy? He has a SBOMZ triple XM-L, the only guy i am aware of with the SBOMZ which takes 4 cells with all the happening extensions. 3 cells it's 1.77A, 4 cells it is 1.3x A.  But he mentioned it could not work on 2-cells.  He ain't posting nowadays, after he received a DOA of something from Manafont (forgot what is it)

The Trustfire TF-3T6 reports the same light on 2 or 3 cells.

The SBOMZ has a buck driver, no boost. Entirely different to these.

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2100
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Ok, if anybody wants to get the 3-cell TF-3T6, can add $2 for the extension at CNQG.  So it's $47.  I think if you ask him to test, he will test for ya....he's a flashaholic man.  Big Smile

Buy more then of course it could be a few dollars more for DHL shipping and stuff etc.  Sometimes i even see EMS to be cheaper than registered air. MF does not do no negotiations.

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Just wondering if these lights on ebay are the same.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/270788479701

http://www.ebay.com/itm/160645560923

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fishmaniac wrote:

Just wondering if these lights on ebay are the same.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/270788479701

http://www.ebay.com/itm/160645560923

Indeed they are but they are the 2-cell version. I got the 3-cell version which can be used in 2 or 3 cell configurations for more options. Looks like a good price though.
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Cool.

Sorry if I missed the info, but would the 3cell config be any brighter than the 2 cell? Or would you just get additional runtime?

 

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fishmaniac wrote:

Cool.

Sorry if I missed the info, but would the 3cell config be any brighter than the 2 cell? Or would you just get additional runtime?

 

As I recall the 3-cell is 0.5A stronger driven as well as increased runtime plus you can remove the extension and run in 2-cell mode if you like.
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The driver decreases current as more cells are added. It's the same light btw.

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I disagree about that, the higher the voltage the less current needed, less current less heat. The 3 cell would be the best pick and I would be careful about eBay lights and be concerned about genuine products
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Jarosf wrote:

Hi, i just realized great thing(at least for me). Thanks to buck/boost driver used in our 3T6 lights we can use 4xAA to power them. They will fit in almost perfectly(with extension tube) and due to strong springs on both sides there is almost no rattling so no modding is needed. I know that this is not for general use but as a backup in low mode it's perfect.

Now THIS is an interesting find. Thanks to Jarosf for reporting it. Welcome to BLF by the way, nice contribution to start!

So how does this work with 4xAA? Do you just jam them in there, or do you use some sort of container? Sorry, I don't own this light (yet), and I'm seriously interested in it now.

@Fran: Why can the 4xAA configuration only be used with the 3-cell version?

What about 1x18650?

So, where to buy this at if I want the 4xAA option? CNQ or Manafont?

Thanks a lot!

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fishmaniac
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sb56637 wrote:

So how does this work with 4xAA? Do you just jam them in there, or do you use some sort of container? Sorry, I don't own this light (yet), and I'm seriously interested in it now.

@Fran: Why can the 4xAA configuration only be used with the 3-cell version?

My guess is that the 4 AA's are in series, so the 3 cell would be needed for the length. I too am very interested in this light. Ebay also sells the 3-cell version with the extension, but it's $57.00.

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fishmaniac wrote:

sb56637 wrote:

So how does this work with 4xAA? Do you just jam them in there, or do you use some sort of container? Sorry, I don't own this light (yet), and I'm seriously interested in it now.

@Fran: Why can the 4xAA configuration only be used with the 3-cell version?

My guess is that the 4 AA's are in series, so the 3 cell would be needed for the length. I too am very interested in this light. Ebay also sells the 3-cell version with the extension, but it's $57.00.

Ah, right, I bet it's for length. I didn't think they would be installed inline.

What about the DRY light? Would it be possible to jam in a bunch of AA cells in parallel?

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benckie wrote:
I disagree about that, the higher the voltage the less current needed, less current less heat. The 3 cell would be the best pick and I would be careful about eBay lights and be concerned about genuine products

Last time I checked, Watts = Heat, not Amps.  Current * Volts = Watts.

10Volts at 1 Amp = 10 Watts

1Volts at 10 Amps = 10 Watts

With LED's of today, roughly 80-85% of that energy will be wasted as heat, so a 10 Watt LED will generate about 8 or 8.5 Watts of Heat.  Volts and amps are irrelevant by themselves, it's the product of them that matters.

 

PPtk

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sb56637 wrote:
Ah, right, I bet it's for length. I didn't think they would be installed inline.

What about the DRY light? Would it be possible to jam in a bunch of AA cells in parallel?

The 3x XM-L DRY is a no-go due to voltage constraints.

The Long-Run DRY single XM-L could potentially work, if someone made a series 4 x AA holder.

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PilotPTK wrote:

benckie wrote:
I disagree about that, the higher the voltage the less current needed, less current less heat. The 3 cell would be the best pick and I would be careful about eBay lights and be concerned about genuine products

Last time I checked, Watts = Heat, not Amps.  Current * Volts = Watts.

