TrustFire X9 - Thoughts and beamshots

L2T grip rings fit pretty fine :

I have contacted ITC if it is possible to get the grip rings as spare part, I hope the answer is yes or I have to look for the expensive Surefire ones

(added the link to the picture, I do not quite know how to add it directly, the "how to add"-thread was not helping me much)

This is absolutely true especially if the emitter is really a T6 bin XM-L. That being said, I have experienced an enormous difference in output between a DX purchased "T6" XM-L and a U2 XM-L from lckled despite the U2 being driven at 2.2A and the "T6" at just over 3A (in a bigger host as well).

Either way, I was suggesting the U2 if building the X9 up from a bare host not as an emitter upgrade. Might as well get the highest bin if get to chose.

I have to amend this because I ran into an issue.

With the new NANJG 105C driver I didn't have enough room for protected cells. The tailcap wouldn't screw on fully and the light would come on even when the switch was off (the negative end of cell was contacting the switch retaining ring). This can be solved, but you're going to have to find a washer or two to substitute for the large white spacer in the tailcap.

Also, you'll need to trim the nub off the inside of the boot. The boot is held in by the stainless trim ring, so that needs to be unscrewed. I just used my needlenose pliers in the indents of the ring to break it loose.

Fish

I like your style. Keep up the good work.

Foy

So..if I read correctly the X9 cannot take protected 18650s after replacement of said 2.8A driver?. This has me a little confused as it seams others on here have also modded the driver and made no mention of being unable to use protected 18650. If you don't mind Mitro...would you mind explaining to me why there is a difference in clearance between the stock driver and custom driver and the extent of that difference (i.e..is the replacement thicker then the stock one, or does it have to be mounted in a different location?).

The NANJG 105C has components on the contact side of the driver which makes it necessary to have a spring (included) and it takes away at least 3mm from the space in the battery tube. Maybe some people won’t have any problems, but it was very apparent with mine once I put a Callie’s Kustoms 3100 in it.

Trustfire X9 Cree XM-L T6 1200 Lumens 5-Mode Led flashlight Kit(1*18650Batery,With Charger + 1 x 18650 Battery)

price at $53.80, i think cheaper.

I refrained from installing the NANJG 105 because on my sample it would lead to the same issues that mitro has encountered.

Waiting for good unprotected batteries in hope of avoiding body rework that NANJG would call for.

At the moment, with stock driver, I'm getting 2.05A measured from an AW 2200 (computed about 2.2A in real use), which is quite bearable. The reflector size and quality make up for the lower power. Of course, we strive for both... Wink

Will this upgrade going to be an issue using AW 2200mah and XTAR 18700 2600mah protected batteries? bought this driver to upgrade my X9 using these batteries.

OK Guys,

I am going to go ahead and order some drivers and try this:

1) Desolder the spring from the back of the driver and solder on a short wire

2) Cut out a plastic gasket/insulator the same diameter as the board and put a hole in it for the wire to go through

3) Solder the wire to a metal disk glued to the gasket. Battery + will contact the flat disk instead of a spring

What do you guys think?

I'm afraid it will, even with the AW 2200, which are the shortest protected 18650's I have. The XTAR are much longer.

The gasket the diameter of the board and the metal disk will both add their own thickness. I'd rather just dremel-cut a couple of turns off the spring, leaving only as much as needed for the battery shoulder to clear the board components (taking into account some pressure against the spring). That, IMO, would be the most space-conscious solution.

Not shure if that would be enough, though.

If the above doesn't work, a well-known solution is to remove the entire spring and replace it with a fat blob of solder thick enough for the battery to clear the components. You might need to periodically clean the tin oxide on that blob to keep the light at top performance. I have done this on another light and as far as I can tell, the oxide doesn't seem to be a problem at all.

When looking for space you will find it in the tailcap.....

Thats right, I'm going to try to trim size in the tailcap of mine.

Update: done modding the switch, waiting for my driver from kd.

Tested by using magnets to extend the length of the battery.

Does not look good as before but working.

You don't need to have the spring on the nanjk driver..I have one light that had issues with spacing and I removed the spring..the button on the top of the cell makes contact just fine with the pad of the driver..

edit:sorry..I forgot this was the one driver I had modified to drive at 1.4a..all the 7135's on the spring side have been removed to accomplish this..that's why it works without the spring..

Absolutely. No need to bother rigging something up on the driver end. Mine is working nicely on unprotected or protected cells and also with or without the lanyard ring.

All that is needed is a way to shorten up the switch assembly. As well as swapping out the spacer I mentioned above, it could be cut,filed, or sanded down to shorten it.

lcbgdboy prices at your shop are expensive. Can you sell it for $20?

I will take 1 or 2 for $20 shipped.

Let's be fair. $25.00 shipped! No pos batteries or charger...just the light. I'll take 2 if that's the case! ;)

Here are some random beam comparisons between the X9 and the Keygos KE5. The X9 is on the right in both pics.

High mode at 25'

High mode at about 18'