looking for a good value flashlight

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akv
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looking for a good value flashlight

hello
i got few months ago skyray king 7x cree L2 (white light) and it is disappointing. even 1 cheap 18650 battery can power it to full brightness. so it’s not so powerful.
i would like to know if there is any flashlight with the a good value like the convoy c8, provides about 1000lm per 17$, but at least 3000lm?
real lumen rating with powerful drivers, not like the skyray king with many leds with no decent drivers.
thanks

pilotdog68
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So just to clarify, you’re looking for 3000 real lumens for around $50?

My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03

Major Projects:  Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver

akv
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well, if you can buy 3×1000+lm for 50$, i don’t see why 3000lm in one flashlight should cost more so yes

pilotdog68
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Does it have to be ready-to-go off the shelf, or can you do some modifications?

My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03

Major Projects:  Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver

akv
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actually at first i thought i can modify the skyray king which has good base, 4 batteries cap, 7 xm-L2, and i like its beam so if it’s easy, just to add drivers and solder them, might be an option but if you know ready to go flashlight like this, i would love to hear about both options. i also already have 6 samsung 25R
is it easy to upgrade the skyray king?

pilotdog68
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That will be the most cost-effective option, as long as your model has enough metal in it to handle the heat.

there are lots of threads about the skyray, some people have even made custom drivers for them

just search for “SRK mod”

My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03

Major Projects:  Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver

Zanders
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Supfire M6 with resistor mod.

akv
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thank you both
ok, this one is not better than the one you sent me? (which i didn’t see the current it provides)
http://www.mtnelectronics.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=67&pr...
this one will fit to my skyray king? do i require anything else except the driver?
can i get it like this?
short click:on/off, long or double click to switch modes

thank you very much for the help

pilotdog68
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The one I posted is a FET driver, so it will do as much current as your batteries can provide.

There are so many different versions of the SRK, it’s hard to know exactly what you will need to do to make it fit. Taking measurements and posting pictures could help, but someone else can give better advice. I don’t have an SRK personally.

My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03

Major Projects:  Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver

wight
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On the UI question, I recommend that you go ask RMM what’s available. (RMM owns mtnelectronics.com) AFAIK RMM normally just flashes STAR, so that would not be available, but I still recommend that you ask RMM. Tom E made something based on STAR that was closer to what you are asking for, but definitely not exactly what you are asking for. I’m actually kind of interested in the UI you described.

The FET driver is a DD driver, it will provide more current than the 32× 7135 driver. DD = Direct Drive, completely unregulated. It still has modes, but they all just based on duty cycle reduction from the highest mode.

If you’d like to better understand the different types of drivers, take a look here: lagman – Understanding the difference between Linear, Buck, Boost and Direct Drive drivers HKJ also wrote on the subject, but I can’t find the article right now.

Still fine, still on a break. One day I’ll catch up with you folks! previous wight catchup Wink
list of my drivers & variants (A17DD, FET+1 stuff, WIP stuff, etc)

wight
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Oops, I forgot to mention that increasing the current to your emitters increases the chance of damaging them while they are on the stock MCPCB / star. That board is non-DTP, switching to DTP MCPCBs such as Noctigon or SinkPAD is recommended once drive current gets past a certain point.

I think you’re probably safe with the 32× 7135 driver and 7x XM-L or XM-L2 since that’s <2A each, but I don’t know for sure since the whole assembly will be getting so hot…

Still fine, still on a break. One day I’ll catch up with you folks! previous wight catchup Wink
list of my drivers & variants (A17DD, FET+1 stuff, WIP stuff, etc)

Caleb-v
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I just put the FET driver In a 7x SRK. You just have to file off the tabs and then pop the driver in and solder it.

You can ask Richard if he can do custom filmware for you to make the modes what you want. Bu I got the standard modes am think they are good

Single short press go to moon then single short press again goes through 7 modes. Long press from off goes to turbo. You can shuffle down modes by long press release on any mode.

I have put in a big piece of copper in my head and screwed the mcpcb to it so it’s not dtp but it’s the best that I will get without buying 7 noctigons. It’s nice and bright maby 5000l

akv
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thank you all
i think i will go with the FET driver. sounds very good

Caleb-v wrote:
I just put the FET driver In a 7x SRK. You just have to file off the tabs and then pop the driver in and solder it.