10Volts at 1 Amp = 10 Watts

1Volts at 10 Amps = 10 Watts

With LED's of today, roughly 80-85% of that energy will be wasted as heat, so a 10 Watt LED will generate about 8 or 8.5 Watts of Heat.  Volts and amps are irrelevant by themselves, it's the product of them that matters.

 

PPtk

 

your talking emiters and basic math, i thought we where talking about the driver.

why does 3 x 18650 draw less then 2 x 18650,s and why does 1 x 18650 draw more then 2 x 18650,s

 

as in example draw 20 amps at 15 volt through 14 awg wire it will get hot, but draw 20 amps through the same wire at 24 volt it will not get hot.

there is other examples like with 24v 4wd,s and 12v 4wd,s the diffrence in wiring and thermal fuses for extra lighting they didnt teach me in collage.

another example is voltage sag thats followed by scaling up in current draw.

Jarosf wrote:

Hi, i just realized great thing(at least for me). Thanks to buck/boost driver used in our 3T6 lights we can use 4xAA to power them. They will fit in almost perfectly(with extension tube) and due to strong springs on both sides there is almost no rattling so no modding is needed. I know that this is not for general use but as a backup in low mode it's perfect.

I did a quick measurement:

4xAA rechargeable 2500mAh total 4,82V(not fully charged)

HIGH mode 3,05A

MED mode 1,55A

LOW mode 0,34A

 

im going to try this tomorrow, it seams the lower voltage has increased the current draw 

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That example is just wrong. You probably mean for the same power transmitting across a system, a higher voltage means less current and loss within a given piece of wire with set resistance (and also less voltage drop across the wire itself), not the system as a whole. The temperature of the wire is still inherently a function of the power dissipated within it, same as the system.

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in the real world some times things differ from whats is schooled. my example was from a hobby charger main power leads.

i have a good example about the diffrence from 12v to 24v 4wd,s lighting, but its just to much for me to type are a hard days work.

ive always thought and was tought the higher the voltage or the higher the voltage can be maintained the less current draw that is needed to maintain its given requirments.

im crap with words but i think you might be getting what i mean. voltage sag might be a better example.

 

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The confusion here is between the system as a whole and the wire. The wire is only one component within the system. The wire is dropping 24v. It has a set resistance and its power dissipation is directly proportionate to the current across it. So for a system that maintains a given power usage (like our driver above, which is specifically designed to function in this way, not as a natural consequence of a trivial circuit), it does mean that slightly less power will be dissipated across the wire. However, the vast majority of the power will still be going to the emitter.

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is that TrustFire TR-3T6 3800-Lumen?

benckie
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lcbgd2008 wrote:

is that TrustFire TR-3T6 3800-Lumen?

 

Nope i dont think any of them including the dry, trustfire and the sky ray come close to 3800 lumens.

but you should know that as in your sig you have links to the same online shop.

 

looks like manafont sell a replacment driver for the TR-3T6

Triple T6 Cree Circuit Board Driver

it might work for the burnt out sky rays...

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thanks ,i know that,tow online shop have same  product,but price different。

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ive been using my TrustFire TR-3T6 heaps and it is still going strong, been using it every night just about and last night we took it on another long bush walk spotting kangaroo,s and rabbits with my daughter on high all of the time.

today i tryed it on 6 AA Duracell 2650 mAh rechargeables i had to use all the extention tubes from the TR-3T6 3 x 18650 and my TR-1200 the current draw was 2.81 amps the batteries where fully charged and where 9 volt combined.

  

next to the torch is a 30 cm or 12 inch ruler to show the extra lengh it still felt solid, i could not notice any lose of light with my eyes and the torch still worked well but is close to the lenght of a 4 or 5 D maglite ? and could be use as a base ball bat lolls

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LOL! Benckie, great stuff....

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Perfect timing! My TR-3T6 I bought myself for my birthday came this morning,  my birthday. Smile

What an awesome light! The finish is great with no nicks or blemishes. Threads are perfect and smooth. All o-rings are the right size and seal nicely. The head is really heavy and takes a while to get warm compared to my other XM-L torches.

The one thing I'm disappointed in is a lack of o-ring for the lens. Does anyone know where I can get an o-ring (preferably GTID) the proper size for it? Did anyone else have that gasket on theirs?

Output, without a second TR-3T6 to compare directly too, seems to be the same with either 2 or 3 cells. For now I'm running it with only two but I can't wait for tonight when it gets dark! 8)

Johnny

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Johnny, mine didn't come with a lens gasket either. If you find out where we can get one, let us know. Besides that, it's a great light!

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Happy B Day Johny Laughing

 

mine has a o-ring infront of the glass on the bezel and an alloy ring after the glass, then a o-ring on the head where the bezel screws onto the head and double o-rings every where else.

it is hard to see the o-ring infront of the glass as its tight but there is one there on mine, try looking hard between the bezel infront of the glass.

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