Since it’s not a FET, I wonder if it’d be ok to stack them, as cajampa was thinking earlier?
I would guess not, i would not stack anything other than the 7135 or resistors, boost drivers are finicky, i haven’t seen any very suspenseful attempt at modding them.
How deep is the driver compartment? check out wight new 12mm driver
At least the driver is somewhat accessible so it is still upgradeable, depending on how deep the space are.
heat up the pill before attempting to remove driver/emitter.
have you tried carefully pulling out the front o-ring, and seeing if it disassembles that way?
Hi,
By “front o-ring” do you mean the one that’s between the front of the reflector and the inside of the head? If so, that O-ring came out awhile ago, when I cracked the lens. The reflector cannot come out the front of the head, as there’s a lip there.
It also doesn’t seem to come apart at the other end of the head, where the threads are, either.
Totally puzzled at this point.
Check where the threads are, if you remove the o ring on top of the threads, i think it looks like it could possible be as seam there.
And could you measure how deep the driver area is for me, if it is at least 4,9mm deep (and maybe smaller if one shaves some components), wights 12mm FET driver could fit in there for a driver upgrade at least.
I’ll try measure the depth later today.
But, off-topic: I found the stock XP-2 light, with 1x10440 and a dummy battery is kind of crazy bright! We were out last night, doing some snow blowing, and that was the only light I had on me, and I used it light up across our entire driveway (and brightly).
Good update on the 10440 
i have some xp-2’s coming soon, i can’t wait to get them
cajampa,
I measured the depth of the driver side of the head, from the rearmost edge, it was 8.21mm
Still no progress getting the head apart though, so if anyone does figure that out, please post!!
Thanks,
Jim.
Thanks Jim, 8,12mm should be plenty to get one of wights small 12mm fet drivers in there, and i already like the tint of the stock hugsby so i think i will try to upgrade one when i got everything i need to build them.
It is weird we can’t figure out how to disassemble it.
When the lens is out of the head is it possible remove the reflector then? if so could you measure how deep & wide it is? i like the reflector in the Hugsby so i thought maybe i could use it to upgrade the reflector in the Jexree Mini.
Have you seen this AA/14500 Hugsby it got modes and is lithium ready, i will probably get one sooner or later…….
Hi,
With the lens gone/cracked/removed, “no”, I cannot remove the reflector. That part of the head is one piece, i.e., there is no ’bezel ring” to remove, so basically, the reflector (and the emitter+star) are stuck inside the head, unless I can figure out how to take the head apart.
I’m getting close to putting a hacksaw on this darn head, just to see what’s inside, if nothing else.
Re. the 14500, no I haven’t before, but I want to get this AAA/10440 modded first.
Before you saw it in half, could you try to fix it in a vice with something to protect the anodizing between and try to wrench it on the threads or maybe the other way around fix it by the threads, that is one other way had thought to try to open it when i get some new hugsbys for the sacrifice, because i am not sure even if it could work if it is even possible to do non destructively.
If that is not working maybe try heating it up before, if it is epoxied in there.
If that don’t work, then i am totally out of ideas how to get this head open, well maybe if it don’t work and you take a hacksaw to it finally, we can draw some conclusion then on how they have put this head together.
Good Luck & remember to take some pictures so we hopefully can get some leads on how to disassemble it.
Well, I was able to get the brass ring out, just grabbed it with a small pair of needle nose and pulled, and it popped out.
But, the head? No luck. I’ve tried heat, and also some BGA epoxy remover, but it just won’t come apart. At this point, I’m still not 100% sure where the head comes apart, but looking at it, it HAS to be at the driver end of the knurled area. But even knowing that, I can’t get it open, so it must have some super, super glue or something :(!!
EDIT: This shows where I think (guess) the joint is:
Ok, good to know that the brass ring isn’t glued.
On you picture i see that your bottom o ring above the threads is still on, that is where i think the joint is, if you take off the o ring you will see uneven material where the bare aluminum & anodized aluminum meet, that is where i suspect the seam with glue are.
4,7mm to 5mm down from the lower part of the knurling.
Of course I don’t actually have one of these in hand, but it’s pretty common for the anodized portion to be larger than the bare portion on a solid object. The whole light was anodized and then machining operations were done to it (eg it was turned on a lathe). This applies anywhere that you see bare aluminum.
Looks like a good guess to me. What tools have you tried so far? Strap wrenches? Wrapped vice grips? etc?
Are you willing to destroy this one “for science” since it’s taken a fair amount of damage already?
Ok, it’s done, and the joint is where I surmised. I tried to cut it to make a cross-section, but it came apart before I was done. Pics below.
I don’t think it was glued, but just really darn tight? I also don’t think it was reverse threaded, though I’m not 100% of that now.
You can see the tiny emitter board:
Hopefully these pics will help someone come up with a way to open this head up without destroying it… and if so, please post (incl pics)?
^ Wow, talk about taking one for the team. Thank you Ohaya. Anodized threads that appear well cut, nice. They do appear to be normal right-handed (clockwise) threads. There appears to be some type of substance stuck to parts of the threads in the second to last picture. Doesn't appear to be any of the typical thread lock colors though. The below table is from here.
Typical properties of thread-locking fluids [4]| Type | Typical color-code | Torque to break free | Torque to continue turning | Temperature range | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Low strength | Purple | 62 in-lb (7 N-m) | 27 in-lb (3 N-m) | −54 to 149 °C | |
| Medium strength | Blue | 115 in-lb (12 N-m) | 53 in-lb (6 N-m) | −54 to 149 °C | |
| Medium strength surface insensitive | Blue | 180 in-lb (20 N-m) | 62 in-lb (7 N-m) | −54 to 149 °C | |
| High strength | Red | 230 in-lb (25 N-m) | 225 in-lb (25 N-m) | −54 to 149 °C | |
| High temperature | Red | 180 in-lb (20 N-m) | 270 in-lb (30 N-m) | −54 to 232 °C | |
| Penetrating | Green | 90 in-lb (10 N-m) | 310 in-lb (35 N-m) | −54 to 149 °C |
Hah! Good work.
Now that we can see how the head is designed, I guess that we (anyone) has to figure out how to open it without damaging it?
So far, I’ve had no success with the others I have (I just got 2 of the XP-1s in).
Jim
On jerm03’s original thread, there was some mention that there seemed to be some difference between the stock XP-1 driver (which doesn’t work with 1x10440) vs. the stock XP-2 driver (which works with 1x10440)).
I now have several XP-1s and the one working XP-2, and looking at the driver externally, there is a visible difference, so, although I haven’t taken the driver out of the XP-1, I’m pretty sure that they have different drivers.
Here’s a pic of 2 of the XP-2 drivers (on the left) and 2 of the XP-1 drivers (on the right):
As you can see, the driver boards do look different.