its probably what happened here, with the three NiMH cells in parallel the current supplied might have been to high. I also use this same driver in single-AA lights with no problems at all.
I’m not familiar with the term “Forced-Boost” driver either, as i known this 7880 as a Regulated standard boost type driver. ( steps the voltage up from 1.5 to the voltage needed to drive LEDs.
I modded an old plastic incan billy light last year. The type that took a 6V lantern battery.
It's now running an XM-L and one of these drivers - powered by 8AA Eneloops in parallel for runtime.
The emitter is mounted on a PC chipset heatsink but the driver is simply sitting in place held by hot-glue.
I don't often run it at max, but perhaps I should do some spot checks on the driver temperature before leaving my latern unattended. Thanks for the warning DBSAR!
Of course not! Fortunately only one needs to fail open. Or desolder itself, or whatever. Like I said, maybe I’m wrong… but that’s where my money would be: I would bet that the driver (as a unit) would fail open rather than build up enough pressure to pop the tailcap.
How much current is running to the LED on turbo? (and how much current draw from Battery) With rough estimate of driver (in)efficiency may be enough to glow a toroid.
Are you using the same 7880 Driver ?
I believe i discovered what happened in this case, the lead wires to the LED solder points are so close it loos like heat build up caused them to short together, meaning its not a fault in the driver. (Though it would be a good idea to check how hot yours is running considering eight Eneloops in parallel can send a lot of amps into a driver.
Good find DBSAR. That appears to jive with what I found previously with the efficiency dropping as input voltage went up. Maybe it’s more along the lines of efficiency dropping as boost ratio is reduced decreases. A dead short at 0.8A on the output would more than flip the ratio on it’s head.
could be that too. ( as visible in the second photo you can see the red lead lifted up off the board (with the nearby tan-colored resistor) and contacting the black - lead.