You can ask Richard if he can do custom filmware for you to make the modes what you want. Bu I got the standard modes am think they are good

Single short press go to moon then single short press again goes through 7 modes. Long press from off goes to turbo. You can shuffle down modes by long press release on any mode.

I have put in a big piece of copper in my head and screwed the mcpcb to it so it’s not dtp but it’s the best that I will get without buying 7 noctigons. It’s nice and bright maby 5000l

i really don’t like those types of UI. what i want is simple as something like this:
short press: on/off
long press: increasing brightness gradually(or steps if can’t be) up to the max
press+long press decreasing gradually to the minimum
all those gradually should be pretty quick but not so fast
maybe strobe(on the same brightness) by 5 fast clicks, not necessary

too much shortcuts can be confusing and i don’t like those kind of UI that force to go though different modes just to turn it off

i will contact RWM now

LinusHofmann
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Sounds like you might like DrJones MokkaDRV

I have it in my Courui with a side switch, love the UI. Very intuitive and convenient, especially the two methods of turning on the Light which on my setup give either High with a short press or with a longer press straight into moonlight mode.

akv
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LinusHofmann wrote:
Sounds like you might like DrJones MokkaDRV

I have it in my Courui with a side switch, love the UI. Very intuitive and convenient, especially the two methods of turning on the Light which on my setup give either High with a short press or with a longer press straight into moonlight mode.


yes, close
i really like the short press to go on/off but from the last brightness
akv
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can wrote:
If your light is like in this thread I resistor modded mine as per post 2 and it now is very bright.
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/30410#node-30410

this is my light
http://s18.postimg.org/hmjdfe0xz/20150116_054651.jpg
http://s18.postimg.org/p52io0sav/20150116_054554.jpg
http://s18.postimg.org/5bv0924av/20150116_054531.jpg

however i tried to remove the red part, i was unable to screw it. it stock there.

wight
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The driver in question seems to be using a standard SO8-packaged FET. It’s not as ‘strong’ an FET as what’s used in the BLF driver RMM is offering. That’s probably a good thing, helps keep you from killing those non-DTP mounted LEDs. Since it’s a weak FET, it’s possible that it could burn with 7 emitters in parallel and 4 strong (high drain) cells. No big deal, I’m just mentioning that it’s possible. If it burned you could just replace it with a better one.

There are several methods for removing the driver from an SRK, and many, many posts on the topic. Here is one: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/24975

The driver does not unscrew. It is press-fit.

Still fine, still on a break. One day I’ll catch up with you folks! previous wight catchup Wink
list of my drivers & variants (A17DD, FET+1 stuff, WIP stuff, etc)

WarHawk-AVG
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Gotta be careful removing that red driver, I have the EXACT same SRK as the OP…the driver is glued in…ALOT!

akv
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thank you all
now a little problem, the mtnelectronics does not shipping to Israel.
so, he is the only one who sell those 46mm drivers?
i searched for FET driver, didn’t found anything like that

wight
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akv wrote:
thank you all
now a little problem, the mtnelectronics does not shipping to Israel.
so, he is the only one who sell those 46mm drivers?
i searched for FET driver, didn’t found anything like that
Did you contact RMM directly? RMM told you that he is unable to ship to Israel? That would be a surprise to me. http://mtnelectronics.com/internationalshipping.htm

You can just build one yourself. I’m sure OSH Park ships directly to Israel. That will get you the bare boards, then you can source all the parts and solder it together yourself. It’s not actually super difficult if you can solder a little.

Take a look at the Rufusbduck’s Oshpark Projects thread to see what drivers & related items forum members have shared. International shipping is free from OSH Park. “manufactured in the USA, and shipped for free to anywhere in the world”

EDIT: You should start by simply modifying your stock driver as described above. If you don’t like the UI, piggyback an ATtiny13A or whatever and get a better UI. All the info is available on BLF.

Still fine, still on a break. One day I’ll catch up with you folks! previous wight catchup Wink
list of my drivers & variants (A17DD, FET+1 stuff, WIP stuff, etc)

akv
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wight wrote:
akv wrote:
thank you all
now a little problem, the mtnelectronics does not shipping to Israel.
so, he is the only one who sell those 46mm drivers?
i searched for FET driver, didn’t found anything like that
Did you contact RMM directly? RMM told you that he is unable to ship to Israel? That would be a surprise to me. http://mtnelectronics.com/internationalshipping.htm

You can just build one yourself. I’m sure OSH Park ships directly to Israel. That will get you the bare boards, then you can source all the parts and solder it together yourself. It’s not actually super difficult if you can solder a little.

