Ah, you have to look around the threads here, there are about 3 different named models, knockoffs of the Convoy L2, I forget the thread that had it but some are still around. It is more expensive, but around $45-50 when I looked, Yetzl is about $30+10 so $40 I think, and its much inferior in quality, I really wanted to like it, but was disappointed.
Where is the resistor mod thread though? Mine needs it, then maybe I’ll have a Yetzl green-yellow pea soup lazer Its still noisy and not even water resistant though, I can’t believe they didn’t even fit the lens to the light before selling it…
Hmmmmm…… yeah I like the look of the Lustfire but Amazon was the first seller I saw as well (and in the $100 range). A couple other places like Alibaba and Tmart had better prices but said discontinued.
*EDIT OK now that ^ is out of stock?!? I’m sorry it is looking like all the clones are sold out, the Banggood Dipper clone is also sold out, so is the Wallbuys clone. Looks like there is a run on the Convoy L2 clones around…
If you like the look of the Convoy L4 its also much better quality control than the Yetzl Y3 or the Smallsun ZY-T08 ( have 2 of those too). Most Convoys have good quality standards. But, if you get a Smallsun ZY-T08 modified increased output and user interface by Richard of Mountain Electronics, its going to blow all these lights away…
… rather than attempting to find where I’ve explained it before, we’ll just go through it again:
Find the sense resistors. The Y3 uses two resistors in parallel, a normal setup. In this case it’s R180 and R150. The R is a decimal point, those resistors are 0.18 ohm and 0.15 ohm respectively.
Determine the total (net) sense resistance. Use an online parallel resistor calc to see what the total is. PARALLEL RESISTOR CALCULATOR We can easily see that the total is about 0.08 ohms.
Measure the output current (current to the LED). This should be around 3 amps with the stock driver and 2s or more.
Determine the sense voltage: Punch current and resistance into an online ohms law calculator or just multiply the net resistance and the measured current together… 3 * 0.08 = 0.24v
(Or skip those steps because we already know the sense voltage is in the 0.24v to 0.26v range due to it being a QX9920 buck controller. )
Determine the new net resistance we need: Now we know sense voltage and we know your desired current (say 4.0 A), we clear our ohms law calculator and punch in the desired current along with the sense voltage… or we just divide the sense voltage by the desired current. I’m going to use 0.25v here because that’s about right: 0.25 / 4.0 = 0.0625 ohms
Go back to your parallel resistor calculator and see what you need to put in parallel to achieve that resistance.
Tks wight. I think I lost interest in modding it after my Y3 showed up bedraggled and limping, then I had better lights arrive and I put it aside. Maybe I’ll try it soon with this simple info. I’ll need to buy a lens that actually fits before attempting to mod so I can actually use it in the prevalent rain though, the one they shipped it with is slightly smaller diameter and loose. Then I have to change out the emitter and driver for an MTG2 and get rid of the pea soup color…
Yes I’d rather have a M6 modded, I was just indicating a Smallsun ZY-T08 someone brought up doesnt have to be a bad selection if modded, M6 is just much further off the single emitter mark…
Well then if we are going there, I’ll go for a modded J12, J18, or J20 and 7,000 lumens instead!
As for the lens issue, yes, its so bad with so much motion it clinks while using it constantly. I call it my noisy pea soup light. CW lights make it look green and warm, the X6’s 3C NW beam color looks to be a nice 4C tint next to the Y3 (which looks white with green shift vs it), while the X6 NW is slightly white greenish vs my real 4C tint C8.
I have (2) Y3’s modded with the MT-G2. I’m running RMM’s 17mm QLite Zener Mod on one for 6.2amps measured at the tail cap, made my own adapter 17mm to 23mm, put the MCPCB on 2mm copper ,with a 120 second Turbo and man it gets HOT! HOT!!! But do able!! Now the other is built the same way “EXCEPT” with RMM’s 22MMFETDD/ZENERMOD, it needs a 60 second Turbo or even 30 second Turbo, whoa this thing is BLAZING SCARY HOT at 120 seconds!!! Just saying……
Both were loose at first, I used .032” solder and made a ring out of it and put it between the bezel ring and glass, and slowly tightened and loosen till flat, worked out well. Then I found some 2mm black oring’s to replace the GITD ones. I have used in the past and it’s still on my SRK the wax paper card board that’s on the bottom of Hostess Sno Ball’s, I traced the O.D. and cut it out, screwed the bezel on and cut the I.D. out using a razor knife and the inside of the ring as a guide. Still there and seals well too? Hard to find the SRK o-ring’s at 2.5mm cause 3mm wouldn’t let the bezel ring screw down?
Stock tint was greenish, alignment meh big plastic piece that covered the MCPCB board and tried to center the over sized emitter hole, so not that well, I’m mean you could knock it around a bit, but it wasn’t repeatable if you kept loosening the head?
I have been looking for 3x18650 3S also because I think that to drive a MT-G2 well one needs the extra voltage. As such I just learned that the Courui D01 is 3P and so was dropped from my list but as it is 3P runtime should be quite good.