Take a look at the Rufusbduck’s Oshpark Projects thread to see what drivers & related items forum members have shared. International shipping is free from OSH Park. “manufactured in the USA, and shipped for free to anywhere in the world”

EDIT: You should start by simply modifying your stock driver as described above. If you don’t like the UI, piggyback an ATtiny13A or whatever and get a better UI. All the info is available on BLF.


Thank you!
Glad to hear. I actually contact him, still didn’t replied, i assumed no shipping to Israel since it wasn’t on the shipping options on the website
I just updated him that i need the shipping to Israel. I prefer the ready to go option for now.
Caleb-v
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RMM doesn’t list many places that he can ship to on the website but he can do shipping to other places he just has to calculate the shipping costs.

regarding Wrights post. if you want to assemble a driver you still have to flash the filmware dont you? or do the mcu come with some encryption when you purchase them from digikey?

If you unscrew the switch (lefty loosey) it will give you some access to pop out the driver. u have to poke something in there and pop out the driver. i had one almost identical and the driver was glued.

wight
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Caleb-v wrote:
[snip] if you want to assemble a driver you still have to flash the filmware dont you? [snip]
Yes, you do have to flash the firmware. The ATtiny13A comes blank, so the driver will not operate without a firmware flashed to it. Flashing hardware is $4 without a SOIC clip – you can either use wires soldered directly to the ATiny13A or you can purchase a SOIC clip for $10-30 USD.

Still fine, still on a break. One day I’ll catch up with you folks! previous wight catchup Wink
list of my drivers & variants (A17DD, FET+1 stuff, WIP stuff, etc)

wight
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akv wrote:
LinusHofmann wrote:
Sounds like you might like DrJones MokkaDRV

I have it in my Courui with a side switch, love the UI. Very intuitive and convenient, especially the two methods of turning on the Light which on my setup give either High with a short press or with a longer press straight into moonlight mode.


yes, close
i really like the short press to go on/off but from the last brightness
akv, please take a look at post #888 here. dthoang just posted a momentary firmware with a UI almost exactly like what you described!

Smile Smile Smile

Still fine, still on a break. One day I’ll catch up with you folks! previous wight catchup Wink
list of my drivers & variants (A17DD, FET+1 stuff, WIP stuff, etc)

dthoang
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wight wrote:
akv, please take a look at post #888 here. dthoang just posted a momentary firmware with a UI almost exactly like what you described!

Smile Smile Smile

I have an updated version.

http://budgetlightforum.com/node/29150?page=29#comment-712083

I made this FW especially for a 3-LED SRK that I bought cheap through eBay. I got the BLF SRK FET board from RMM.

The UI is inspired by the Olight S20 Baton. Instead of blinking modes, I added the ability to cycle down the level by double clicking from ON. In the Baton, that would switch to blink modes.

The FW uses EEPROM for the mode table, so you will need to program the EEPROM using this avrdude command line.

avrdude -p t13 -c usbasp -u -D -Uflash:w:dth_Momentary.hex:a -Ueeprom:w:dth_Momentary.eep:a -Ulfuse:w:0x75:m -Uhfuse:w:0xff:m

one year rookie

akv
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hello everyone and thank you all for the comments
i got the driver today. i pulled the stock driver out but the +/- cable was pulled out of the switch, so now i don’t know on which one is + or – on the switch. is it matters?
this is the switch behind

by the way, can i connect the LED cable directly to a full charged 18650 battery?

WarHawk-AVG
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Doesn’t matter on a momentary switch…a short is bi-directional Wink

akv
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WarHawk-AVG wrote:
Doesn’t matter on a momentary switch…a short is bi-directional Wink

ok great, thanks!
now another problem, the driver don’t fit, those 2 “wings” makes it too big. this is securitylng 7x L2 white light
RMM
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Because there are so many different SRK clones out there, with fairly large differences in dimensions, those tabs are meant to be filed down to achieve a tight fit in whatever light it goes in.  

In short: file down the tabs until you get a snug fit in your light.

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